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Old 07-02-2018, 09:50 PM   #1
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Using high build primer for exterior

Hey friends,
Just wondering if anyone has used duplicolour or other brands of 'high build primer' for priming the exterior before painting, they come in rattle cans, found in the automotive section.

Ill be rolling and tipping with a single part polyurethane paint, on a Boler.

Is there any reason I should NOT be using this product?

Thanks for your thoughts. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-02-2018, 10:17 PM   #2
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your trailer is finished with a marine gel coat thats far more durable than any paint.

if the gel coat is damaged beyond where it can be repolished, why not use the same to refinish it ?

high build primers like that are for metal surfaces, not the epoxy base of the gelcoat over fiberglass.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fofobraselio View Post
Hey friends,
Just wondering if anyone has used duplicolour or other brands of 'high build primer' for priming the exterior before painting, they come in rattle cans, found in the automotive section.

Ill be rolling and tipping with a single part polyurethane paint, on a Boler.

Is there any reason I should NOT be using this product?

Thanks for your thoughts. Attachment 121365

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It is always best to use a purpose made primer that was specifically developed for the substrate you are applying it to. Then you should be sure to use a paint that is meant to work with that primer. Your money and your labor have a better guarantee of giving you the best return that way. The goal is to have the best possible adhesion to the substrate and between layers of coatings. Of course nice texture and color when the job is finished is also important. Convenient shopping is not nearly as important as great results. There are high build primers made for some brands of marine urethane paints. Of course you will also get a better job with rolling and tipping or with a professional quality sprayer than you will get with rattle cans.
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:07 AM   #4
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I used a different brand rattlecan highbuild in some spot locations, don't remember brand then roll and tipped interlux single stage on my boler.
Was done nov-dec. 2017, towed to Calif and back in winter approx. 4000 miles, pressure washed several times over the course of the last year.
Have experienced zero problems with paint peel etc.
I do agree with previous poster not to paint unless gelcoat is done,,, unless like me, there was no way I was gonna pull a pumpkin and cream coloured boler here behind my red hotrod!!

Fred
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:11 AM   #5
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fofo,

The manufacturer of the polyurethane you choose will have specific recommendations as to the primers and surface prep. Please follow their recommendations.

John, gelcoat is not epoxy base. High build primers are common in the marine industry under Urethane top coats.

The OP plans to roll and tip a single part polyurethane. This is a very good finish and easily the best way to re-coat a fiberglass trailer. There are likely a lot of surface imperfections that the high build can fix in the process.
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:18 AM   #6
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there was no way I was gonna pull a pumpkin and cream coloured boler here behind my red hotrod!!

Fred
Hey Fred, is that a Caliente? What are you running in it?
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:34 AM   #7
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Hey Fred, is that a Caliente? What are you running in it?
yep, 64
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:42 AM   #8
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yep, 64

That is very cool. I've wanted one of those for years. Yours is not exactly stock so don't get on it too hard or you might pull the frame right out from under the trailer!!! Love the blower. Excellent TV. Hope to see you at the Boler Rally in Winnipeg.
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:31 AM   #9
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Thanks for chippin' in your opinions fellas.
Ive just read a source that recommends you do not use a urethane paint over a lacquer primer such as the duplicolour mentioned,.as it will not adhere as well in the long run.
From what I have gathered there is 2 options.
Epoxy based primer with its high strength, low shrinkage and great water resistance
OR
Urethane based primer with higher gloss retention and better UV protection.

Seeing as the top coat is urethane based and the boler will be exposed to lots of sun, I will skip the rattle cans (except for stubborn repair spots over body filler) and go with a urethane primer such as Interlux pre kote.

Glad I don't need to tip the primer.
We'll be out camping before you know it.

