Wheel bearing question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-12-2012, 01:05 PM   #1
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Wheel bearing question

We are up to ding the wheel bearings on our to-do list. The current bearings are good on one side and leaking on the other so we are trying to replace them.

Our question:
A; the ones we took out are marked KOYO HI-CAP JAPAN L44643R
We can't find any replacements with the R.
B; one of the caps has a 1/16 inch hole drilled in it, like maybe someone was going to install a zirc fitting. Should we replace that as well? (it's on the leaky side)

I know this will be a stupid question to somebody out there!
Thanks in advance for answering anyway!

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Old 03-12-2012, 01:33 PM   #2
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not sure what your asking,,,is it the seal your replacing?
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:48 PM   #3
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Take one complete set of bearings and seal from one side of the axle along with you to tractor supply and have them match them up to the new ones you need.

Timken Bearing L44643 L44610-Timken Bearing L44643 L44610 Manufacturers, Suppliers and Exporters on Alibaba.com
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:31 PM   #4
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Seal and bearings both. Not sure where we'd find a tractor supply around here. We can take it around to the auto parts houses.
Is the R an important part of the designation ? We can find the same number on the website but it doesn't have an R

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:48 PM   #5
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Trailer bearings and seals are pretty standardized, the R is not critical. You can check with an RV dealer, or find a local trailer fabrication shop. Many sell standard parts on the side. You might even find the parts at a big box store like Walmart in the RV section.


http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trai...and_Races.aspx
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:39 PM   #6
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I get my bearings at an auto parts store. the inner seals can be tricky sometimes as far as the outer diameter measurement. Take it with you to the parts store, see if there is a number on it. That outer measurement can be different by very little sometimes. Replace the cap or plug the hole somehow. If you're greasing the old ones, clean them good, I have a small parts washer, or I use gasoline [probably get comments on that!!] If you blow the bearings with air, DO NOT let them spin at high speed, they can fly apart. To grease the bearings, put a blob of bearing grease in the palm of your hand, I use the red stuff. Then press the edge of the bearing into the grease, working all around the circumference, and force grease up through the bearing. I always put grease in the hub, around the inside of it. Don't overtighten the nut, and use a new cotter pin. Bob
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:50 PM   #7
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He's having to do research on the seal, but it was no problem to find bearings at our local parts emporeum. Hopefully he'll find a seal. We got nice new shiny caps while we were at it.

Apparently the R is not important unless you want Pirate bearings (that's a joke)

Really hope the seal is findable since the number on it didn't ring any bells in the auto parts computer.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denece View Post
..........
Really hope the seal is findable since the number on it didn't ring any bells in the auto parts computer.
The seals are standardized just like the bearings. Check out the eTrailer link I posted above.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:17 PM   #9
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I'll have to slightly disagree with Thomas, MOST seals are standardized, but one of my trailers wouldn't take a standard seal. Fortunately I have an independent parts store here where the parts guys know how to measure a seal and look up the numbers in a book, not on the computer. I had to get a seal that was about .010" smaller outside diameter to fit in the hub. This is a rare circumstance, so you shouldn't have this problem. There's real partsmen, and those that just look on the computer and if the answer doesn't pop up they can't help.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:19 PM   #10
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I'll have to slightly disagree with Thomas, ..........
Good catch!

Now you were kidding about using gasoline for parts washing when fuel oil is so much safer and works just as well.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:45 PM   #11
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Smile

How come no one has mentioned anything about smoking, Duh
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:00 PM   #12
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Gasoline was recommended to me because it's a good solvent and if you let the bearing sit for few minutes after cleaning, the gas will vaporize and not effect the new grease.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:50 PM   #13
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Smile

It will, but fuel oil or kerosene is safer, just takes a little longer.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:00 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Gasoline was recommended to me because it's a good solvent and if you let the bearing sit for few minutes after cleaning, the gas will vaporize and not effect the new grease.
It's that same volatility that allows the vapors to be ignited by static electricity.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:21 PM   #15
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Since you have a Compact II this does not apply to you but this information may help others. If you were dealing with an EZ lube axel your seals would need to be double lip seals. If you take your demension numbers on the double lip seal to a local auto parts store they will more than likely give you single lip seals. I tried to find double lip seals locally at several auto parts stores but did not have any luck finding them. E-trailer and other trailer parts supplier sell double lip seals for the EZ lube axels.
Eddie
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #16
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I use rubbing alcohol for all sorts of things (cleaning). Use it to clean services B 4 putting stickers or decals on, cleaning bearings, etc. Not 2 expensive and not 2 dangerous.

Have used Gas very carefully outside in a well ventilated spot.

Fuel oil, coal oil, kerosene and JP4 are more dangerous than gas because they do not disperse as quick as gas and the fumes go to the low spots (Hugs the ground / floor). Drop anything that sparks and the fumes ignite.

JP4 for those that don't know is highly filtered and refined kerosene. We used it in our kerosene stoves in Korea.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #17
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Tractor Supply has a great selection of trailor parts.

I always take in the old part when purchasing a new one regardless of which store I go to because When you take your old part in you are sure to get the correct replacement. When you don't, Murphy will send you home with something regardless if it is right or not.

Tractor Supply Company - Stores by State


CALIFORNIA
ATWATER, BAKERSFIELD, CHICO, CLOVIS, DIXON, GALT, GILROY, LOS BANOS, OAKDALE, OROVILLE, PETALUMA, RED BLUFF, REDDING, RIPON, SONORA, TULARE, TURLOCK, UKIAH, WINDSOR, WOODLAND, YUBA CITY

Walmart also has bearings on the rack.

Take your grease seal with you. It should have a number on it also.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:06 PM   #18
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Wheel Bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denece View Post
We are up to ding the wheel bearings on our to-do list. The current bearings are good on one side and leaking on the other so we are trying to replace them.

Our question:
A; the ones we took out are marked KOYO HI-CAP JAPAN L44643R
We can't find any replacements with the R.
B; one of the caps has a 1/16 inch hole drilled in it, like maybe someone was going to install a zirc fitting. Should we replace that as well? (it's on the leaky side)

I know this will be a stupid question to somebody out there!
Thanks in advance for answering anyway!

Your leaking side is the seal on that side. To do a bearing replacement you must drive the races out of the hub. If you don't have the tools most auto shops can pound them out and install them. If the bearing races look good you can clean them with Brake-Kleen sold at auto parts. If the cones show wear that is the part with rollers in it. Replace the bearings with new ones cup and cone. The cup is the part that is driven into the hub. Always replace the wheel seals. I hope I have helped you.
Chuck
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:47 PM   #19
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Success! It was a little hard to find the right parts but once he got them my handy hubby had no problem getting everything done. Only problem was he read the tire thread while he was waiting and wouldn't put the wheels back on until they had new Maxxis tires on them!

Oh well. They last for lots of. Miles!
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #20
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Could someone help me out with a link to the thread talking about Greasing Wheel Bearings? There was a great diagram and pointers to doing it yourself.

I saw it recently but can't seem to pull it up now that I want it.

Anything unique with a uhaul ct13?
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