Uhaul Side Windows

[RICK H.]

Does anyone know if the rubber trim that holds the side windows and door window in is still available? What is the best way to remove the windows [least chance of breakage]? My rubber seals are cracked and I am wondering if that is part of my leakage. I also have the new felt channels that I need to install, will it be easier to do with window out? THANKS for your help, RICK

[Bud Kennedy]

The left hand window has rubber a lock strip on the inside that must be removed. Then the window can be pushed out from the inside. Of course someine needs to be outside to keep it from falling.

I never had the right one out but I assume that there is a similar lock strip in that window also.

I have seen rubber channel that is about the same as on the U-haul for sale, but I wonder what happens when you try to force it around the radius at the corners. Seems to me it would flare out and ruin the job. I am thinking the channel would have to be molded with the corners already in to work.

I have the same cracking problem and have had limited sucess by forcing Permatex black adhesive silicone into the cracks. This also works well in filling the gap where the ends of the rubber meet.

[K Slade]

The left hand window has rubber a lock strip on the inside that must be removed. Then the window can be pushed out from the inside. Of course someine needs to be outside to keep it from falling.

I never had the right one out but I assume that there is a similar lock strip in that window also.

I have seen rubber channel that is about the same as on the U-haul for sale, but I wonder what happens when you try to force it around the radius at the corners. Seems to me it would flare out and ruin the job. I am thinking the channel would have to be molded with the corners already in to work.

I have the same cracking problem and have had limited sucess by forcing Permatex black adhesive silicone into the cracks. This also works well in filling the gap where the ends of the rubber meet.

The new rubber channel will conform to the existing radius as it is installed if necessary I would use a heat gun to warm it up before pushing it in place. Been there done that.

[RICK H.]

Anyone know where to get this rubber channel?

[Bridget T]

Hey Rick,
I just ordered something from perfectfit that someone from the Uhaulcamper site had apparently used successfully. Check out the amazing post on that site about replacing a U-Haul window - if you need to pay and join to see it, it will be well worth the investment - a really good post.

What I have ordered - had to order 50 feet (and not tried yet)
AS-1488, Self Sealing Weatherstrips, Self-Locking
AS-937-A, Self Sealing Weatherstrips, Self-Locking
there is also a tool that helps to insert it that I had previously purchased.

Bridget

[RICK H.]

Bridget, have you put new seals in yet? I was thinking on ordering some of that stuff you bought, but wanted to know how well it worked. Thanks

[Bridget T]

Rick,
Sadly I have not worked on the windows yet, busy with the real house. It is nearing the top of my todo list though.

Bridget

[Bridget T]

I finally attacked the most intimidating job in my trailer so far – the leaky windows. I managed to take the side windows out, take them apart (drill out rivets holding screen on), change the fuzzy felt channel, clean the window, and rerivet it back together (first time with a rivet gun). The delight of getting it back in the window hole still awaits but I thought I would share what I have done so far.

I would like to add a special thanks to Casey ‘napiersworld’ on Uhaulcamper who put up a detailed post a couple of months ago that showed me the way. Also to Ami P who listed the felt for the sliding window and ‘midbubsc’ who listed the outer window strip on Uhaulcamper. I am going to go into a lot of detail for anyone that wants to do this themselves and like me never used a rivet gun before this. Also it seems like a pretty popular Uhaul topic.

Items needed:
Rivet gun

Rivets


New 2 part locking gasket (for window fitting into the fiberglass hole - picture attached, Parts 2 and 4 in 'Window inside view from Uhaul manual) Perfectfit AS-1488, AS-937-A,
Self Sealing Weatherstrips, Self-Locking and 2 Piece Weatherstripping for Boats and Equipment



and lockstrip tool


Window felt for sliding window to run in – Perfectfit AS-1268 - cross section picture attached. Not shown in Uhaul manual drawings.
All Rubber Channels with Flocked Lining



Assorted tools such as drill, WD40, screwdrivers, plyers, large bar clamp

You might need CRL Vinyl bug strip (outer strip that seals edge of window next to sliding glass side – Part 4 in 'Window outside view' and Part 6 from 'window outside view' from Uhaul manual) CRL B621 [Mine was fine so I did not order this and cannot comment whether this works.] B621 - CRL Black 84" Vinyl 1-1/2" Deep Bug Strip

[Bridget T]

Here are the Uhaul manual pictures I am referring to.

[Bridget T]

First step is to get the windows out. Both side windows are held in by rubber channels with locking strips. This is easily seen on the escape window side where there is the orange pull strip to help you pull the lock strip out. On the other side window it is a little harder to see but I was able to find the end of the lock strip and pull it out as well. Pull the strip out all around the window. Then you have to shove the window out, along with the rubber (Make sure someone is there to catch it!) We started at the top, had to cut through some extra caulking the PO added in an attempt to stop leaks. Work at one corner and apply good pressure to the edge of the window until it starts to go and then work around the window.

Here is the freed window, with a close up of the old gasket with the locking channel out.




Next job (or you could leave it to the end)– clean up the edges of the fiberglass window hole as well as the metal edge of the window.

Here is the fine edge of the window hole - the two walls of fiberglass are pressed together really tightly here.

I had to remove some mini awnings the previous owner had added and lots of putty and caulk.


I gently scraped and cut off what I could then used goo gone (citrus based solvent) and dishwashing detergent water to clean the areas. I have been told to use acetone as a final clean prior to window insertion so I plan to do that.

