water pump won't shut off - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-14-2019, 08:44 PM   #1
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water pump won't shut off

Just got our Scamp 13 in Nov. and have not camped in it yet. Put it in my work shop and have enjoyed working on it over the last month or so. Today I turned the water faucet on for the first time and antifreeze came out immediately. Good to see the previous owner winterized. Heard the pump kick on but when I closed the water faucet it sounded like the pump kept running. Waited a few min. to see if it would shut off and when it did not I turned the water faucet on and off again quickly to see if that might stop it. When that did not work I disconnected the battery and the pump stoped running. Then I reconnected the battery and it sounded like it was running again. I think my pump is stuck on and so the battery is disconnected now but I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or might be able to suggest a solution or if the pump needs to be replaced?The Scamp is a 2005 model 13. I can check on the manufacturer of the pump if that info would help. Let me know what you think. I am new to RVing but pretty handy.
Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2019, 08:51 PM   #2
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Do you have a switch? You should be able to just turn it off without disconnecting the battery. If the switch doesn't work, it may have a short.

Do you have water in the line? If not, the pump will not generate enough pressure to close the demand switch. If you do have water in the lines, the demand switch may be bad.
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Old 12-14-2019, 08:59 PM   #3
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The switch on the side of the cabinet, turns the pump on.
A back pressure switch on the pump turns it off, but only if there is enough water to fill and pressure up the line.
There are several raesons why it may not shut off...
1] If your water heater bypass line is open to the tank it will run until the tank is full or you shut off the cabinet swtch.
2] If your fresh water tank is low or empty , there will not be sufficient water to pressure up the line.
3] You may have another faucet open , a shore water connection with a bad check valve, or the toilet leaking through.


A combination of a bad cabinet switch and low water level would do it, in which case just pull the fuse and check the switch.



The cabinet switch should act as a master switch and should shut the water pump off in any case. If that fails pull the fuse and call me, I will talk you through it until we find the problem.
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Old 12-14-2019, 11:36 PM   #4
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Water heater filling??

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Originally Posted by JPBrown View Post
Just got our Scamp 13 in Nov. and have not camped in it yet. Put it in my work shop and have enjoyed working on it over the last month or so. Today I turned the water faucet on for the first time and antifreeze came out immediately.
Thanks.
It could be as simple as the water heater is filling or you ran out of water in the fresh tank. Are you getting water from the hot faucet?
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:29 AM   #5
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It sounds like you are not sure it's running: "it sounded like it was running". When pumps have air in them, they keep running and they are very quiet.

I suggest leaving the faucet open long enough to get any air purged out. The pump will pump air, but will not come up to full pressure while doing it. When pumping water, the pump will be louder and there will be no mistake about it running. Then close the faucet and see if it stops.

Just make sure you are not dealing with air before you decide the pump is bad.
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Old 12-15-2019, 07:56 AM   #6
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If it pumped out antifreeze, the fresh water tank should be empty, so no water to pump but the pump keeps trying.


Like others said, there is a switch to turn the pump on and off.
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Old 12-15-2019, 02:35 PM   #7
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There is a pressure adjustment on RV water pumps. It's operated by a little allen screw on some models of pumps.

If the pressure were set too high, the pump might not shut off.

If there were a leak that prevented any pressure from building, the pump won't shut off.

If the leak was a bypass internal to the pump, and it wasn't developing any pressure, it would not shut off.

Maybe you can temporarily mount a pressure gauge, perhap via an adapter on a faucet strainer thread or on a shower hose. That would tell you what sort of pressure you are actually developing, if any.

How To Adjust The Pressure Switch On A SHURflo Water Pump
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Old 12-15-2019, 03:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post
There is a pressure adjustment on RV water pumps. It's operated by a little allen screw on some models of pumps.

If the pressure were set too high, the pump might not shut off.

...........................

How To Adjust The Pressure Switch On A SHURflo Water Pump


Merely adjusting the pressure with the allen screw is what I have done for at least three previous water pumps over the years. Over time the screw can vibrate loose going down the road. Too many just buy a new pump.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 12-15-2019, 05:00 PM   #9
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Name: John
Trailer: 2005 Scamp 13
Illinois
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found the switch!