Thanks again

Research sources:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint...er-primer.html
https://www.sherwin-automotive.com/f...ethane-primers

Paint type:
http://www.pettitpaint.com/products/...poxy-easypoxy/

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Old 07-03-2018, 09:47 AM   #10
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I just this minute finished sanding my Compact Jr and tomorrow will be rolling and tipping the 3rd and final coat of Interlux Brightside. I used 2 coats of Pre-Kote as primer, no thinner in the primer. But I did thin the paint to 10% with 333. Good idea especially if you are experiencing warm temperatures outside. Also, it’s best to roll an area no larger then 2 square feet. Get the very best 4” foam roller, I used ArroWorthy and had few bubbles. Each coat of paint required ~1quart of paint. It’s not a sprayed on look, but I’m pleased. I’ll try to post photos after I get my pinstripes done. Good luck with your work.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:07 AM   #11
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Jane,

That sounds like the right way to do it.

It takes some practice to get the rolling and tipping right, as you've noticed. I had a hard time getting it as smooth as I wanted and keeping a wet edge where the next patch ties in. As I went along, there was always some spot I had to leave longer than I wanted to and was beginning to stiffen up. A helper is good and really important for tipping. No stopping until the whole area is done in one sweep. Don't try to fix minor imperfections or remove bugs as you go. Just keep the bigger picture in mind and keep going. The thinning, as you mentioned seems to be the only way to extend the stiffening, but it also thins the coat and makes it run easier. Painting is a real skill that I've never mastered.

Brightside is incredibly UV resistant and glossy. Done right it will last for years. Boats can ply the sea, sit outside and be washed over and over with Brightside hulls.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:13 AM   #12
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Painting

I've used Brightside many times on fiberglass boats. Rolling with a 4" foam roller until the paint is sticky will eliminate any need for tipping and prevent runs and bubbles also. The thicker coat you put on the longer you will need to roll it. Watch your roller closely and do not let it start to break up, change the roller often enough to prevent ir breaking up. Brightside is very forgiving and will level out and brighten up as it cures and shrinks. Definately use the primer Interlux made for Brightside. By the way Gelcoat IS Epoxy, since it is mostly non reinforced epoxy it is not very hard.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:15 AM   #13
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PS Do not wax Brightside. It has Teflon in it that rises to the top and makes it easy to keep clean. Wax will remove the Teflon
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:39 AM   #14
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By the way Gelcoat IS Epoxy, since it is mostly non reinforced epoxy it is not very hard.
I guess I'm confused. Are you saying that Compact Jrs were made with epoxy gel coat, instead of polyester gel coat, and then built up with polyester resin and glass? Seems unlikely with the cost and adhesion problems.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:07 PM   #15
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Gelcoat

No adhesion problem between polister and epoxy. Once polister cures epoxy must be used to get good adhesion because new polisher will not properly adhere to old polister.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:13 PM   #16
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you mean polyester? cuz I sure don't know what polister is.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:28 PM   #17
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No adhesion problem between polister and epoxy. Once polister cures epoxy must be used to get good adhesion because new polisher will not properly adhere to old polister.
TOTALLY DISAGREE!!,,!!

Ive never seen delamination of reasonably roughed up old glass and a new glass
application.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:51 PM   #18
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No adhesion problem between polister and epoxy.
No adhesion problem? The general rule is that epoxy sticks to polyester, but polyester does not stick to epoxy and this certainly has held true for the work I have done.

I've also seen a lot of boat repairs where Polyester was used to repair polyester hulls.


I hope you'll provide more information
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:32 AM   #19
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Lots of good advice here. We spray solvent based polyurethane or acrylic, depending on colour choice. Both have been designed specifically for fibreglass exterior application.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:45 AM   #20
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Use products that mention "fiberglass." And you can "just" roll using a foam, closed-end (hot dog) roller if you roll until all the bubbles are out and then let the paint self-level. You don't "HAVE" to "tip." What makes a huge difference is working where there is no dust or floating cottonwood! Use two or more well-rolled out coats (thin) rather than try to do it all in one go. And sand carefully in between coats. You can also wet-sand with very fine sand paper afterwards...

BEST with your project,

Kai
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