Uhaul Side Windows - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-05-2010, 05:39 AM   #21
Member
 
Name: Marty
Trailer: 85 U-Haul CT
Ohio
Posts: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bridget T View Post
So here are the photos of the finished window frames! Glass slides snugly but not too tight.

I still have to get the windows back in the fiberglass (which does not sound fun - but I'm sure it can be managed). Here is a shot comparing the old two piece gasket with the new two piece - looks like a perfect match to me.

Ok - time for a beer.

Bridget
Bridget,

What a fantastic post! I just had a new Dexter running gear with brakes installed, and I'm now at the point of wanting to repair or replace all of my windows. You make it sound so easy. Maybe you would want a part time job? Thanks for helping those of us who don't have a clue.

Marty D.
Marty D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2010, 09:31 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Bridget T's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT13 ft ('The Mothball')
Posts: 102
Weeping channel description

Ok,
So after reading Matt's suggestion I did see what water did to each window. Not a huge difference in this test really between the windows but I did see that the inside of the felt can get quite wet.
So after thinking it over, and I cannot believe I am writing this, but I decided to take apart my second window again and cut the felt for the weeping channels on this one too.
For those of you who are wondering what we are talking about I have tried to take some pictures to help you picture it. If you look at the outside shot from the Uhaul manual picture you can see little holes in the bottom of the frame - which apparently used to have little covers as shown by parts 5&6 on this drawing.
There are actually 4 of these on my windows, and inside the metal that separates the two channels also has holes to match up. I have tried to show this by putting a bit of white cloth where the felt goes in one picture. These holes are supposed to allow water to drain out but when you put in the new rubber felt there is no way for water to get out of the inside of the felt unless you cut a hole.
Basically what I did was take my finished window, mark with an exacto knife through the two weeping channels into the felt [I think if your windows are in you could just do this to give a slit for the water to get out]. Then I took my windows apart (!) pulled out the whole bottom felt, cleaned up the rivet backs, and cut the felt as shown to have drain holes. I also pulled out as much of the top felt as I need to get the backs of the rivets out from up there.
Then I put it all back together - spending the majority of time getting the felt in place with my butter knife technique.
The whole procedure took 1hr.

Bridget
Attached Thumbnails
window outside view.png   felt cut for weeping channel.jpg  

marking felt through weeping channels.jpg   weeping channel.jpg  

Bridget T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2010, 06:57 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Matt in SV's Avatar
 
Name: Matt
Trailer: U-Haul VT16, Escape 19
California
Posts: 987
Registry
I did find some weep hole covers online. Actually I think there were two different sizes. This one looks promising. They go upside down from this photo unless you want to channel water in

Hehr Weep Hole Covers- Black: eBay Motors (item 290268061572 end time Aug-06-10 16:53:58 PDT)

These swissco parts are cheaper and I think the dimensions are close, but they're white

SWISCO.com: Weep Hole Cover : 26-216

a couple different sizes Hehr: (here )

https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=3050
https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=5515

I did not check these dimensions out in any detail, but they LOOK similar

Regards,

Matt
__________________
Planning our next Escape!
Matt in SV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2010, 05:02 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Bridget T's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT13 ft ('The Mothball')
Posts: 102
So we got the windows in! The two part gasket piece worked perfectly.

After my initial cleaning I did a last minute clean of the fiberglass window hole with acetone. This worked really well, but be careful, I got a little on my emergency exit sticker and it took some of the paint off! (Well, it is nail polish remover, what did I expect?).

Then I fit the gasket around the fiberglass window hole, pressing it into the corners. When I felt it was pressed in the corners as well as possible I cut it off, with about a centimeter extra. Then I forced this to fit - you want the two cut pieces to have pressure against each other to make a good seal.
Then the window got put in. This actually worked better than I expected, mostly due to the horror stories I had read here! The locking gasket tool was very helpful for this part of the job. It was a good shape to press the window into the gasket. You definitely need two people for this, one working on the inside and the other on the outside helping to press the rubber gasket inwards to help and making sure that the window doesn't pop out in the corners. Having the outside person push the gasket inwards with a butter knife helps too.

