Window Covering Insulation Fabric

[Lisa H.]

I just returned from my local JoAnn's Fabric store where they had a lot of decorator fabrics, foam, and linings on sale for 50% off. I discovered a product called "Warm Windows Insulated Shade System" that would be far superior to reflectix for use as a window covering insulator. The reason. . . the reflectix would be too stiff for the Roman shades I am planning on making and would not allow the shades to pleat properly. This stuff has a layer of moisture resistant fabric, a relective polyethylene vapor barrier, and a metallicized Mylar with needled air-trapping polyester fibers. Apparently, "Warm Windows" is quite popular on the East coast as it is primarily used to keep heat from escaping through your windows. The instruction guide I purchased says that Warm Windows reduces heat loss by more than 81% and reduces solar heat gain through windows by up to 79%. Not too shabby, eh?

The fabric is designed with 4"-wide quilted channels, which enable crisp pleats to form once the shade is raised. Additionally, you adhere a magnetic strip to the metal window frame and sew complemetary strips into the edges of the shade. The shade then seals the airspace around the window and prevents heat loss. I think this system is ingenious and will work perfectly for the trailer. Furthermore, there are "no-sew" methods for using this material if you do not have a sewing machine (or care to use one!)

It comes in 45" and 60" widths and runs about $22.00 & $25.00 a yard respectively. My 50% coupon made a world of difference and I was able to buy the exact yardage required for the project. If you don't have a JoAnn's nearby you can also purchase it online and they frequently have coupons for online purchases as well. Just get on JoAnn's mailing list!

For more information the manufacturer's website is: www.warmcompany.com

[Bobbie Mayer]

I used Warm Windows fabric many years ago for curtains in my bedroom, and then moved and resized them for another house. I think they would work well in the trailer. They were a pain to make but apparently now the fabric has changed so that you no longer need to sew each ring for the pull mechanism on individually like I had to. You could choose any facing fabric, though as part of this shows through on the outside, it does fade. I still have them in my room and they are still working, more than twenty years later.

Bobbie

[Helen]

They work just great! I made them for my Trillium this winter, used iron-on fabric glue to secure the muslin top to the liner. I also used the glue-on magnets because the Trill's windows are set at an angle, they would have dropped straight, leaving a gap at the bottom. First time out this year, in March, it snowed and was nasty cold outside. I swear the windows really helped keep in the heat. Here's a picture... it's a little bit hard to get detail because the muslin is the same color as the ensolite.
Helen

[Connie M.]

How do the window coverings raise? Do you sort of fold them up and then use the magnetic strips to keep them up? That is, if you don't want Roman shades, just something quick and easy.
Also, my Trill has the window cranks, so I guess I'd have to cut a notch so the covers would lay flat and close-in.
Anyway, the insulating factor sure sounds nice!

[Lisa H.]

How do the window coverings raise? Do you sort of fold them up and then use the magnetic strips to keep them up? That is, if you don't want Roman shades, just something quick and easy.

For the Roman shades, you buy the cording and pull mechanism. If you wanted a simpler method it would be easy enough to place velcro in strategic locations along the sideseams and just roll the shade up. The magnets are used to adhere the shade and insulation material to the window to elliminate any heat transfer through the windows.

[Connie M.]

Thanks, Lisa. I'm not much of a seamstress, so simple is always better for me. I just bought some really cool fabric to make some seat cushion slipcovers, so maybe I can coordinate. (The cushions are in really great shape, just very 70's.)

Helen, are yours Roman shades? I liked the sleek look in your pictures.

Next trip to town I'll stop at JoAnn's, as I saw that they were currently out-of-stock online. I'm also thinking about miniblinds, but am not sure about their darkening and durability.

[Helen]

Connie, I chose the Roman Shades specifically for the clean look and the insulating effects. I will have to admit however, the warm windows insulation wasn't avaliable at Joanns when I set out to make them so I bought thin quilt batting (50% off at the time!) to use for the window side of the shades. No doubt not quite as effective (no metalic liner) in reflecting the heat but I'm happy with the results.

