Where to mount mobility scooter??

[H. Fred Fuller]

I have a 13' 1976 Trillium which I thought was in good shape.(1,800USD) It was clean outside & inside, the refrig, stove, furnace, sink faucet all worked. Then through the forum I learned that my axle is shot! (only a short 1 1/2 in clearance from the top of the tires), the frame is weak,(don't use a WDH) and a few other things. For which I'm glad I found out before starting my grand adventure. This forum has also gave me the courage to try to make the corrections myself, and' with a little help from my friends'

I have the body on blocks and the frame on the floor., I plan on making the frame from 3x2x1/8 inch and 4x2x1/8 inch box tubing.

I need a mobility scooter if I'm to go very far, over 75-100 ft. or so.

I need help, on where to mount a platform for the scooter, figure about 300 lbs. for weight.

I would also be interested in any ideas on how to improve on the original frame.

My plan so far is to use the 4x2 boxing for the frame sides from the axle forward straight then a cross member, and then make the a -frame. the 3x2 tubing would run straight back in the original design.( I may extend the rear bumper 20" longer than original)

Any ideas, help, suggestions would be appreciated.

FRED.............................

[Pete Dumbleton]

Fred, I know it looks tempting to put the scooter on the back, but the very worst thing one can do to induce sway is to put weight as far to the rear as possible on a trailer. That's made even worse by the fact that the tongue of the trailer is short...

To me, the obvious solution is to extend the tongue enough to create a platform for the scooter. Not only will this help significantly with sway (it will be better than stock), but the longer tongue will made the egg much easier to back up.

Were I you, I'd be taking the egg to a good welding shop to see what they can do to stiffen the frame and lengthen the tongue.

[Greg A]

Will the scooter tow it?

[H. Fred Fuller]

Fred, I know it looks tempting to put the scooter on the back, but the very worst thing one can do to induce sway is to put weight as far to the rear as possible on a trailer. That's made even worse by the fact that the tongue of the trailer is short...

To me, the obvious solution is to extend the tongue enough to create a platform for the scooter. Not only will this help significantly with sway (it will be better than stock), but the longer tongue will made the egg much easier to back up.

Were I you, I'd be taking the egg to a good welding shop to see what they can do to stiffen the frame and lengthen the tongue.

Do you think the steel I intend to make the frame is strong enough or do you think it would also need stiffing?

Reread my post for frame plan and material and let me know what you think.

FRED..............................

[Curtis F.]

Ok, here are some pictures of the front platform that go with the pictures from the "Trillium trunk" thread.

Front view.

[Curtis F.]

Left side of platfom. The base is Stainless Steel treadplate. It is not very thick but is heavy. Reinforcing frame undernest keeps if from flexing much. I can measure it if someone really needs to know.

[Curtis F.]

Right side of the platform




Ramp set for loading

[Curtis F.]

View of ramp from distance. It will load from either side.

[Curtis F.]

Underside of the ramp showing reinforcement pieces and mounting of nuts for attachment screws. Ramp is Aluminium treadplate. Reinforceing framework is 1" square alluminium box tube. Takes special welder. In the center of the top edge of the ramp is a little lip that is added to hold the center of the ramp infront of the platfrom framework.

[Curtis F.]

Close up of ramp showing lip that is used to hook on the platform.





Close up of the mount for the ramp

[Pete Dumbleton]

Fred, I really don't have any experience doing frames to advise you on this beyond the weights and balances stuf. Curtis's rig looks like a good way to do it, esp with a side ramp.

[Curtis F.]

Fred, what kind of arrangement are you going to use for the tongue? Are you going to recreate the Trillium "torsion" configuration, just bend the frame rails in to make the tongue, or something really creative like a 5th wheel hitch?

Regardless of what you are going to do with the bent part of the tongue, I would put another frame cross member just behind the point where the tongue begins the bend to make the tongue.

If you are thinking about putting a hitch receiver on the back, add another cross member about a foot forward of the rear bumper. By tying the hitch receiver to both the bumper and another cross member much of the twisting and flexing will be resisted by the leverage from the front attaching point.

My welding shop told me the steel was just common mild steel. I don't know about it's strength limits.

Curt

[H. Fred Fuller]

Fred, what kind of arrangement are you going to use for the tongue? Are you going to recreate the Trillium "torsion" configuration, just bend the frame rails in to make the tongue, or something really creative like a 5th wheel hitch?

Regardless of what you are going to do with the bent part of the tongue, I would put another frame cross member just behind the point where the tongue begins the bend to make the tongue.

If you are thinking about putting a hitch receiver on the back, add another cross member about a foot forward of the rear bumper. By tying the hitch receiver to both the bumper and another cross member much of the twisting and flexing will be resisted by the leverage from the front attaching point.

My welding shop told me the steel was just common mild steel. I don't know about it's strength limits.

Curt

Curtis

First I would like to thank you for your quick response. I have printed your pictures to show my welder of your modifications. I really appreciated the detailed pictures you took. Those pictures will really be helpful when I meet with the welder to formalize our plans.

Thanks to for the pointers on the extra cross members.

I'm going to use Flexiride torsion axles, either 3000# or 3500# with 10" elect. brakes. The tongue will be like the new Trillium or Outback tongue.

I'm not able to get on line everyday so once in a while it takes me a couple of days to respond.

Thanks Again. FRED.....................................

[Curtis F.]

Fred; when laying out the frame don't forget to allow for the front overhang of the shell. Without going out to measure, I think it is about 3 inches from the most forward point of the shell at the belly band to the forward point at the frame.

Also, you will need to leave adequate space in front of the platform. The propane bottles and a cover need to be far enough forward not to interfer with the ramp mounting.

You are going to want atleast 2" on each side of the scooter for mounting some kind of tie down anchor points. If you look at my pictures you will see an eye-bolt in the corner by the ramp mount. I have one in each corner for tie down points. The rope you see is for attaching the hooks from the cargo net over the BBQ cover.

I didn't worry about the getting the scooter over the inch and a fraction of the angle iron platform frame. Not a be problem getting the scooter over lip. Just take a few inches of running start on the platform and over it goes.

Also, don't forget to add the thickness of the finished ramp to the length of the platform.

So to figure the length of the platform: width of the scooter or 28" which ever is more: plus" 2" on each side: plus thickness of ramp.

So, for placement of the platform: make sure it is forward of the furthest forward point of the shell as measured at the belly band. make sure there is no interference from the propane bottles and cover in front.

Curt