Once the outer gasket is in then the lock strip has to be put in place. We used very soapy water for lubrication which we applied with a turkey baster that has a very sharp end.
As you can imagine this procedure lead to some hilarity over the instructions being given. 'More lube!' 'Press it there' etc....
All joking aside it was a tight fit and did cause some back strain. (Hmmm that still sounds funny!)

The lock strip tool was amazing. Note that putting the emergency pull tab back in place means you need to start the lock strip tool on either side of it - it is held in place by the locking part of the gasket coming out through it.

Again when you get all the locking gasket in place and need to cut it make a little longer and force it into place.

Ah, all done! (for one window!)
Bridget
Attached Thumbnails
gasket in place.jpg   gasket part way in.jpg  

putting emerg tab on lock gasket.jpg   lock strip around emerg tab.jpg  

emerg tab in place.jpg   emerg window done.jpg  

Bridget T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2010, 07:39 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
Bridget T's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT13 ft ('The Mothball')
Posts: 102
I was asked about the size that the fiberglass window hole on the side window in the CT13. I did not measure this before putting the window in but by pushing my gasket aside a little I could see where the edge sat on the finished window. The estimate (and it is a good one) is 24 5/8" wide by 19 1/4" high.
Bridget
Bridget T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2010, 10:03 AM   #26
Member
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: 13 ft U-Haul
Ohio
Posts: 53
Great posts Bridget!!! Those pics will help a bunch, the only way it would be easier is if you would come to Ohio and do it for me!!! LOL THANKS. RICK
RICK H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2010, 03:33 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Bridget T's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT13 ft ('The Mothball')
Posts: 102
Ha! I think I will decline your generous offer. You'll have to settle for the other half of the gasket I ordered.
A few days not thinking about windows would be great. However, I have started learning about all the electrical components.....
Bridget

Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK H. View Post
Great posts Bridget!!! Those pics will help a bunch, the only way it would be easier is if you would come to Ohio and do it for me!!! LOL THANKS. RICK
Bridget T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 09:13 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
Bridget T's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT13 ft ('The Mothball')
Posts: 102
Weeping hole covers

I measured my weeping holes and they 3/4" long and 1/4" high.

So, naturally as I am apparently obsessed with doing anything I can to make my windows leakproof, I called Pallendent about the weeping hole covers that Matt found online. A very nice person there got the products and measured them for me. I am unclear as to whether her measurements were for the whole item, or for the hole it would fit into - either way these are way too large.
As per her measurements, item H110-444 is '2" long and 5/8" wide', item H110 06620 is '2" long and 1/4'" wide' and item KWHC is no longer available.
The Ebay ones are also listed as 2" and 5/8".
The Swissco is the closest: it fits in a hole that is 1" in length and 1/4" high.

I liked the one suggestion someone made about using bits of nylon stockings stuck in the holes when it rained which wicked the water out of the channels.

Bridget



Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt in SV View Post
I did find some weep hole covers online. Actually I think there were two different sizes. This one looks promising. They go upside down from this photo unless you want to channel water in

Hehr Weep Hole Covers- Black: eBay Motors (item 290268061572 end time Aug-06-10 16:53:58 PDT)

These swissco parts are cheaper and I think the dimensions are close, but they're white

SWISCO.com: Weep Hole Cover : 26-216

a couple different sizes Hehr: (here )

https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=3050
https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=5515

I did not check these dimensions out in any detail, but they LOOK similar

Regards,

Matt
Attached Thumbnails
weeping channel length.jpg   weeping channel height.jpg  

Bridget T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 11:20 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
Bruce Thomas's Avatar
 
Name: Bruce T
Trailer: Hunter compact jr
Indiana
Posts: 778
Registry
this is an excellent thread.....nothing explains like pictures
Bruce Thomas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 01:33 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Pat C's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1981 Boler 13 ft / 2005 Dodge Caravan
Posts: 168
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bridget T View Post
So here are the photos of the finished window frames! Glass slides snugly but not too tight.

