water tank removal in a 13' scamp, bicycle rack, and update on progress - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:50 PM   #1
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Name: Wenonah
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Ohio
Posts: 58
water tank removal in a 13' scamp, bicycle rack, and update on progress

Hello Everyone,

Just wanted to say that I have been working diligently on my new, to me, 13' Scamp. I have replaced the cord port, recovered all of the cushions, (that was a chore!), and put on a new jack stand in the front that has a wheel on it. I now know how to use a circular saw, a pop rivet gun, and a staple gun. That may not sound like a lot, however, I am NOT handy and had to choose priority jobs. This leads me to my next task and a question for all of you.

I am really grossed out by the water tank in the Scamp. It is a 1989 Scamp and I don't see myself ever using it. To me, I think I would rather just have a few gallons of water on board. If I take out the tank, is that going to be a complex job. I assume there would be two holes in the floor that I would need to repair. Have any of you done that? Seems straight forward and simple but that's what I thought about the front jack stand...

I am also thinking about removing the propane tank,as I have no heater and would most likely do all of my cooking outside. The reason for that would be to put a bicycle carrier in that place. The only way I could do that is if it was ready made and I just put it in place. Any thoughts or suggestions for that?

Thanks in advance for all of your ideas and help. You guys always have great suggestions.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:56 PM   #2
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
If you choose to remove the water tank you need to pull up the bench . You will have to cut the silicone seal between the bench and the closet. There are fasteners inside the closet that go into the bench support. There are screws at the bottom of the bench into the floor and fasteners on the back side into the supports fastened to the wall.
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Old 06-02-2017, 03:22 PM   #3
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Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
Posts: 772
The bench is very easy to remove. There are just few screws between bench, floor and fiberglassed in wood on the side wall. I did it a month ago when found a leak between water tank and drain valve. Just a day before my planned 7K miles long trip :-)
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:04 AM   #4
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Name: Wenonah
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Ohio
Posts: 58
water tank removal

Thank you Sokhapkin and Steve. I too am getting ready to leave on a trip through the New England States. What would be the best way to close the remaining holes where the hoses would have been?
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:57 AM   #5
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Name: Mike
Trailer: !977 KingsleyGMC, 1968 Bailey Mikado
Nova Scotia
Posts: 114
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wenonah View Post
Hello Everyone,

Just wanted to say that I have been working diligently on my new, to me, 13' Scamp. I have replaced the cord port, recovered all of the cushions, (that was a chore!), and put on a new jack stand in the front that has a wheel on it. I now know how to use a circular saw, a pop rivet gun, and a staple gun. That may not sound like a lot, however, I am NOT handy and had to choose priority jobs. This leads me to my next task and a question for all of you.

I am really grossed out by the water tank in the Scamp. It is a 1989 Scamp and I don't see myself ever using it. To me, I think I would rather just have a few gallons of water on board. If I take out the tank, is that going to be a complex job. I assume there would be two holes in the floor that I would need to repair. Have any of you done that? Seems straight forward and simple but that's what I thought about the front jack stand...

I am also thinking about removing the propane tank,as I have no heater and would most likely do all of my cooking outside. The reason for that would be to put a bicycle carrier in that place. The only way I could do that is if it was ready made and I just put it in place. Any thoughts or suggestions for that?

Thanks in advance for all of your ideas and help. You guys always have great suggestions.
If it's a suggestion you want, leave the water tank alone. You may not want it but the next guy might like some water to wash the dishes or his face. Keep drinking water in a gallon jug.
Pour a cup of Javex ( US translation Clorox) in the tank and fill it with water..it will look better and probably smell better. Run the water through the pipes. After a day or so drain it and rinse..now you have a source of clean water. Trust me, you'll find it handy.

As for the propane, leave that alone as well. Put a bike rack on the back. You'll be cooking outside until the rain sets in, then it's a jar of peanut butter and a spoon, while you're looking out the window. lol
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Old 06-03-2017, 02:29 PM   #6
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Name: Wenonah
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Ohio
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Originally Posted by panhead_mike View Post
If it's a suggestion you want, leave the water tank alone. You may not want it but the next guy might like some water to wash the dishes or his face. Keep drinking water in a gallon jug.
Pour a cup of Javex ( US translation Clorox) in the tank and fill it with water..it will look better and probably smell better. Run the water through the pipes. After a day or so drain it and rinse..now you have a source of clean water. Trust me, you'll find it handy.

