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Old 05-19-2011, 09:51 AM   #41
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ups just delivered all my new weather stripping.....hopefully I'll pop out the windows on saturday morning & give this a whirl!
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:36 PM   #42
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I've just finished rebuilding my UHaul windows but have not installed them yet. I wanted to document a few things to help others in the future.

Incidentally, I chuckled when I read about using the butter knife as I have a nice, complete set of tools. But to hedge my bets I picked up two for $1 at the Dollar store. They turned out to be the perfect tool for installing the channel liner. The handle presses down the center strip and the rounded blade tucks in the lip.

Materials needed:

Side windows (each window):
82" of the locking outer seal 75000473
82" of the locking strip 75000687
64" of the channel liner 75000639
18" of pile divider bar seal CR Laurence A11430B

Rear window:
103" of the channel liner 75000639
Butyl tape holds it in
18" of pile divider bar seal CR Laurence A11430B

Door Window:
64" of the locking outer seal 75000473
64" of the locking strip 75000687
50" of the channel liner 75000639
18" of pile divider bar seal CR Laurence A11430B

Initially I completely disassembled the rear window, but found that it is not really necessary to remove the fixed glass on any of the windows. You can scrape out the old channel, dirt and old glue and slide the new channel down the sides of the moveable pane. It helps to use the glass to grip the channel liner as you slide it - move the glass back and forth. Use soapy water to help the channel liner move. Tuck in the side "lips" thoroughly once its is in place, especially in the corners.

One tip - the screws that hold the frame together tend to be rusted in. You don't want to break these off or strip the Philips head. Squirt them with penetrating oil, heat the aluminum frame with a heat gun or hair dryer, try tightening as well as loosening the screws to break them free. If the screwdriver wants to slip, get a little tube of valve grinding compound (auto parts store) and put it on the screwdriver tip. It makes it grip like crazy.

First picture is of outer seal and channel liner. Second picture is the pile seal on the vertical divider between the panes.
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UHaul Window seals-page-001.jpg   A11430B_Divider Bar Seal.jpg  

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Old 02-10-2012, 04:28 PM   #43
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Very nice post.
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:08 PM   #44
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I finally reinstalled my UHaul windows having rebuilt them earlier.

There is a nice tool to install the locking strip in the outer weather strip, but I was too cheap to spend $20 or so for it. I went to the Dollar Tree and bought a two screwdriver set for $1. I knew it would be soft steel so I chopped off the end, bent it as shown and ground it a little flatter. I removed all vice marks with a little steel file and some sand paper so it wouldn't cut the rubber. It worked super slick. The way to use it is to insert one end of the locking strip in the slot, then work away from that end with the nose of the tool leading as you part the rubber strip. Use lots of liquid soap.

Pictures: professional tool, my tool, tip closeup.
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Weatherstrip Tool Picture-page-001.jpg   IMG_3551.JPG  

IMG_3558.JPG  
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:05 PM   #45
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Smile

Beautiful job, very nice tool!
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:53 PM   #46
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OK, Thomas,

You just undid Donna D's work ! She just put Bridgette's information into a pdf in the documents section. Now, it is out of date!!

Nice job!

CindyL
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:02 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by CindyL View Post
OK, Thomas,

You just undid Donna D's work ! She just put Bridgette's information into a pdf in the documents section. Now, it is out of date!!

Nice job!

CindyL

I know. I did it just to mess with her...



Incidentally, after I got my rear window installed I realized that the RV dealer had sold me putty when I asked for butyl caulk. I got the right stuff today. It is lighter in color, smoother and when pulled, forms into a very thin string like chewing gum. The rolls don't seem to be marked well - just packaged in waxed paper and cardboard with no labeling. There is a big difference in stickiness.
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:37 PM   #48
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Are you coming to the fish fry in Indiana in May, Thomas? I just think I would like to put a face to the sense of humor and creative suggestions you share.

I have for two years been cranking around the idea of hosting a rally myself. If you can't make the fry, maybe I will get in gear next summer and find a site in northern IL, eastern IA or southern WI.

CindyL
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:43 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by CindyL View Post
Are you coming to the fish fry in Indiana in May, Thomas? I just think I would like to put a face to the sense of humor and creative suggestions you share.

I have for two years been cranking around the idea of hosting a rally myself. If you can't make the fry, maybe I will get in gear next summer and find a site in northern IL, eastern IA or southern WI.

