water heater pilot - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-08-2002, 07:46 PM   #1
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water heater pilot

One irritating thing happened on our initial trip with the new Casita. The water heater pilot kept going out. We were at alitude ( NM, CO, UT, AZ) and I was led to believe that at high elevation this can be a problem. Anyone experience this?



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Old 10-08-2002, 08:13 PM   #2
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It happens Jim

The water heater pilot on any RV water heater is prone to blowing out, depending on all kinds of things ... wind, altitude, adjustment, etc., but even the pilot can also be overwhelmed by the reverse "whoosh" created when the burner cuts off from full burn back to pilot.

It's not a problem. It's just one of those things you learn to live with.

Over the years, we've developed what I call a demand hot water system. When Pam demands hot water, I go out and turn on the water heater. It heats up easily in one cycle. What I usually do after a cycle or two, is turn the knob back to pilot instead of the on position. Once the water is heated, we've found, running just the pilot keeps it warm enough for hours afterwards.

We rarely, if ever, leave the water heater going and blowing all day ... and never on at all during the night.

Something else that can affect the strength of your propane system ... especially with new propane tanks ... is whether or not your new propane tanks were properly purged when they were first filled.

You specifically have to ask Bubba at the propane place to PURGE your tanks prior to the first filling. Usually you have to pay $10 or so in addition to the regular price for filling the tank.

Not trying to worry you, but did you make sure your new propane tanks were properly purged prior to filling?



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Old 10-09-2002, 07:19 AM   #3
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water heater flameout

Charles, thanks for the input. I'm confident that my tanks were properly purged because we took the trailer to the Bubba propane outfit recommended by Casita. The fella that purged and filled the tanks had been doing it for years and even talked me through the process. It took him a while to do it right.
If I experience a flameout, does the gas continue spewing out? Does the gas shut off if the pilot goes out? When I found that the pilot had gone out I would wait a minute or two until I lit it again. I always turned the knob to 'off' before relighting. I want to be sure I'm operating everything safely.



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Old 10-09-2002, 04:22 PM   #4
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pilot

>>" Does the gas shut off if the pilot goes out?

Jim:

If the pilot goes out it's OK.

The heat from the pilot light causes a thermocouple to open a valve allowing gas thru the line to the burner (and the pilot). When you depress the knob, as you are lighting the pilot, it bypasses the thermocouple controlled valve. Notice, you can't relight it without depressing the valve?!



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Old 10-09-2002, 04:34 PM   #5
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Need the water heater

We had problems with our water heater when camping in winds or high altitudes. Needing my hot shower and Charlie hating to go out and keep relighting, we finally went to Camping World and had an electric hot rod installed. Charlie put a switch inside the camper. We mostly camp with hookups so all I have to do is hit the switch. Funny now the gas water heater works most of the time, except in high winds. We even made a shield but this doesn't help much. Then of course it is the husbands task to keep relighting so the women can have their hot water.

The hot rod does void the warrenty on the gas heater but so far we never had a problem .:hap2



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Old 10-10-2002, 07:49 AM   #6
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hot rod

Barbara,
I'm unfamiliar with the 'Hot Rod' you had installed in your water heater. It sounds like you made it into a remote igniter. Could you enlighten me?



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Old 10-10-2002, 08:16 AM   #7
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Hot rod

Jim, a hot rod is an electrical rod that replaces the anode rod/plug in the water heater. Plug it into electricity and it heats up the water.

Reason the hot rod voids the Suburban warranty is the Suburban water heat uses an anode rod to lengthen the life of the water tank.

But, as Barb says, folks use them all the time ... but do so with the knowledge that your voiding the warranty (if you have one).

Atwood water heaters (used in some makes of fiberglass trailers) do not use an anode rod, so you probably could use a hot rod in them without voiding the warranty (although I don't know that for a fact!)



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Old 10-10-2002, 08:40 AM   #8
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Hot Rod/Anode Rod

Just wondering how often folks replace the anode rod. Is this every year, or does it depend on how much you're using? Also, does the hot rod also collect minerals and need to be replaced on same basis as the anode rod?



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Old 10-10-2002, 08:45 AM   #9
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Anode rod

>>how often

Depends on what kind of water you've been using ... and how long you've held the water in the water heater. Usually can get a couple of years out of my anode rods ... but sometimes have replaced it annually.

