What do you think is the ultimate battery setup? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:21 AM   #21
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Name: Douglas
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minke View Post
I'd like to understand that. Could you elaborate please?


thanx,,,
I explain it in my post about installing a lithium battery in a Lil Snoozy. The short version is that the tow vehicle alternator usually produces voltage too low to fully charge the LFP battery. And the TV will discharge the trailer LFP battery to charge the TV battery. A DC/DC converter bumps up the voltage going to the trailer LFP battery so it can fully charge. It also serves as a battery isolator if your TV doesn't have one. All explained in my post.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ozy-85205.html

I agree with everything Carl said in his post.
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:38 AM   #22
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Name: Michael
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Alberta
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I hope it helps
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Old 12-03-2018, 01:32 PM   #23
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Name: alan
Trailer: looking
Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Doug View Post
I explain it in my post about installing a lithium battery in a Lil Snoozy. The short version is that the tow vehicle alternator usually produces voltage too low to fully charge the LFP battery. And the TV will discharge the trailer LFP battery to charge the TV battery. A DC/DC converter bumps up the voltage going to the trailer LFP battery so it can fully charge. It also serves as a battery isolator if your TV doesn't have one. All explained in my post.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ozy-85205.html

I agree with everything Carl said in his post.

I got it. Thank you.
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Old 12-04-2018, 01:42 AM   #24
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A LiFePo4 based battery system is certainly the “ultimate” at this point. Plenty of DIY examples on YouTube and it’s cheaper than lead-acid figuring the total life cycle cost, but I’m not sure many of us will really see the thousands of charge-discharge cycles of Li before ruining it some other way. A good charger and a shunt-based battery monitor that shows Ah in & out is probably the most important thing regardless of battery chemistry.
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:14 AM   #25
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Name: Fredrick
Trailer: Escape 21C
Tennessee
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connect?

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Originally Posted by M Scott View Post
How do you connect the 100 watt flexible solar panels to the trailer? Would appreciate a step-by-step process for this greenhorn. Thanks.
The 120W free-standing solar panels for our Indepencence 17" are supplied in a stiff case with the panels folded inside. The 20' cable connects to the trailer w a simple jam fitting wh came as a factory-installed upgrade. When traveling or at a campground with electric hookups, we carry/store the case standing upright in the back floorboard of the dbl-cab Frontier truck. The case can be carried inside the camper, but then we have to move it around more.
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Old 12-05-2018, 07:01 AM   #26
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Name: p@
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"perfect" for me: a pair of 250 amp hour 6 volt agm golf cart batteries (from trojan). 2 100w solar panels. one on the roof of the trailer that's connected all the time (charges going down the road) and one on the roof of the cap on my frontier tv (can be moved to the sun if the trailer is shaded). shunt based battery condition meter (victron), battery disconnect switch and a 3000w inverter. failsafe element is a honda 2000 mounted permanently over the propane tanks and hard wired to the trailer's converter.

please remember i said "for me". i've reached the point that i'm not going to spend any more $ on the system and enjoy the fruits of my labor and dollars.

p@
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:02 AM   #27
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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I don't think that there is a perfect battery system as the needs vary with the user.
There are better and more better solutions.
The LiPO might be more long term cost effective, but many of us are restricted to what is possible today. Heck I might not even live long enough for the LI PO to pay off!
I have 300 watts installed flat on the roof and the efficiency in the winter is pretty low with short hours, shallow angle, overcast days, and trees shading the trailer,
My plan is to replace the two Grp 27 NAPA 8301 (one is the Trolling motor battery for my boat, the other already in the Scamp) with a pair of golf cart batteries.
Every solution is a compromise, even LiPo.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:12 AM   #28
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Name: bill
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Ultimate battery setup, lithium hands down. Ultimate setup considering cost, AGM.
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:47 AM   #29
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Name: Michael
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I think your system would be perfect for a lot of folks.
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Old 12-05-2018, 12:29 PM   #30
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
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I've had good success with the group 27 flooded lead acid deep cycle batteries. I never take them below 50% - 60% of their full charge and recharge them within 2 - 3 days. I learned this lesson the hard way. The salesman where I bought my first trailer told me I should cycle my batteries regularly so I did. Half way through the second season they failed. The salesman told me they failed because I didn't cycle them during the winter. I should have known he lied when I saw his lips moving.
Without the "cycling" thing I get about 7 years life out of my batteries, at an average of 20 uses per season before they lose half their power.

During the off season my batteries live in my garage on a battery maintainer.

I've been using solar panels for 10 years. I boondock a lot, often for a week or more at a time. I bought a new group 27 flooded lead acid deep cycle battery to use only with the solar panels, just to see how well this arrangement would work. I parked my trailer in the back country for three months this year. I left my battery in place using only the solar panels. I used the battery indicator in my trailer (likely not very accurate) the check the state of charge daily. It always indicted a full charge. When I brought my unit home at the end of the season my smart charger said the same thing.
I'm suspecting that constant solar charging means that my battery never goes below 85% - 90% capacity compared to 50% - 60% capacity before the solar panels when I took them home to charge? Maybe this prolongs battery life? I'll see how season 11 goes.

My only concern is leaving my battery unattended in the back country and having it stolen. I don't want to install it inside my trailer as these batteries can off gas and explode. This season I'll be using an AGM battery, installed inside the trailer to see how this arrangement works.
Some things learned, much left to learn.
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:43 PM   #31
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Name: Martin
Trailer: Trillium 4500 1977
Quebec
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A single decent quality 12V battery can provide several hours (Likely over a week)of power to LED lights. It might be more economical and lighter to find a high intensity LED for reading and forger about the need and cost for second battery, solar panel, solar power regulator, etc.
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