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Old 06-19-2019, 04:47 PM   #21
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Name: Gerardo
Trailer: 1976 Surfside Triple E
Alberta
Posts: 2
This happened to my brother recently. I was doing some research to see if there is a better hitch with more safety features to prevent this from happening and came across the Hitchtek Safe-Guard. It looks like a pretty good solution to avoid this problem. Before I order one I wanted to see if anybody has tried it.
https://www.hitchtek.com/
/Users/gerardocarsolio/Desktop/Screen Shot 2019-06-19 at 4.44.48 PM.png
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:52 PM   #22
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Name: LYNN
Trailer: Little Guy Mini Max
Texas
Posts: 7
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With our Andersen WDH, It is always necessary to lift the rear of the TV a little (sometimes quite a bit) in order to insert the cross pin in the equalizing chain bracket (not to be mistaken for safety chains, crossed as always). The electric tongue jack makes this a snap. But I have once or twice neglected to raise the front stabilizers from their down (trailer leveled) position, preventing lowering the trailer enough so that the coupler can seat properly down on the ball before latching the hitch. Partway up on the ball, the latch cannot be engaged. One should be sure of the front stabilizers- lift them up before hitching, so latch safety isn't compromised. Remove chocks last. Cheers.
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Old 06-20-2019, 06:35 AM   #23
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerardo View Post
This happened to my brother recently. I was doing some research to see if there is a better hitch with more safety features to prevent this from happening and came across the Hitchtek Safe-Guard. It looks like a pretty good solution to avoid this problem. Before I order one I wanted to see if anybody has tried it.
https://www.hitchtek.com/
/Users/gerardocarsolio/Desktop/Screen Shot 2019-06-19 at 4.44.48 PM.png



Seems like an idea that would only help in very specific situations. And it adds a lot of bulk to the hitch of the TV side. My hatch would not do well with this. My hitches on all my trailers are such that the latch is very noticeably engaged. At least if I use the right ball.

I tried the wrong one, once. But it was noticeable enough different that the hitch was not fully engaged. Don't know if it would have come lose, but it was very noticeably wrong. That insert is now gray and not black. Spray paint is a wonderful thing ;-)

Have some people with a company I work for who were given the wrong insert with a trailer to pull. It came loose with a full load and it was a bit ugly. They had some trouble getting to the side of an interstate. Then had to leave it by the side of the road while they went and found the right sized ball.



Have thought of one of those devices with an extra line to the hitch which would use the trailer power to turn on the trailer brakes in the case the hitch comes loose.
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:18 AM   #24
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Name: Fredrick
Trailer: Escape 21C
Tennessee
Posts: 318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Its possible that after hitching, the latch inside your coupler was jammed above the ball. Every time I lower the trailer coupler onto the hitch ball, I look under the coupler to make sure that the coupler latch extends below the ball after lowering the trailer onto the hitch. Sometimes I double check this by jacking the trailer tongue up a couple of inches after hitching up. When performing this check, if the trailer is securely hitched, both the trailer tongue and the tow vehicle hitch will rise together.
WE always do a double check b4 hauling..these steps:
1. Raise the hasp/latch and also look to make sure the lock clip is ON the receiver locking pin
2. back up slowly til the ball in under the receiver socket
3. lower ONTO the ball and close the latch and put in the latch lock.
4. I often use a little mirror to LOOK up at the thing to make sure the "underjaw" lock is around the ball
5. Hook up the chains and safety break pins
6. then my wife removes the wheel chocks
7. Then I put the truck into gear and rock forward and backwards about an inch each way..and my wife LOOKS again to make sure the ball is INTO the receiver and the TT follows the truck

Note to all: I have heard of 'thugs' or even kids :-( at rest stops/fuel stops/campgrounds etc.. who think it funny to PULL off the lock pin clips from trailer receivers lock pins.. l always LOOK at the rig and its hookups b4 heading out, if I have been away from the rig..even for a few minutes. I usually add a bit of grease to the main ball and the sway-bar ball b4 I hitch up
WE use two small walkie-talkies for coms while hitching and backing..alot of places have sh!tty cell serviice but the walkies always work. ;-)
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:26 AM   #25
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred762 View Post
Note to all: I have heard of 'thugs' or even kids :-( at rest stops/fuel stops/campgrounds etc.. who think it funny to PULL off the lock pin clips from trailer receivers lock pins.. l always LOOK at the rig and its hookups b4 heading out, if I have been away from the rig..even for a few minutes. I usually add a bit of grease to the main ball and the sway-bar ball b4 I hitch up

If I am going where I will not be with the vehicle the whole time I always use a lock in the whole in the latch lever. Did have someone steal my insert pin one time. That was a problem.