Check it a couple of times a year, by removing plug/anode rod assembly. When any part of the anode is pencil thin, replace the rod.

No, the hot rod doesn't work like an anode rod, which is why Suburban voids your warranty if you use one.

Now, I just had a thought, however ... if you do shorten the life of your water heater tank by using a hot rod ... and the tank starts leaking ... if you remove the hot rod and replace the anode rod before taking your trailer in for service, particularly warranty service.... I won't tell!



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Old 10-10-2002, 09:08 AM   #10
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anode rod

Be sure to release the water pressure in the water heater before removing the anode rod.:red :red :red



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Old 10-10-2002, 09:28 AM   #11
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Anode rod

Nick, that second smilie with the red face was me.:red ":red" :red

Ain't campin fun!!!



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Old 10-25-2002, 04:36 PM   #12
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water heater lighter

:wave Ted Tuchen had a thing at lake casita that (as i recall) he said, is an electronic re-igniter. sold by suburban at bubba's. about $80.00
you have to go outside and push something, it lights the pilot and if it gets blown out, it re-ignites it.
meant to buy one this week, but forgot.,,there's lots to forget.



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Old 10-25-2002, 04:53 PM   #13
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Cross reference

Lou,

I posted the details (?) on the Casita Club forum some time ago. You will have to do a search. If that doesn't help let me know.

You basically got it right. There is an on-off switch on the module which provides an elctronic spark to the pilot anytime it is in the on postion and there is no pilot.



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Old 10-25-2002, 06:59 PM   #14
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re-ignitor

If the pilot flame goes out, will the ignitor relite the flame before the thermocouple cools enough to shut off the propane?:chin

Anybody tried it??



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Old 10-25-2002, 08:01 PM   #15
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Answer

Quote:
Orginally posted by PineConeDon

If the pilot flame goes out, will the ignitor relite the flame before the thermocouple cools enough to shut off the propane?:chin

Anybody tried it??
Yes --- The reignitor will light before the thermocouple cools off. Not only that, I also tested it by trying to blow the pilot out --- couldn't.

I have one and I haven't had any pilot outages since I started using it.

It is designed by Sububan to go in as a reletively easy mod. The only tricky part was getting the elcetrode gap and position just right.

Do a search in the Casita Club forum for more info and some pictures. Sorry I don't have the URL handy.

Hope that helps.



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Old 11-01-2002, 06:41 PM   #16
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re-igniter

Ted,
finally bought it $65.+change..now all we have to do is intall it:O
also bought a progressive dynamics 9145a converter charger...now we really need help..the instructions that came with it leave a lot to be desired.
its got a pig tail plug that we do not have a clue about. tried to call for the manual at 1545 and no answer. (br wholesale in s. ca.)



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Old 11-27-2002, 10:18 AM   #17
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reigniter

:wave see that i've had this stuff for about a month now.
finally got it all hooked up. works great



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Old 11-27-2002, 10:51 AM   #18
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Water Heater Electric Ignition

About a month ago, when I viewed my 1st Casita live,
a 17' Spirit Deluxe, I asked the owner if there was an
option she found completely worthless or wished she
had ordered and she replied "I should have ordered the
water heater ignition option", she bought everything
esle but that option.



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Old 11-27-2002, 11:25 AM   #19
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Lou Edwards

:wave see that i've had this stuff for about a month now.
finally got it all hooked up. works great
Lou,

Sounds like the way I work; buy it now, install it maņana.

Was the new converter a good fit or did you have to cut? Did you take photos?

Where did you buy the re-igniter?



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Old 11-29-2002, 02:39 PM   #20
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reigniter, et al

:wave Hi Morgan
the new converter is a lot smaller the old 6300, but we( and i mean WE, Lora is the carpenter in the family)
we added 1.5 inch square pieces under the new c/c to bring it level with the front piece and she added other blocks in the front for the old screws to fit into. she did it, and i was'nt watching, so it's hard to describe.
the reigniter was a bit more complicated than it looked up front. had to remove the guard plate above the pilot light and heater unit to get the pilot light assembly out to install the igniter.
again, the instructions left a little to be desired, but the whole thing comes out and once you get it all out, it goes back together pretty easy.
we hooked it up to the distribution panel instead of the instructed plan. that way everything is well grounded and fused.
btw,welded a ground buss to the trailer frame and used awg 6 wire for everything.



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