Water Regulator

[EugeneFlorida]

do I need a Water Regulator for the city water hose?
Water Regulator with 40 to 50 PSI?

this is for a 2016 13ft Scamp

Thanks for the help

[Anne H]

I've been told to always use a regulator when hooking up to city/campground water - not sure about the pressure - I think they are all the same.

Anne H

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by EugeneFlorida

do I need a Water Regulator for the city water hose?
Water Regulator with 40 to 50 PSI?

this is for a 2016 13ft Scamp

Thanks for the help

It's kind of like carrying a jack to change a flat tire. You probably won't need it, but if the pressure is too high and damages some water fittings the cost is a whole lot higher than the regulator.

[Bob Miller]

MY Answer is YES. I have encountered line pressures as high as 150+ PSI in campgrounds, and that can easily cause a leak or blow a fitting inside your new Scamp. Some campgrounds have to crank the line pressure that high to provide water to multiple sites and they will expect you to have a regulator to protect your rig. I have been asked on occasion if I have a regulator for that very reason. They are cheap insurance, <$10, why take a chance?


Always put the regulator at the hose valve end so you also protect your water hose.

[Darwin Maring]

Go to Walmart and buy one, they don't cost much, and always use it and you will not have to cry about your plumbing coming loose from excessive pressure later on.

[Donna D.]

I was at a campground in September that stated their water pressure was in excess of 90 PSI and a water regulator was absolutely necessary. I used one, but ended up blowing out two cheap water hoses anyway. I'm going to invest in a much better regulator for next season. As Bob said, they're cheap insurance.

[Darwin Maring]

The regulator needs to be on the campground faucet end however, if the hose is in the sun and it gets warm it can swell and eventually blow out. Use the best grade water hose.

You can also purchase an adjustable water pressure regulator with a gauge on it as additional insurance.

When I full timed at a Navy Campground, I custom made a water connection out of the black PVC flexible water tubing, wrapped a heat tape around it and covered it with the foam wrap and was good to go all year.

[Jon Vermilye]

I always use one. Even if you estimate that the pressure is not too high by letting it run out of the hose before hooking up, the pressure can change over time, particularly late night/early morning. Not the time you want to hear spraying water in the walls!

[gordon2]

Looks like six FOR and zero against (so far).. but another option is just fill your on-board tank and use that.

Just about every time I hooked up to "City" water (using a pressure regulator by the way), I have had a slow and steady drip from the hose, faucet and / or regulator. Half the time it leaves a muddy mess. And this even with new washers. Filling the tank and then stowing the hose solves that problem and is one less thing to deal with when its time to leave. (Of course if you go through more than one tank you have to get the hose out again to fill the tank). Of course if you have pressured "city" water but no electric service you might want to use the "city" water to avoid running the pump.. unless you have a hand pump.. so many variables!

[floyd]

Get the brass regulator, the blue plastic ones are too often junk.
Also, get a filter. They sell a good one at Walmart.
I use a filter and a pressure regulator because you can never tell what kind of junk might come from shore water and the filter will keep sand and dirt from getting into the camper.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Looks like six FOR and zero against (so far).. but another option is just fill your on-board tank and use that.

Just about every time I hooked up to "City" water (using a pressure regulator by the way), I have had a slow and steady drip from the hose, faucet and / or regulator. Half the time it leaves a muddy mess. And this even with new washers. Filling the tank and then stowing the hose solves that problem and is one less thing to deal with when its time to leave. (Of course if you go through more than one tank you have to get the hose out again to fill the tank). Of course if you have pressured "city" water but no electric service you might want to use the "city" water to avoid running the pump.. unless you have a hand pump.. so many variables!

A lot of FGRV peeps go for full hook-up and often for extended stays making tank filling and limited water flow for showers from a pump sometimes a drag. Not only that, you could wind up with a full tank of water when you are ready to leave and have to haul that around or (gasp!) waste it by dumping it.

Different camping styles call for different camping styles.....

[Dan Meyer]

Do you need a water pressure regulator? I say no.

If you have a water heater in your camper, and turn it on with cold water in the tank and allow it to heat up, you will see whatever pressure the relief valve on the heater is set to, usually 150 pounds.

Having said that, I've installed a water pressure meter in my camper; if I see water pressure in a campground over 70 PSI (or so), I use my pressure regulator.

--Dan Meyer
http://scamp.n0kfb.org/

[Glenn Baglo]

What if the water pressure changes when you're not looking?

[Dan Meyer]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

What if the water pressure changes when you're not looking?

I don't worry about it; life is too short.

My plumbing system handles the 150 PSI created when I fire up my cold water heater, and I (try to remember to) turn the campground water off when I leave the campsite for the day.

--Dan Meyer
http://scamp.n0kfb.org/

[gordon2]

[QUOTE=Bob Miller;560929
Different camping styles call for different camping styles.....[/QUOTE]


Which is why I pointed out "so many variables!"

But thanks for making my point for me.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

What if the water pressure changes when you're not looking?

The regulator regulates it.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

... Not only that, you could wind up with a full tank of water when you are ready to leave and have to haul that around or (gasp!) waste it by dumping it. ...

Its so funny to hear from people form California.. where the temps stay temperate but water is scarce.. Around here we don't bat an eye at dumping 10 gallons of water.. heck, even a few 100 on the lawn just to make it pretty is no issue at all.

Actually is you are really hard up for water, then I would actually recommend the on-board tank method. It tends to encourage conservation and prevents the possibility of a ruptured hose which would dump water endlessly until discovered.

[Glenn Baglo]

But, isn't $12 for a regulator and peace of mind a small price to pay?
Gordon2. You need to read the thread again. I believe you and I are saying the same thing.

[Bob Miller]

The 150 PSI relief valve on water heaters is an emergency pop-off valve that opens only in the event of a run-away overheat. It does nothing to control or regulate pressure, it's not even in the water lines and, if it does open, you will have water all over the place.


If it were the case, every time I turned on the hot water in my RV or my house, the hot water would have higher pressure, but it doesn't.

[Dan Meyer]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

The 150 PSI relief valve on water heaters is an emergency pop-off valve that opens only in the event of a run-away overheat. It does nothing to control or regulate pressure, it's not even in the water lines and, if it does open, you will have water all over the place.


If it were the case, every time I turned on the hot water in my RV or my house, the hot water would have higher pressure, but it doesn't.

The valve on your water heater is a *combination* device. It opens when temperature is too high, or when pressure is too high. You are correct in that is does not control pressure.

The reason the water pressure in your house never gets high when your water heater comes on is two-fold. 1) you are not starting with cold water, so there is less expansion when the water heats up. 2) Your house probably does not have a one-way check valve where the water enters your house. This means that any expansion due to water heating is pushed back into the city water system. If it does have a check valve, you probably have an expansion tank that will limit the pressure rise.

--Dan Meyer
Dan and Dawn's Scamp Travel Trailer