As for the propane, leave that alone as well. Put a bike rack on the back. You'll be cooking outside until the rain sets in, then it's a jar of peanut butter and a spoon, while you're looking out the window. lol
Mike, you are not the first person with that suggestion. I will probably do both, give it a year and see if I really do want to remove them...
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Old 06-03-2017, 03:37 PM   #7
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Name: Kathy
Trailer: Scamp 13
Idaho
Posts: 34
Once I had a bike mounted on the front of a pop-up. There was a constant risk of squishing it if turning too sharply. You might have more distance, but perhaps you should do some measuring first.
However, I would agree to leave the propane. You might just find you like it, if not there's always another day.
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:38 PM   #8
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Name: Terry
Trailer: Scamp 13
Illinois
Posts: 50
We never used our water tank and I debated removing it for two years. We either connect to city water or if remote camping, use a 5-gallon water jug on the picnic table. And, I would much rather have the storage space, so I removed it. I put-off removing it; I was thinking about the next owner, but finally decided it is my trailer and the next owner can either buy it or not. Took 5 minutes to remove with my jig saw; I used a couple of the pieces of the polyethylene, some RTV and SS screws to cover the holes in the floor, removed the pump faucet and plugged the inlet with a rubber plug. We now have a huge storage space under the seat.
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Old 06-04-2017, 03:48 PM   #9
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Name: Wenonah
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Ohio
Posts: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry M View Post
We never used our water tank and I debated removing it for two years. We either connect to city water or if remote camping, use a 5-gallon water jug on the picnic table. And, I would much rather have the storage space, so I removed it. I put-off removing it; I was thinking about the next owner, but finally decided it is my trailer and the next owner can either buy it or not. Took 5 minutes to remove with my jig saw; I used a couple of the pieces of the polyethylene, some RTV and SS screws to cover the holes in the floor, removed the pump faucet and plugged the inlet with a rubber plug. We now have a huge storage space under the seat.
Terry,

Thanks for the other viewpoint. Rereading this I thought "why not take it out and put it in the attic?" If the next owner wants it, he can put it back. I like the water jug idea, very easy fix. What are RTV and SS screws? You also had to take out the seat, correct or did you just cut up the container?
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Old 06-04-2017, 04:21 PM   #10
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Name: KAY
Trailer: SCAMP
Missouri
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I will be doing the cleaning and salvaging to my tank (whenever I get it back from the shop), by adding the 4" marine deck plate so I can get in and scrub it. The exterior filler is shot, and I am considering changing to a hose connection for filling. Currently my entire plumbing system is a no go, so that handy jug I have had for all my previous experiences in the wild serves me well.

See the recent thread from forum member StephLeach. She was kind enough to post some pictures of her fresh water system upgrade.
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Old 06-04-2017, 04:54 PM   #11
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Name: Terry
Trailer: Scamp 13
Illinois
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I did not remove the seat, I knew I was never going to re-install it, and several years ago, I removed the water tank from my boat and stored it in my garage attic until I finally threw it in the dumpster. - After removing the hold down straps, the inlet hose and the drain I just cut it up with my jig saw. With the hoses disconnected you can move it around enough to be able to cut it up in pieces small enough to get it out through the seat opening. Saving it for the next owner was never a concern. I did kept the faucet after removing it, covering the hole with a piece of 1/8-inch PVC sheet and I left the water line to the faucet in place, new tanks are cheep if the next guy wants to replace it. I covered the drain holes in the floor with some of the scrap tank material. I secured the underside hole patch, with 3M Fast Cure 4000 UV marine adhesive sealant and a couple of stainless steel sheet metal screws. I also installed a patch covering the inside holes in the floor under the seat but used marine silicone sealant, (RTV) and SS screws. Silicone sealant is more than adequate but I had some 4000 UV so I used it on the bottom patch. By removing the water tank we gained enough storage space to store our sleeping bags, tools, my Viair compressor, hiking boots and hiking poles, a machete and a small axe. Don't worry about the next guy, make your Scamp the way YOU want it.
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Old 06-04-2017, 06:53 PM   #12
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
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Originally Posted by likeair2me View Post
I will be doing the cleaning and salvaging to my tank (whenever I get it back from the shop), by adding the 4" marine deck plate so I can get in and scrub it. The exterior filler is shot, and I am considering changing to a hose connection for filling. Currently my entire plumbing system is a no go, so that handy jug I have had for all my previous experiences in the wild serves me well.
Might want to reconsider that hose connection unless you add a vent line too. As you fill the tank the air has to go somewhere .
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Old 06-04-2017, 06:59 PM   #13
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Name: KAY
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Missouri
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Good point Dave, I forgot that the flip top filler is kind of a burp outlet.
OK then! Back to original it is! 8D
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:08 PM   #14
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Name: Brett
Trailer: Scamp 13'
New York
Posts: 13
You mentioned in another thread that you were looking for a 3-way fridge. You may want to keep the propane tank for that. Also, the stove is super nice to have to make a cup of coffee when it is cold and rainy out in the morning.
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Old 06-04-2017, 11:25 PM   #15
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Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
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Originally Posted by likeair2me View Post
Good point Dave, I forgot that the flip top filler is kind of a burp outlet.
OK then! Back to original it is! 8D
Your tank has the vent line coming off it. You could come off that with a loop higher than the tank and drop it through the floor with a screen cover for bugs and such and then still use the hose bib fill. For the standard water fill, I use a 24" piece of supply hose from a clothes washer when I replaced the old ones and I can run it down almost into the tank. BTW, if you do go with a standard filler, I would suggest using the one with a screw on cap behind a locked door instead of just a flip lid.....to easy for someone to drop something in the tank .
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Old 06-05-2017, 05:09 AM   #16
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Name: KAY
Trailer: SCAMP
Missouri
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Yeah, it's that easy access to dirt, bugs and little kids that has always made me dislike the flip up fillers. I will look into the other option. My son at three, thought the heater register openings were a great place to put crayons.
Thank you!
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