Putting the shades together, after doing the first one, was fairly easy. I usually sew everything, however, this time I used the iron on strips and I'm very pleased with how it turned out. No seam lines made the look even cleaner. To add just a bit of dimension I 'tied' on the little o-rings for the pull cords in using 'quilters knots' on the front. I had to do a bit of modification attaching them to the Trill's upper cabinets. They recommend stick-on velcro and strips of wood to attach the shade to the wall or ceiling. I used the velcro but just bought tiny eye bolts and screwed them in to the upper cabinet to run the pull cords through.

The magnet strips work well inside the outer hem of the shades, however, they didn't want to stick to the aluminum frame of the windows. I had to experiment in finding an appropriate glue that wouldn't damage the frame but keep stay in place when the shades were down. Although the original out-of-factory Trill had curtains I decided to go this direction. I like them a lot better than the blinds (old, yellowing, cracked, etc.) that the previous owner had installed. Work in progress but I'm happy with the results.

[Coach George Jessup]

Roman shade? Have not got a clue what that is. I'm a guy... we don't pay attention to shade names

I'm assuming this thing folds ever couple of inches and attaches to itself to stay folded or to the window frame when unfolded.

If that is the case.... and also with other shades.... consider having them go UP instead of down. As in have the part of the shade attached permanently be at the bottom of the window instead of the traditional, at the top. This allows you to have the shade cover the bottom of the windows and leave an opening at the top.

With this you can do things like... have the shade open half way when your beautiful wife is in her slinky night clothes, and also not give neighbors a show even though the shades are half way open and your in your birthday suit, exiting the trailer shower and getting dressed etc etc.

My sis did this in her whole home and it was like an epiphany to me ..... why in the heck aren't all homes that way.... it makes so much sense.

[Helen]

I actually gave some thought to having the shades pull up from the bottom but couldn't figure out how to do it. The Trillium has lots of nice big windows but, since we're really tall people,(both husband and wife over 6') we decided we wouldn't be able to opt for the skimpy nighty for either of us. The windows are set way to low in the Trillium for privacy whether we pull the shades up or down! Maybe if we crawled on the floor? Make the morning coffee on our knees? Interesting.... Helen

[Bonnie]

My local JoAnn's doesn't carry it. :

[Bobbie Mayer]

I'm thinking of just hemming some pieces large enough to cover the windows and putting Velcro hook on them (since my insulation is already Velcro loop) and attaching them in cold or hot weather as window coverings. I have some scraps from resizing the shades for windows in this house.

Bobbie

[Lisa H.]

My local JoAnn's doesn't carry it. :

You can special order anything that JoAnn's carries if you have a SKU#. Here is the SKU# for the 60" Ivory Warm Windows fabric: 364-9084. The 60" only comes in ivory but the 45" wide also comes in white. You may also use those lovely 40% off coupons from the JoAnn's ads on special orders. At my JoAnn's the salesperson in the decorator fabrics department had a binder that housed all the SKU#s and prices for the entire Warm Windows line. If you cannot find the fabric in the store then perhaps one of the nice salespeople can look up the specific product you are seeking in the binder (if you do not want the 60" ivory).

Good luck!

[Connie M.]

Boy, this topic is really spawning the ideas!
(Now, if only I could do the actual project as easily and pleasurably as reading these posts...)

Right now I'm thinking simple panels with Warm Windows and decorative cover, hung from the current close-fitting curtain rods, held in tight with either the magnetic strips or Velcro, and either roll-up with ties or Velcro, or to the side with tie-backs.

I have an old and plain Singer sewing machine. Will it handle Warm Windows or should I be thinking of that ironing stuff? (Okay, I know "that ironing stuff" has a name, but I haven't used it since about 20 years ago when I had to make a Sweet Adelines costume)

[Bobbie Mayer]

I have an old and plain Singer sewing machine. Will it handle Warm Windows or should I be thinking of that ironing stuff? (Okay, I know "that ironing stuff" has a name, but I haven't used it since about 20 years ago when I had to make a Sweet Adelines costume)

I just used my old Kenmore when I made them. A denim needle might make it easier, but I really don't recall any problems.

Hey, Lisa, they also might make a nice way to add insulation when needed to the pop-top- what I do now is put it down at night when it is really cold, but being able to put up insulation would work, too (someone else mentioned using Reflectix panels there.)

Bobbie