I also make it a point to walk around the camper/trailer every time I stop. I have found problems a few times. Generally only have me for hooking up and going. Never have considered radios if I do have help. I just always roll down all the windows regardless of the weather when I am doing it.
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:00 AM   #26
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 9,908
Registry
Agree on the walk-around. Once someone put a glass bottle right in front of one of my trailer tires. I also keep locks on my drawbar pin and coupler latch to deter malicious tampering.
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:10 AM   #27
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 365
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Agree on the walk-around. Once someone put a glass bottle right in front of one of my trailer tires. I also keep locks on my drawbar pin and coupler latch to deter malicious tampering.

Tried the locking receiver pin thing. Just found that it also ended up being a problem to unlock when I needed it.
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:17 AM   #28
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 9,908
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So what went wrong? I did read where one broke, leaving the pin unsecured, but Iíve never had any trouble unlocking mine. I do carry a spare key in the glove box and a tube of graphite powder.
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Old 06-20-2019, 02:56 PM   #29
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 365
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
So what went wrong? I did read where one broke, leaving the pin unsecured, but Iíve never had any trouble unlocking mine. I do carry a spare key in the glove box and a tube of graphite powder.

Think I might have gotten dirt in the key slot. Key would not go all the way in. Thought I got the key slot all the way clean and the key did appear to go all the way in but still would not turn. Left it that way till I got home and then used an angle grinder on it. Normally pull the insert so I and nobody else hits it with their leg.
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:20 PM   #30
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 9,908
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by computerspook View Post
Think I might have gotten dirt in the key slot. Key would not go all the way in. Thought I got the key slot all the way clean and the key did appear to go all the way in but still would not turn. Left it that way till I got home and then used an angle grinder on it. Normally pull the insert so I and nobody else hits it with their leg.
Mine has a cap over the key slot. Like you I remove it whenever we're not actually towing and store it out of weather and dirt. Hasn't been a problem. A periodic shot of graphite powder into any lock exposed to the elements seems to keep it working smoothly. My Scamp's door lock gets a dose at least once a year.

Based on what I saw in the post about one like mine that broke in normal use, I think I could use a tire iron to pry it off the end of the pin if I had to. It's not that strong.

I do know one forum member who had the ball mount stolen from his vehicle while he was unhitched and visiting a local event. It was an isolated location, and he had to drive 5 hours round trip to buy a new one just to hitch up and leave camp.

It isn't Brinks-level security, but it's better than nothing in my mind.
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:34 PM   #31
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Mine has a cap over the key slot. Like you I remove it whenever we're not actually towing and store it out of weather and dirt. Hasn't been a problem. A periodic shot of graphite powder into any lock exposed to the elements seems to keep it working smoothly. My Scamp's door lock gets a dose at least once a year.

Based on what I saw in the post about one like mine that broke in normal use, I think I could use a tire iron to pry it off the end of the pin if I had to. It's not that strong.

I do know one forum member who had the ball mount stolen from his vehicle while he was unhitched and visiting a local event. It was an isolated location, and he had to drive 5 hours round trip to buy a new one just to hitch up and leave camp.

It isn't Brinks-level security, but it's better than nothing in my mind.
well the one I had the locking system was built into the pin. No prying. Even with an angle grinder it took a while.
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Old 06-21-2019, 12:25 AM   #32
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Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,262
My 2014 Escape 21 has a different sort of hitch reciever than what I've seen on most other trailers. this U shaped bracket has to be slid forward, then down to lock into place, and it doesn't seem possible to do this if its not properly seated on the ball. I'd go take a cell pic of it to better show you, but its dark and misty out tonight.

edit: ok, its a lot like this one, I dunno what these are called.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:34 AM   #33
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,386
Here's the direction I've taken.