Hey everybody. I found the shut off switch for the water pump. I think the problem is as you said there is not enough liquid in the system for the lines to pressurize and shut the pump off. I will ta
test it tomorrow.
On another note, please find attached some pictures of my battery box lid. Can anyone tell me what the wire on the underside is for and the hole on top which seams to connect to the leads on the underside somehow. My guess is that I connect the top to the battery terminals and may use some type of battery tester to the hole on top so I can check my battery without removing the top? If anyone knows I would appreciate the help. Thanks,
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IMG_0375.JPG   IMG_0379.JPG  

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Old 12-15-2019, 05:43 PM   #10
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Master switch

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Originally Posted by JPBrown View Post
? If anyone knows I would appreciate the help. Thanks,
That's the key hole for a master disconnect switch. (not stock)
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Old 12-15-2019, 08:28 PM   #11
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Yes I have that master disconnect switch as well. Do you know how I hook it up?
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Old 12-15-2019, 09:33 PM   #12
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disconnect switch hookup

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Yes I have that master disconnect switch as well. Do you know how I hook it up?
On cars we always put it in the negative wire, on a fiberglass RV with a plastic battery box I would not think it would make much difference. Remove the negative wire from the battery and hook it to one of the connections on the switch, then run a jumper from the other switch connection back to where you removed the negative wire. Option 2: Cut the negative wire so that it will reach the disconnect, crimp on ring terminals and hook to the two new connections onto the switch.I do not use one so I have no pictures.
Note that the key for the pictured switch is a high failure item, I always had two keys in the cars. (or just be ready to re-wire)
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Old 12-16-2019, 08:50 AM   #13
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Thanks everybody! I'm sure I will be back with more silly questions soon
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:33 AM   #14
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The way I did my switch, and a way that I think is better than using this that type of switch on the battery box, is to put a switch inside the camper, first in line along the negative wire run, where it is protected from weather, vandalism, stray wiring in the battery box, etc. I use this type of switch which means there is no key to lose.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...th__Knob_-_Red

I also have a solar charge controller that bypasses the switch so that I can switch off the battery from all loads, but still have the PV panels charging it.

In any case, make sure you have an appropriate fuse very close to the battery's positive post.
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Old 12-17-2019, 07:26 PM   #15
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Name: John
Trailer: 2005 Scamp 13
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Thanks Gordon! I hooked up the battery cut off switch yesterday and it did not work, so I will probably rig up a system like yours as I plan to add solar panels anyway. If I need more help i will let you know.
J. Brown
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Old 12-21-2019, 12:39 PM   #16
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I'm sure you already know this but I wanted to make sure others didn't do something that would hurt their controller - The controller needs power from the battery to operate correctly (and can fry pretty quickly if it's only hooked up to solar). So, if you have a disconnect that allows the solar to reach the controller, just make sure your controller remains hooked up to the battery, i.e. it's fine to put a disconnect between the loads and the controller so long as that disconnect doesn't also isolate the controller from the battery.



Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
The way I did my switch, and a way that I think is better than using this that type of switch on the battery box, is to put a switch inside the camper, first in line along the negative wire run, where it is protected from weather, vandalism, stray wiring in the battery box, etc. I use this type of switch which means there is no key to lose.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...th__Knob_-_Red

I also have a solar charge controller that bypasses the switch so that I can switch off the battery from all loads, but still have the PV panels charging it.

In any case, make sure you have an appropriate fuse very close to the battery's positive post.
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Old 12-21-2019, 01:35 PM   #17
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Just got our Scamp 13 in Nov. and have not camped in it yet. Put it in my work shop and have enjoyed working on it over the last month or so. Today I turned the water faucet on for the first time and antifreeze came out immediately. Good to see the previous owner winterized. Heard the pump kick on but when I closed the water faucet it sounded like the pump kept running. Waited a few min. to see if it would shut off and when it did not I turned the water faucet on and off again quickly to see if that might stop it. When that did not work I disconnected the battery and the pump stoped running. Then I reconnected the battery and it sounded like it was running again. I think my pump is stuck on and so the battery is disconnected now but I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or might be able to suggest a solution or if the pump needs to be replaced?The Scamp is a 2005 model 13. I can check on the manufacturer of the pump if that info would help. Let me know what you think. I am new to RVing but pretty handy.
Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2019, 02:54 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by semievolved View Post
... The controller needs power from the battery to operate correctly (and can fry pretty quickly if it's only hooked up to solar). ...
SOME controllers need battery power to "start up" but not all. And frying is likely even less common. Lets instead say to read the manual and wire accordingly.
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Old 12-21-2019, 06:29 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
SOME controllers need battery power to "start up" but not all. And frying is likely even less common. Lets instead say to read the manual and wire accordingly.

Agreed. My Coleman 40 watt panel comes with a 7 watt controller. Plug panel into controller, plug alligator clip wire into controller and alligator clips to battery posts. Never a problem.
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Old 12-21-2019, 07:28 PM   #20
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It was done right

This p0robably just means the winterizing was done right. Or close to it. Generally the pump will run for a while if it is pumping air. And if the water header is empty which you want it takes a while to fill. Just not sure why it turned on when you turned the valve on.


Probably should leave it winterized at this point. Turn the switch off. And then be ready to flush the tanks and lines in the spring. And then to sanitize and get it ready to go. If you have never done this before get a fired who has to help you.
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