Want to improve my table in Trillium 1300

[Darren Pettis]

Hello All
I am new to these trailers but I bought a 1975 Trillium 1300 (we nicknamed it THE GREEN MACHINE).
We want to cover the brown 1975 veneer covered dinette table. I don't want to make a whole new table so I was thinking of putting a layer of Arborite of my choice on top of the old surface with contact cement. It should be easy but I am not sure what to do about the edging. Are there any ideas out there? I just want to give it that "finished" look.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (or photos)

thanks

[K Slade]

Hello All
I am new to these trailers but I bought a 1975 Trillium 1300 (we nicknamed it THE GREEN MACHINE).
We want to cover the brown 1975 veneer covered dinette table. I don't want to make a whole new table so I was thinking of putting a layer of Arborite of my choice on top of the old surface with contact cement. It should be easy but I am not sure what to do about the edging. Are there any ideas out there? I just want to give it that "finished" look.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (or photos)

thanks

Hi Darren
I have recovered all my counter tops at home so the procedure will be the same. Sand, sand ,sand the old arborite so you will get a good bond and use contact cement to glue it down. As fpr edge trim i bought iron on wood veneer and stained it to suit.
Hope this helps.
Ken

[Darren Pettis]

Thanks for your reply. I can sand it down but I have no idea how to cut arborite.
Also I do not know what iron on veneer is (?). I also have never stained anything before. Is there something else? I see some tables have metal or white plastic edging.

[Darren Pettis]

I went to the home depot to look at some arborite and consult with the people in that department about my project. The arborite sheets were $75 , they had no idea what I could use for edging, other than the arborite itself. Also they said I would need to cut it with a router (I have never used one in my life) and that it would be tricky to put the top on (had to use dowels to roll it on?) !
So I have changed my mind on putting a new arborite top on. Anyone else out there have any ideas to spruce up this old top that is not too difficult and doesn't cost that much? I suppose I could paint it, but that probably would not hold up and would scratch badly

[Raya]

I realize you said that you'd like to keep the original table, but I'm just going to toss in my .02 anyway - I hope you don't mind.

I would make a new table. The reason is that the original tables are particle board overlaid with with the "wood" veneer, and it makes for a very heavy table! If you add a layer of laminate (Formica, etc.) and glue, it will only get heavier.

For that reason, I would probably make a new table. Even if you don't want to get fancy, you could cut one from plywood (maybe with a rounded edge instead of diagonaled) and varnish it for a nice look). It's a matter of taste, but with a nice grade of ply, I don't mind seeing the edge, especially if it's bullnosed or just sanded a bit to "break" the sharp edge; that way there would be no need to veneer or trim out the edge.

Steve Hilby made a neat table for his sister by using really thin plywood glued and spaced apart with 1 x stock. That makes for a super strong and light table (you may not need to go that far, though).

Anyway, just another option.

Raya

PS: I've also seen people glue a map or something onto the existing table top, and then polyurethane (varnish) over it. That could be fun. Or maybe dark paper, then fun photos, then a plexi top?

[KeithP]

I went to the home depot to look at some arborite and consult with the people in that department about my project. The arborite sheets were $75 , they had no idea what I could use for edging, other than the arborite itself. Also they said I would need to cut it with a router (I have never used one in my life) and that it would be tricky to put the top on (had to use dowels to roll it on?) !
So I have changed my mind on putting a new arborite top on. Anyone else out there have any ideas to spruce up this old top that is not too difficult and doesn't cost that much? I suppose I could paint it, but that probably would not hold up and would scratch badly

It's real easy to work with arborite. The just sand the table well, glue down the new aronrite with contact cement (you can roll it with a rolling pin) and then route it with a laminate cutting bit. The bit has a guide so its hard to make mistakes. Using laminate on the edges is good too. You could also use a hardwood like oak (that's what I did on the counter top) for the edges but you need to be worried about it fitting in place when used as a bed.

I've attached a photo of a new counter top I made for my Surfside. Trust me I'm no pro but had no problems with this.

[Darren Pettis]

Lot's of great ideas guys, thanks :-)
Raya, I LOVE the idea of a map of North America with varnish over the top but I have never used varnish before. Perhaps I can cut a piece of black costruction paper to the shape of the table and glue a map to it and then screw some plexiglass on top of it ? Then feather the edge of the plexi?