This is radically different and allows for full articulation. Over 180 degrees up and down, and the same left and right. It provides 360 degrees in rotational movement, so it will not let go in a crash or force the TV to tip too.

No longer is the ball, that pulls your trailer along, the part that also does the articulating. A ball joint can never have as much movement, and when a ball joint hits it's limit, something has to give.

This coupler cannot be mistaken for being incorrectly connected, and since the connecting piece is not the articulating piece, no lubrication is needed. It remains clean.

If it ever needs to be replaced, the joint is an off-the-shelf heavy duty truck U joint.

The only change required to adapt the tow bar to this coupler is to remove the ball and install, in it's place, the new stainless steel pin.

The tongue end is more complicated for retrofitting, but bolts down with four bolts.

These come in a couple different configurations. One is set up for very easy connecting where you simply back into it and it latches.

It also work with a WDH.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:42 AM   #34
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Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,262
huh, sort of a variation on the pintle hitch. pintles are great, but they 'klank' as you shift between accelerating and decellerating due to the slop between the hook and the eyelet. my son uses a military pintle hitch to tow a 11 ton military utility trailer behind his 5-ton 6x6 truck. with that rig, you don't even notice the klanking, hah! plus the trailer has airbrakes on all wheels. downside of that rig, you can't back up to save your butt, as the hitch 'steers' the front wheels of the trailer.

I don't have any good still pictures of this rig, but I did shoot a walk-around video when he was partially loaded preparing for Burning Man a few years ago, early dawn before we left on our own way.
https://pierce.smugmug.com/Misc/Truckin/i-ngsqzL9/A

he's got all the basics of a good desert party on there... 10KW diesel quiet tactical generator on back, a 500 gallon water tank, about 5 55 gallon drums of diesel. the truck carries a massive PA system too, a pair of JBL SRX835P mains, and 2 SRX828SP subwoofers, all powered by an onboard 7000W inverter generator, fed by a DJ mixing panel. tons of custom LED lighting and some propane flame throwers add to the overall effect.

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Old 06-21-2019, 02:47 AM   #35
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,386
John, I've seen your style coupler before and they do seem very positive latching and fool-proof to hook up.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:55 AM   #36
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,386
The McHitch has zero play, just like a new U joint in a driveshaft. The pin connector is tapered and also has zero play.

I haven't had a chance to try this out yet, as it was just ordered, but looking forward to using it. I had considered a pintle hook, but they just can't be had with close fitting parts and they are not suitable for a WDH if one was needed. Surprisingly, it's also hard to find a fully swiveling lunette, even though they are used on military trailers.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:58 AM   #37
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Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,262
your McHitch looks like it would be *awesome* for a trailer on an 'adventure' rig, a high articulated vehicle with a high clearance trailer being driven through all kinda gnarly 4x4 terrain involving extreme twisting. Seems kinda overkill for our fiberglass trailers, at least unless you've also moved your fiberglass trailer onto a high clearance heavy duty offroad frame...
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:02 AM   #38
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Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,262
btw, when I recently rented a baby backhoe tractor from the local rent-a-tool, they slapped a pintle hitch into the reciever on my f250. if I'd had anything less of a truck, it would have been a nogo. on the 10 miles or so round trip from the rental place to my place, and back, I can't say I noticed any klanking, and their trailer was a impulse braking thing. the f250 diesel did great with that 7000 lb or so tractor+trailer.

thats my personal total experience towing with a pintle hook.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:04 AM   #39
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,386
John,
Well, the cat's already out of the bag. I'm getting a Black Series HQ19 in August.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:20 AM   #40
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,386
I like the pintle hook, but have no experience pulling with one. I even have one I picked up at a garage sale and wanted to adapt it to the new trailer. But the details were too much. The new trailer has a fully articulating hitch of their own design, but I don't care for it. So the McHitch system seems like a good answer. I won't be doing any extreme four wheeling antics with my ram 3500, but I like the design of these and it should bolt right onto the trailer.

Still remember looking through your fine telescope at Bullard's Beach. Hope to do that again one of these days.

BTW, love the Burning Man rig. I went in 2000, but the size and difficulty of getting tickets has turned me off in recent years. I see a NV license plate on that truck. I guess your son lives in NV. Me too.
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