Water In Pipes When Traveling - Fiberglass RV
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Old 03-18-2021, 08:51 PM   #1
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Name: Joe
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Water In Pipes When Traveling

Dear Friends,
What do you do with the water in the pipes of a Scamp after disconnecting the hose hookup? Do you open a faucet to reduce some pressure? Do you release the backup valve at the water intake? Do you drain any pipes before moving on? Does it matter how much water pressure there is on the plumbing parts when in motion? I'm not referring to fresh water tank, only water from hose? Thanks.
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Old 03-18-2021, 09:12 PM   #2
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Doesn't matter. If it bugs you turn on the faucet and let what little pressure there is bleed out. That's with the pump off.
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Old 03-19-2021, 09:01 AM   #3
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Interesting question, Somewhere I read to use a water pressure gauge, so I got one. Maybe an experienced person will explain.
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Old 03-19-2021, 09:34 AM   #4
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I have an external tankless water heater with drain valves on the inlet and the outlet and when I am getting ready to roll as I walk around I turn off the water at the hose bib and as I proceed I open a drain valve on the heater and that bleeds off the water in the accumulator. Later I remove the hose and reel it in.
As to needing to do this, there is no need, you just get less water splashed on you when you undo the hose.
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Old 03-19-2021, 09:51 AM   #5
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
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Yes, it's a good idea to bleed off pressure, at the sink, or toilet, after disconnecting the supply hose.
Also to have a pressure reducing valve at the campground water tap, to limit water pressure to 40psi while hooked up.

Water trapped in the pipes can build up pressure due to thermal expansion during a hot day on the road.
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Old 03-19-2021, 10:16 AM   #6
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Water pressure gauge

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Originally Posted by MJo View Post
Interesting question, Somewhere I read to use a water pressure gauge, so I got one. Maybe an experienced person will explain.
Not sure of your reference here but I can tell you that many people hook up a water Pressure Regulator when they connect to “city water” many pressure regulators are adjustable so the water pressure in your camper system is proper for the installed plumbing. Many people run about 40 pounds pressure. So on the regulator there is a round dial gauge and the regulator has a screwdriver slot that can be turned in or out and the gauge goes up and down till it reads 40 or whatever your desired pressure. Most campgrounds are set up with pressure that is adequate for your trailer some are even on the low side. But once in a while you will run into a water system with very high pressure like 90 or 100 lbs or even greater. These kind of pressures can be too much for you trailer to handle. Hence the regulator and gauge and again, peace of mind. When we leave to go some place from the campground we turn off the city water hookup (hose bib) or if water tank water, we turn off the pump. Better to be safe than sorry. Nothing like coming back to your camper to find water running out from under the door. Hey Wayne “ Actung!!! No Cross connection,
No cross connection.”
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Old 03-19-2021, 10:48 AM   #7
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If you do not have the preasure regulator - You could hook up to a campground that has to high of a preasure. Its worth the money. Check Walmart, they sell them.

As for draining the preasure/water when towing, I have Never Heard Of That.
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Old 03-19-2021, 12:44 PM   #8
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Water pressure

I never hook up to city water. Just fill the tank when needed and use the 12 volt pump. No worries about a major flood from a leak that way.
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Old 03-19-2021, 12:46 PM   #9
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I never hook up to city water. Just fill the tank when needed and use the 12 volt pump. No worries about a major flood from a leak that way.
Just don't forget to turn the pump off when you are away from the trailer! You will have a major flood to return to if your plumbing springs a leak.
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Old 03-19-2021, 01:05 PM   #10
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I never hook up to city water. Just fill the tank when needed and use the 12 volt pump. No worries about a major flood from a leak that way.
I do the same as Ken. This helps cycle fresh water through the fresh water tank. I also only turn the pump on when using water.
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Old 03-19-2021, 02:18 PM   #11
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I always disconnect from shore water,make sure the pump is off and then hold the flush lever down on the toilet to empty the bowl of water to prevent any splash. That will of course drop the line pressure.
Otherwise, never even considered line pressure unless winterizing.
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Old 03-19-2021, 02:57 PM   #12
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Pump

Even if you forget to turn the pump off, the flood would be limited to the water in your tank as opposed to the water in the city reservoir!
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Old 03-19-2021, 03:34 PM   #13
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Leave pump off. Leave faucets closed.
You don’t want pump to accidentally drain the tank, and overflow your gray and/or black tank.
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Old 03-24-2021, 01:15 PM   #14
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Everyone is talking regulators set to 40 psi. Is there a reason that a PEX RV system wouldn't gracefully handle 100 psi shore supply?
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Old 03-24-2021, 01:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Thomcat316 View Post
Everyone is talking regulators set to 40 psi. Is there a reason that a PEX RV system wouldn't gracefully handle 100 psi shore supply?
The PEX would handle it fine, but not sure about fixtures since most RV water pumps output 40-60 psi. Fixture seals may have been designed with that pressure in mind.


Give it a try - just bring a lot of towels along!
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Old 03-24-2021, 01:29 PM   #16
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You don't need to drain off the water once you take off the fresh water hose there is no pressure in the system it is not a sealed system. Has for a pressure regulate have used them in the past but no anymore they cut the pressure to much and the water lines can take much more than 40 lbs.
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Old 03-24-2021, 01:35 PM   #17
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Everyone is talking regulators set to 40 psi. Is there a reason that a PEX RV system wouldn't gracefully handle 100 psi shore supply?
The pex, properly installed is good stuff. The two fears I would have would be improper installation and an unknown. “Makeup” spot or modification not done with pex and pex clamps. We inadvertently flat put the test on our 2010 Escape when I hooked up to a 100psi system without a regulator and had a fellow camper hurry over and warn me of the pressure. Had there been a defect I’m sure it would have shown up that time but it didn’t. After that I kept it regulated at 40 psi. Faucets and shower work nicely, shutoffs do not leak by and o rings function properly. YMMV
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Old 03-24-2021, 03:06 PM   #18
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I switch off the pump while traveling
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Old 03-24-2021, 03:26 PM   #19
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I switch off the pump while traveling

I switch off the pump when not actively drawing water.
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Old 03-24-2021, 03:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
The PEX would handle it fine, but not sure about fixtures since most RV water pumps output 40-60 psi. Fixture seals may have been designed with that pressure in mind.

Give it a try - just bring a lot of towels along!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
The pex, properly installed is good stuff. The two fears I would have would be improper installation and an unknown. “Makeup” spot or modification not done with pex and pex clamps. We inadvertently flat put the test on our 2010 Escape when I hooked up to a 100psi system without a regulator and had a fellow camper hurry over and warn me of the pressure. Had there been a defect I’m sure it would have shown up that time but it didn’t. After that I kept it regulated at 40 psi. Faucets and shower work nicely, shutoffs do not leak by and o rings function properly. YMMV
Iowa Dave
Thanks, guys!! Especially for the advice about the towels... Always know where your towel is!

We are getting ready to re-plumb a house, which will give me plenty of experience making good PEX connections. The question (and your kind answers) are for a future fiberglass fiver build that we will be doing.

One thing I've been finding on the route to this build is that RV-specific stuff is generally designed to squeeze the last penny out of production costs. This observation comes from engineers I've talked with at trade shows - the same manufacturers build for the RV and marine markets, and they tell me to never buy RV market gear.
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