CindyL
Sorry, the DW still is toiling in the salt mines, thus has to work until late June. I'd love to go to a rally and meet you fine folks sometime, though.
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:12 PM   #50
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I hear you. We both work too, so we can only go to weekend rallies. We expect that since Social Security may not be around when we retire that we will be in this situation forever, weekend campers. Guess we sleep in the camper on the parking pad

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Old 03-15-2012, 06:19 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
I know. I did it just to mess with her...
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:13 PM   #52
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UPDATE:

After rebuilding my UHaul windows I am still getting a small leak. From inside I can see that water is over topping the U channel at the bottom. I think that the issue is that when I cut the little windows in the U channel, I cut out the side but not the bottom. So, I carefully pulled the channel up and used an Exacto knife to cut the bottom of the U channel out to allow more drainage.

The way these windows work is that the fuzzy stuff on the U channel seals loosely to the glass but some water leaks past into the aluminum channel. The rectangular holes are supposed to drain the water out of the channel faster than it leaks in. If the water doesn't leak out the rectangular holes fast enough, it overflows into the inside. I also found a family of tiny worms living in one drain hole.

Additionally, I did not caulk the outer locking rubber weather strip when I installed it, but it made me uneasy because it seems like it would be easy for it not to seal the top surface completely. So, today I pulled it away from the body gently with a plastic interior trim removal tool and carelessly fed in thin strips of butyl caulk, then pressed it back in place. The UHaul repair manual suggests caulking this same area (though with silicone ), so I'm assuming it is a known weakness.

Trim removal tools I used were similar to these, key is plastic to not scratch the gelcoat. 5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:38 PM   #53
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Just got our finish today. Add some tip from a windows installer.

I have use silycone spray to get everithing in place. It went more than since I was able to do the each side and the door in less than an hours. I started with soapy water but was not easy.

I also used a strip lock tool that I could rent for free at my local car window repear shop.

I still have some water infiltration. I did replace do brand new every part of the windows.

Tom dis you figure what to do to get a 100% lrak proof windows?

Does anybody as some kind of tip in what to do for a leakproof job?


Thanks

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Strip lock tool
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:40 PM   #54
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Does anybody as some kind of tip in what to do for a leakproof job?
It depends on where it's leaking...
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:49 PM   #55
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Quote:
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..........

Tom dis you figure what to do to get a 100% leak proof windows?

Does anybody as some kind of tip in what to do for a leakproof job?


Thanks
Did you cut the drain holes in the U channel? That is very important.
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:29 AM   #56
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TOM: I just cut every channel and it seem to help a lot. Will have to remove one windows and reposition the seal joint. I have tryed to put it on the bottom but it seems a lot better on the side. I also add in the joint some butyl tape to make sure the area is leak proof and it does work.

You are right about the importance of the draining chanel.

By the way, I saw that you did put a gaz fridge. To you have some pics about your side wall mounth. this is the project I will be working on this WE.


thanks

Fred
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:43 AM   #57
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...............
By the way, I saw that you did put a gas fridge. To you have some pics about your side wall mouth. this is the project I will be working on this WE.


thanks

Fred
Fred, I posted a few pictures of the refrigerator installation process including the open vent holes in this thread: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post311720

I'd be glad to answer any other questions about the installation.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:40 AM   #58
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UPDATE:

I finally got my side windows to quit leaking. First I rolled a thin cylinder of butyl putty under the rubber on the outside edge to seal the rubber to the fiberglass, but still had a small leak.

I attempted to do the same thing between the rubber and the aluminum frame, but the rubber is just too stiff to get the putty in. To test that this area was indeed leaking, I used some temporary strippable caulk to seal the gap. (If it didn't work, I wanted to be able to get rid of it.)

Amazon.com: Dap 18324 Seal 'N Peel Removable Caulk, 10.1-Ounce: Home Improvement

Now that I have found the problem area, I need to figure out a way to permanently seal it.

My advice to anyone rebuilding their windows is to use black butyl caulk inside the H cross section weather strip to seal to the body and to the window frame on the outside portion.
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IMG_3728-001.JPG   IMG_3729.JPG  

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Old 07-13-2012, 06:04 AM   #59
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Tom,

Thanks for the update. As for my side, I did as you said and cut out the draining hole from the felt. That made a huge difference and no more water coming from that side. I did not try the butyl solution but with after some days in the sun it seems that the windows gasket as tighten so no more water is coming in even in heavy rain.

Fred
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:14 AM   #60
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Tom,

Thanks for the update. As for my side, I did as you said and cut out the draining hole from the felt. That made a huge difference and no more water coming from that side. I did not try the butyl solution but with after some days in the sun it seems that the windows gasket as tighten so no more water is coming in even in heavy rain.

Fred
Fred, that is great to hear. I wasn't getting much of a leak - maybe a teaspoon - but that ends up on the pillow - an unwelcome greeting!

I'm skeptical that the rubber seal can reliably seal the total circumference to both the fiberglass wall and to the aluminum frame. The front / rear window design with the clamping ring is a much more robust design IMHO.
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