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Old 09-13-2021, 07:37 PM   #1
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Trailer: 1973 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 93
Unhappy Uh oh!

Just got home from a wonderful weekend at the Algonac Egg Scramble. Three blocks from home, this happened:
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Old 09-13-2021, 07:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricia Baxter View Post
Just got home from a wonderful weekend at the Algonac Egg Scramble. Three blocks from home, this happened:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...QaJanaGSoKNV8v
Ooops, can't see the pic
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Old 09-14-2021, 06:51 AM   #3
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Name: Joel
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Glad that didn't happen at Highway speed.
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:08 AM   #4
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Name: Jim
Trailer: 2020 Casita Freedom Deluxe
Texas
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Yes, that is a bad thing to happen. You still need to think positive and be thankful that as jeepers29 mentioned, it didn’t happen at highway speeds and a long way from home.
Glad you are safe above all.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:10 AM   #5
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
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Patricia, Just a wild guess, but the last three digits of your serial number are likely between 600 and 650. Am I right?

From your pictures, it looks like you have what I call a C-channel frame, as opposed to a square tube frame.

More pictures please, specifically from the opposite side from the breaks, and as many shots of the frame as possible please.

For now, I suggest jacking up under the breaks; use a block of wood to spread the load out. This is to prevent damage to the shell of the trailer from the tongue pushing through.
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Old 09-14-2021, 01:17 PM   #6
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Trailer: 1973 Trillium 13 ft
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Hi David. Put blocks under the breaks already. I have never been able to find a serial number. I will take some more pictures soon. Thanks for your help!
Dale
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Old 09-14-2021, 01:57 PM   #7
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricia Baxter View Post
Hi David. Put blocks under the breaks already. I have never been able to find a serial number. I will take some more pictures soon. Thanks for your help!
Dale
Dale, In that age range the serial numbers are fairly simple. It should look like this: 13-XXX, where XXX is the sequential build number. It would have orignally been on a data sheet, on the inside of your closet door. Your trailer's serial number should be on the registration.

I am interested in your trailer, since I have a 1972, (13-609) that has the frame style I think yours has. I purchased a spare frame, thinking that the frame the trailer came with was a previous owner, (PO) modification. However, on the :
Serial Numbers on a Trillium list there are two others, 13-614 and 13-645. I can't tell if 13-653 has the same frame.:

It was 13-609 that made me start that list. The guy who sold it to me had it registered as a 1979. I knew that was wrong.

I would still love to see detailed pictures of your frame.

Where are you located? Outback / Trillium in Calgary can provide you with a brand new frame.

On Edit: I looked at the thread where you purchased your Trillium. That is not the same frame as 13-609. However, it is also not the same as any frame I have ever seen on a Trillium. More and more curious.
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Old 09-15-2021, 03:21 AM   #8
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David, the serial number is 13649, according to the registration. We are in Grand Rapids, Michigan. I hope to post pictures tonight.
Dale
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Old 09-15-2021, 08:11 AM   #9
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Dale, So, 13-649. Still in the range expected, but yet another frame design. In the early years Trillium experimented with several designs. The frame that I call a C-channel frame is in fact several pieces of bent plate welded together. The tongue still bends up as it comes out from below the coach. Yours appears to come straight out from below the coach.

I see that it has reinforcement plates, just in the wrong place.
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Old 09-15-2021, 05:54 PM   #10
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Hi David,
Here are the requested pictures. The middle section of the frame is, indeed, C-channel. The previous owner had the tongue and rear section replaced with (mostly) box beam. The straight tongue sometimes causes ground clearance issues; I'm not sure of the reason for that mod.
The breaks are right at the junction of the box-to-C, also adjacent to a crossmember. Go figure (sarcasm).
If you're interested in buying the trailer, or selling your spare frame, let's take this offline. My e-mail is baxtercpm@comcast.net. At this point, we're reviewing options, but we don't yet know all of them.
Thanks again for your help.
Dale
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Old 09-15-2021, 05:57 PM   #11
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More:
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Old 09-18-2021, 10:34 AM   #12
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Name: Stephen
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Tennessee
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Exclamation Not Surprising