[Bridget T]

The window – once the outside edge is clean you have to take it apart.
First, you need to take the rivets apart that hold the screen on. There are seven rivets, but you only need to undo six of them – the one in the middle of the window only holds two parts of the screen together, the other six hold the screen to the frame.
I was pretty nervous about this part, since I haven’t done any rivet work. However, if you have a working knowledge of a drill you can do this. Pick a drill bit the size, or slightly bigger than the dimple in the rivet. Put on safety glasses – really, bits of metal come off when you drill and while none flew up when I did it, getting them in your eye would be a really bad idea. Drill gently but with good pressure. The goal is to pull of the cap of the rivet, not to drill all the way through it. The bottom of the rivet will remain but you can remove it once you pull the screen off. I did a bunch of different things, ‘wiggling’ the drill to get more drilled around the edge of the central hole (I didn’t have a vast selection of drill bits at my disposal), prying off the cap with plyers etc. I got them all off without too much effort. Now the screen is off – Yay!

[Bridget T]

Next – open up the frame to get the sliding glass out. There are six screws anchoring the frame. There are two long screws – one into the top and one into the bottom. My bottom one was rusted and it was a bit of a fight.
And actually on my second window I could not get this one out - but I was still able to slide the glass out.

There are four very short screws on the side of the window where it splits apart – which hold the frame together, going through a metal support that pulls the frame together - Don’t lose this part! Once these are out you can gently pull the frame apart (actually it took me a bit of muscle) and then gently slide out the sliding glass panel.

Now you have taken the window all apart!

[Bridget T]

Next step is to get out the old rusty felt channel, this is the reason you just took the whole window apart. Be careful as there is a metal support in this thing that can get scratch you. I worked from the back end and wedged some out with a screwdriver and once enough was out grabbed and pulled with pliers – it actually came out pretty easily.
Now more cleaning – Bits of gunk will be left, plus some glue. Also the other sides of those rivets you broke apart. I took off what I could with scraping, and goo gone until I felt it was clean enough. If you look closely at the channel you will see that there are two notches on either side of the bottom, you want these to be clean as part of the new felt channel will wedge into these areas.

[Bridget T]

Oops! I forgot to mention that prior to removing the sliding glass pane you should also remove the outer gasket if you still have it. It just pulls out easily, put this aside unless you have bought the replacement. What I am talking about is part 4 in this Uhaul manual drawing.

[Bridget T]

Once you are happy that the channel is clear enough it is time to add the new felt. I think the one I used fit in the channel perfectly.

As I mentioned at the bottom of the channel there are notches on either side - you might be able to see that in the picture. The bottom of the felt juts out and with some work can wedge into this notch.

To accomplish this I put in the felt and pressed it in the middle with the back of my butter knife (it was the right width but a flat screwdriver would work too).

Then I used the working side of the butter knife to slide on the outside edge of each side of the felt, pressing down until I felt the side bits of the felt catch into the notch. This really works and makes the window slide much easier. I didn't come up with this technique until my second window and then took apart the first one I did and redid the felt with the butter knife technique. When I put it back together the window slide much easier.

I cut the felt off at the mid window junction and then put the felt in the upper half as well, making sure the window frame can fit back together with pressure. I just wedged the felt in and did not use any glue, it really wedges in tightly.

[Bridget T]

Note - something else I tried:
There has been some discussion of the ‘design error’ in the U-haul windows where the drain holes are located and the fact that the felt covers this. In the first window I did I decided to cut a small piece out of the felt that would go over this drain hole. Not sure if this was the best decision but here is a picture of what I did. For the next window I decided not to do this - I will see if there is a difference.

[Bridget T]

Now it is time to put it all back together! Clean off the sliding window and put it into the new felt channel by stretching the frame apart.

Reattach the frame – put the four screws back into the metal holding piece and the two long screw back into the top and bottom (I replaced what I could with new screws and then added a little bit of butyl tape around the top of the screw shaft before the final tighten).


Now it is time to rivet. I had never riveted before so I had earlier taken the whole window to Princess Auto and discussed the situation. A very nice guy showed me the riveter and rivets he thought would work – as pictured at the beginning. Then I watched a couple of You-tube videos on how to do it. It worked for me.

Basically you load the rivet into the tool, line up the screen hole with the frame hole, place the rivet in and then press down firmly and engage the tool. Do spend some time lining things up and pressing the tool down firmly - you really don't want to have to undo all your work again due to a bad rivet.
It didn’t require herculian strength. For some reason I did have to really knock my tool around to get the part of the rivet that stays in it to get out - you can't do the next one until this bit is out.


I was worried that I might crack the window glass but no problem there. One issue was that once the bottom of the screen was riveted the top holes did not match the frame. This was easily solved by using our large bar clamp to squeeze the frame a little until it was all lined up.


Way easier than I had imagined frankly.

[Bridget T]

Remember the outer gasket I forgot to tell you to remove? Well now you can put it back in. I noticed it now fits much more snugly up against the new felt rubber. (The reason I forgot about removing it is that it used to just fall right out.)
I suspect that this is a much more watertight seal now - but we'll see, I may buy the new part for this too - the good thing is that this is super easy to switch out.

[Bridget T]

So here are the photos of the finished window frames! Glass slides snugly but not too tight.

I still have to get the windows back in the fiberglass (which does not sound fun - but I'm sure it can be managed). Here is a shot comparing the old two piece gasket with the new two piece - looks like a perfect match to me.

Ok - time for a beer.

Bridget

[Matt in SV]

This is awesome in its detail and very easy to follow.

I am also very curious how the experiment with the weep hole cutout in the felt will work, and I encourage you not to wait for rain to find out! Maybe get a hose and dribble water right into the channel and see if it leaks in, or out!.

Regards,

Matt