Nice looking countertops, Keith.
I have never used a router before but I suppose I could buy one or borrow one and play with it a bit.
Do I need a big workshop table to use a router? All I have is a garage and a couple of sawhorses.
I wonder if arborite can be sanded to a tapered edge, this way I would not have to worry about putting a new edge on the table.

[Doug Mager]

Darren, why not take the easy way out? Sand or just scuff the tabletop and then paint it (whatever colour you choose)? You could even roll on a good coat of either varnish or clear resin to help make it last longer.....

[Darren Pettis]

Doug, I didn't think you could sand a veneer top and wouldn't paint just scratch off from repeated use?

[Raya]

I was going to suggest the "sand and melamine paint" idea, but then I couldn't remember if the Trillium table top was "real" laminate or more of a paper or thin vinyl laminate (think: fancy Contact paper). Doug probably knows though

As for "varnishing" over a map, as much as I like real, old-fashioned varnish, I would probably use something like a polyurethane (varnish-like product but a different formulation). I'm wracking my brain because I just read where a fellow did this on a flip-up table by using an old chart (map) and I think he used a special "bar top" type clear finish that ends up looking like 1/4" of hard clear topping (if you like that look). I feel like it might have been a self-leveling epoxy or something. Will post back if I find it again.

***
Edited to add #1: Found it! I had it saved. Here is some info:

1) He took the table apart (it had teak edging strips and a Formica laminate main surface).

2) He sanded the laminate part to roughen it.

3) He wanted a thick, clear epoxy coating on the table (1/8"), so he used about a 1/2 liter of clear epoxy (my note: epoxy does not stand up to UV rays, so that is something to look into; not sure if the "bar top" stuff has added UV resistance).

4) He tested the chart print for color-fastness and it was not affected by the epoxy (it was an antique chart). He put the table in the oven to warm it up and accelerate curing but found it was unnecessary and almost made it cure too fast.

Here are photos:










****
Edited to add #2: This is the stuff I was thinking of. The site is a bit "home made" looking, but I have heard good things from people who have ordered other products from him.

http://www.epoxyproducts.com/bartop.html

And a thread discussing some other options:

http://forum.doityourself.com/furniture-wo...op-acrylic.html
*********************
I have seen someone post to this forum (a while back) who did the photos under plexiglass thing - it was pretty neat. You can sand the edges of plexi and they end up smooth and opaque; kind of like "sea glass."

Fun thread with interesting ideas

Raya

[Darren Pettis]

Darren, why not take the easy way out? Sand or just scuff the tabletop and then paint it (whatever colour you choose)? You could even roll on a good coat of either varnish or clear resin to help make it last longer.....

Doug, I see you have a 1975 like mine. What do you have for a table in yours?

[KeithP]

Lot's of great ideas guys, thanks :-)
Raya, I LOVE the idea of a map of North America with varnish over the top but I have never used varnish before. Perhaps I can cut a piece of black costruction paper to the shape of the table and glue a map to it and then screw some plexiglass on top of it ? Then feather the edge of the plexi?

Nice looking countertops, Keith.
I have never used a router before but I suppose I could buy one or borrow one and play with it a bit.
Do I need a big workshop table to use a router? All I have is a garage and a couple of sawhorses.
I wonder if arborite can be sanded to a tapered edge, this way I would not have to worry about putting a new edge on the table.

Your sawhorses will work fine. Just be sure to clamp the table top down tight. You can taper the edge of the laminate with a file but you may find you won't need to do that.

[Darren Pettis]

Hi Keith

Thanks for the info.
I have no clue how to do it though. They sell the arborite in 4 x 8 sheets.
So do I cut that sheet in 1/2 ? (with what kind of saw, table saw?)
Then do I glue the arborite to the table and then trim it with a router ?
Or do I trace the shape of the table first and cut the arborite on it's own?
Sorry, I do not even know what a router looks like or what it does :-(
Thanks for your help though

[Doug Mager]

Darren, you needen't SAND the tabletop, just scuff it (basically thats a light sanding) enough to give the paint a little something to grab on to. I'd also wipe it down well with a cleaner to get any traces of grease/grime off the tabletop before painting.
The painted surface should hold up well but by chance it doesn't last that long you can easily touch it up or re-do it.

We have our table permanently made into the bed as we (only two of us) almost always cook/eat outside under the awning.