I still have to get the windows back in the fiberglass (which does not sound fun - but I'm sure it can be managed). Here is a shot comparing the old two piece gasket with the new two piece - looks like a perfect match to me.

Ok - time for a beer.

Bridget
Wow great post.My back sliding window in the Boler needs a new rubber slide chanel.Have been putting it off cause its something I'm afraid of really screwing up.Your directions are clear and the pictures sure help.Maybe its not going to be as scary as I thought.Thanks for sharing and enjoy that beer,you earned it.
Pat C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 01:06 PM   #31
Junior Member
 
Trailer: U-Haul CT13
Posts: 7
uhaul side window

Great job!
GRMeyers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2010, 06:45 AM   #32
Member
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: 13 ft U-Haul
Ohio
Posts: 53
Bridget, the wife and I put the door window in on sunday, what a pain!! Did you start with the window on the inside then work the seal in over the window? Started putting locking seal in and ran out of daylight, so need to finish today.
RICK H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2010, 05:33 AM   #33
Senior Member
 
Bridget T's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT13 ft ('The Mothball')
Posts: 102
Hey Rick,
The door window is the only one I haven't tackled. Mine actually doesn't leak.
When I did the side windows I put the seal around the window opening then pushed the window into the bottom of the seal from the inside and slowly eased the window into the seal bit by bit.
It was a very slow process and a tight fit for the side windows. I imagine it would be a little tougher with the small door window.
I found the tool for putting the two piece gasket together really handy for pushing the edge of the window into the gasket and slowly easing the gasket around the window edge bit by bit. Again this is a battle won centimeter by centimeter. (I guess that would be about 1/2 inches for you!)
Good luck,
Bridget

Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK H. View Post
Bridget, the wife and I put the door window in on sunday, what a pain!! Did you start with the window on the inside then work the seal in over the window? Started putting locking seal in and ran out of daylight, so need to finish today.
Bridget T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2010, 06:38 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Name: Pat
Trailer: U-Haul CT13 ('Pearl')
SW Ohio
Posts: 174
You give me hope that I can fix my windows!
Pat B Ohio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 05:05 PM   #35
Member
 
Name: pat
Trailer: uhaul 13
nj
Posts: 84
excellent thread & write up....I'll be tackling this very soon....
goosler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 07:43 PM   #36
Junior Member
 
Name: Albert
Trailer: U-Haul
Massachusetts
Posts: 6
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK H. View Post
Anyone know where to get this rubber channel?
I replaced the felt chanels on my u-haul and had to buy 100 ft roll so I have 70 or so ft left let me know if you are still looking for it. I had to bring a sample to a rv place and I was lucky on the 4th or fifth place to find some one who took the time to find it. I did not take out the windows.
slateman1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2011, 04:15 AM   #37
Senior Member
 
Bruce Thomas's Avatar
 
Name: Bruce T
Trailer: Hunter compact jr
Indiana
Posts: 778
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by slateman1 View Post
I replaced the felt chanels on my u-haul and had to buy 100 ft roll so I have 70 or so ft left let me know if you are still looking for it. I had to bring a sample to a rv place and I was lucky on the 4th or fifth place to find some one who took the time to find it. I did not take out the windows.
how were you able to install the channel without removing the window? and where's westfield? Mass?
Bruce Thomas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2011, 09:43 AM   #38
Junior Member
 