Pat,

Here is my unpleasant reality check. All posters pointing out how lucky you were not to have suffered the failure at highway speeds are spot on. The reason might not be what you expect. If that failure had caused an accident that harmed other people you could have been sued for your entire net worth. Nearly all stock small trailers are not strong enough to operate on anything other than improved roads. Obviously, you or a previous owner has over-stressed the frame - the prima facie failure cause. But a careful inspection of your excellent pictures shows that the frame rusted FROM THE INSIDE OUT. This is inevitable with open frames. Here are solutions: Always have your trailer inspected by a CERTIFIED inspection station ANNUALLY and have them provide a certificate of roadworthiness that transfers liability to them. NEVER operate on unimproved roads to avoid causing hidden damage that can result in failure years later. Upgrade the frame to one designed for your type of use which obviously exceeds the capability of your trailer.
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Old 09-18-2021, 11:44 AM   #13
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Name: Rob
Trailer: 1971 Boler 1300
British Columbia
Posts: 20
Uh Oh

It appears as if your poor frame has run it's course, time for a new one. When the metal gets to this point all the patching in the world won't make it safe again, there is lots of unseen rust and metal fatigue sneaking around in there.
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Old 09-18-2021, 12:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen_Albers View Post
But a careful inspection of your excellent pictures shows that the frame rusted FROM THE INSIDE OUT. This is inevitable with open frames.
Another solution is buy a Lil Snoozy or Snoozy II with a hot-dipped galvanized frame that won't rust out from the inside.
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Old 09-18-2021, 09:19 PM   #15
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Is lil Snoozy back in business? Did they make things right with the people who lost their deposits?
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Old 09-18-2021, 09:41 PM   #16
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Looking at that crack it looks like it was broken for a long time from the rusted edges. Buy a galvanized boat trailer or aluminum and make up an interface. Or find a welder that can make a new trailer frame. Or maybe the new Trillium trailers might fit. Never seen one with the straight out design. Full boxed tube frame would be stronger. Just another project. You can do it.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:28 AM   #17
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Name: Douglas
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Is lil Snoozy back in business? Did they make things right with the people who lost their deposits?
That's off topic, but Snoozy II is now making them again. A completely different company with some significant upgrades. There are a bunch of posts about how that all happened so you can check it out.

More on topic, Snoozy II has a Hunter model, or something like that, that uses a spring-over setup with the axle for increased clearance. It reportedly has some changes to the frame to accommodate the different spring/axle arrangement.
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Old 09-19-2021, 12:15 PM   #18
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Dale, Thanks for the pictures. There are other differences between your frame and what I call a C-channel frame. The biggest is that the swing arms on your axle are rear pointing. The ones on my C-channel frame point forward, like many Bolers.
A new frame and your trailer will be back on the road. Maybe give Trillium / Outback a call and get a quote for one:
https://trilliumtrailers.com/
They make them in steel, galvanized steel and aluminum.
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Old 09-20-2021, 12:58 PM   #19
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Thanks, David. A new frame seems like the most logical choice.
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Old 09-20-2021, 03:55 PM   #20
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Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
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Originally Posted by Patricia Baxter View Post
Thanks, David. A new frame seems like the most logical choice.
On the road one might see if a mobile welder could repair the frame to allow completing the trip but given the age and high probability for hidden cracks at welds or at stress points it seems more practical to do as you say and replace the frame.

One might be tempted to go for the highest quality available but it is worth considering how long the simple open frame that is there lasted before deciding how far one has to upgrade.

Tube frame for greater strength might be a nice improvement if one likes to boondock or rustic camp. But again if the camper has done decades of that sort of camping already with the frame it came with.... it makes a good argument for moderation in that impulse to go with the tubular titanium epoxy coated frame :-)

Might be worth considering a rear hitch mount for ability to put a rack/basket on the rear. Most of our small FGRV's don't have the structural strength to add a rear rack without some additional bracing. New frame gives you a chance to build with that in mind if that rear hitch receiver would suit your needs.

A slightly extended tongue if you would like to gain some additional room on tongue for a second battery or storage box. Have seen some nice mods done to add storage, spare tire, bike carriers, etc. to existing tongues. Starting from scratch you might have some nice options there.

Could possibly shift the height up a bit for a touch more clearance at the skirt. Although that could be a two edged sword in terms of drag and handling. Still scuffing the rear skirt or front edge is a concern on steep drives and sharp road dips so might be a design consideration.

Number one glad no one was hurt, or stranded. I hope camper or contents didn't sustain any additional damage. Hopefully it will all work out to yield an opportunity to refresh your camper with possibly some additional amenities or features you desire.
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