Name: Albert
Trailer: U-Haul
Massachusetts
Posts: 6
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Thomas View Post
how were you able to install the channel without removing the window? and where's westfield? Mass?
I will try to explain how I replaced the sliding window gasket. I did this 3 years ago so I am trying to replay it in my head. I first removed the inside screen by drilling out the old pop rivets make sure to use a 9/64 bit because you will need to install new rivets at the end. I left the glass open and lifted the gasket carefully out to make sure it was loose (you will need the old one to mark the drain holes) than pushed it back into place than I closed the glass and worked the top and bottom loose. I worked the top first by moving the glass back than sliding the gasket forward a little at a time using the glass to help hold the gasket I moved the glass back. I fond once the top was out the bottom was easy because of the extra room created by the top being out clean the area with a flat screw driver to remove all old glue and dust.IT HAS TO BE FREE OF ALL DIRT. Once the gasket is out lay it next to the new material and cut a new peace the exact same length you will need a pair of tin snips because there is steel in the new gasket. I than used a whiteout marker to mark the holes. I than carefully drilled a inch hole and cut out the drain hole being careful not to cut to high and cause a break that might snag the glass. I than reinstalled the gasket by sliding the top in up to the rear stop and worked the gasket around till I got to the bottom moving the glass back and forth to help slide the gasket into place after I was satisfied it was a real good fit I first glued the rear top and bottom than left the glass open to hold the tract in place till the glue was set (overnight) than I did the front the best I could. I did not use a ton of adhesive. I did not want a mess and the windows are closed most of the time so the gasket stays in place. The rear window was a lot harder because of the length. I had to remove the rubber stop I ended up cutting the top inside tract and bending it up so I could remove the glass than cut the new one as above and installed the bottom first and than the front, put the glass back in and worked the gasket back in place glued it and VERRY CARFULY I bent the cut tract back into place.The curtons hide the cut area I needed to do the rear this way because my window binds as I open it (not 100% squire) if yours opens and closes easy you could do it the same as the side glass. You will need to take your time and not rush doing it the way I did. It worked for me that’s not to say it can be done by everyone. After all is dry MAKE SURE THE DRAINS ARE OPEN AND CLEAR I used an adhesive caulk (not a water base one and not liquid nails) a good exterior silicone adhesive clear caulk will do fine and remember you dont need alot.I only put it on the flat bottom part of the gasket Westfield is just north of Springfield Ma. Hope this helps. There may be a point where you have to wing it but I did it so I know it can be done and they no longer leak. By the way the door window is done the same way. I would play with a sample first to get used to drilling and cutting the new stuff. I forgot to tell you on the rear window I removed the inside frame (hex head screws)
slateman1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2011, 04:14 PM   #39
Junior Member
 
Name: James
Trailer: uhaul 13
Wisconsin
Posts: 26
Getting ready to order the parts for the window repair. How much of the AS-1268 do i need? The two side windows and the door.

Thanks, Daman
daman4799 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 07:52 AM   #40
Junior Member
 
Name: Albert
Trailer: U-Haul
Massachusetts
Posts: 6
Registry
Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by daman4799 View Post
Getting ready to order the parts for the window repair. How much of the AS-1268 do i need? The two side windows and the door.

Thanks, Daman
When I did my window I went to a lot of camper dealers and finely found one who took the time to measure the piece I had and than look it up. He found Universal Single flex glass channel 7/16 x 3/8 to fit so I ordered it but I could only get it in a 100 roll. I have over 75 if you need some let me know. As far as the amount you need I will assume your camper is set up the same as mine and the windows are the same size. The sides take close to 5 each and the door is close to 4 for a total of 14 if you have a U-Haul this should be right. Sorry to take so long to get back to you but I had a lot of trouble logging in.
slateman1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
u-haul, uhaul, windows


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Uhaul 13' windows -- repair or replace? Julia O. Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 32 04-26-2009 02:46 PM
2000 Watt Yamaha vs Honda side by side Larry Harmon General Chat 13 03-05-2009 09:00 AM
Side windows for Boler wanted CliveAlive Classified Archives 4 11-24-2008 10:01 AM
Boler Side Windows Kevin M Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 08-05-2008 09:02 PM
Removing Side windows on 70's Boler Kurt in BC Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 06-04-2006 03:56 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.