Winterizing a Casita - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-29-2021, 11:32 AM   #21
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About the "bypass valve" on the water heater. I recall reading somewhere that if there is pressure in the fresh water system and the valve is turned it can mess up the rubber "O"ring inside the valve.
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Old 09-29-2021, 11:35 AM   #22
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I use a small, 1 gallon? tank style compressor and I find myself wishing for a bigger one. It takes many refill stops to get the air pressure back up. Have heard of using those tankless compressors, but I haven't tried one.

Anyway, I get the job done, but it just takes longer.
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Old 09-29-2021, 06:13 PM   #23
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Locate your intake/suction side of your pump. Remove the hose/waterline fitting. Go to your local farm store and buy the matching fitting and a 3í length of vinyl tubing to attach to the fitting. Now attach this to the intake/suction side of your pump and insert the tube into your favorite RV anti freeze and turn on your pump. Repeat as needed to have the pink stuff coming out of all of the faucets/toilet/shower heads. You do not need to add AF to your fresh water tank..just drain it. Also donít need to blow out your water heater. Remove the anode and itíll drain out so that it wonít freeze.
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Old 09-29-2021, 09:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Romas View Post
About the "bypass valve" on the water heater. I recall reading somewhere that if there is pressure in the fresh water system and the valve is turned it can mess up the rubber "O"ring inside the valve.
If you drain the hot water heater and the fresh water tank and have the pump off then there's no pressure.
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Old 10-05-2021, 12:47 PM   #25
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Compressor & Step-by-Step Winterizing Method

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Originally Posted by Mr Lynn View Post
Can anyone recommend a small compressor like the one the guy in video was using? Maybe even American-made?
Sure. This is what I use.

Looking at the Casita You-Tube I see two issues:
  1. Before taking out the hot water heaterís anode, raise the lever on the pressure relief valve; after that tank has drained, close the lever on the pressure relief valve.
  2. Open the faucets one at a time; not all at once. If you open them all at once, as soon as one of them is clear, the pressure will escape from that fixture potentially leaving water in the lines to other fixtures.
The You-Tube referenced by Jack in post #12 (above) is the method that I use. Using Alanís step by step approach, you only need to put a small bit of antifreeze in the P-traps. The benefit here is that you donít need to un-winterize the water lines the next time you go camping. A side benefit is that a single jug of antifreeze will last for several seasons.

Here is a recap of Allenís You-Tube method from a post that I put on a FiberglassRV forum 2Ĺ years ago.
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Old 10-05-2021, 01:08 PM   #26
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Hot water heater not used

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Originally Posted by Mr Lynn View Post
We haven't used the water heater the last couple of years, so haven't had to drain it.
Until recently, I have not used the hot water heater in my Casita. However, when I pulled the anode for winterizing a week ago, the anode showed a lot of erosion, indicating that there had been water in the hot water heater much longer than a month ago.

My question is how do you avoid filling the hot water heater with water. I am not aware of a shut off valve. I do know there is a by-pass valve. Based on what is being stated, I have to assume that no water gets into the hot water heater if in by-pass?
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Old 10-05-2021, 02:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Penn View Post
Until recently, I have not used the hot water heater in my Casita. However, when I pulled the anode for winterizing a week ago, the anode showed a lot of erosion, indicating that there had been water in the hot water heater much longer than a month ago.

My question is how do you avoid filling the hot water heater with water. I am not aware of a shut off valve. I do know there is a by-pass valve. Based on what is being stated, I have to assume that no water gets into the hot water heater if in by-pass?
That's been my understanding; the by-pass valve directs the cold water line past the heater inlet, so no water can get into it. Otherwise, if you use antifreeze to winterize your lines, it would get into the water heater, too.

If I'm mistaken, please let me know. /LEJ
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Old 10-05-2021, 02:55 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by LarryB. View Post
Sure. This is what I use.

Looking at the Casita You-Tube I see two issues:
  1. Before taking out the hot water heaterís anode, raise the lever on the pressure relief valve; after that tank has drained, close the lever on the pressure relief valve.
  2. Open the faucets one at a time; not all at once. If you open them all at once, as soon as one of them is clear, the pressure will escape from that fixture potentially leaving water in the lines to other fixtures.
The You-Tube referenced by Jack in post #12 (above) is the method that I use. Using Alanís step by step approach, you only need to put a small bit of antifreeze in the P-traps. The benefit here is that you donít need to un-winterize the water lines the next time you go camping. A side benefit is that a single jug of antifreeze will last for several seasons.

Here is a recap of Allenís You-Tube method from a post that I put on a FiberglassRV forum 2Ĺ years ago.
Thanks, Larry for that Recap. I'm going to save it for reference.

That compressor/inflator you linked is no longer available. Does yours have a pressure level you can set at c. 20lbs? The video warns that if you use a simple tire inflator, you can over-pressurize the lines and risk rupturing one. I have an AVair 90 that I could use, but it doesn't have a max pressure setting.
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Old 10-05-2021, 04:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Penn View Post
Until recently, I have not used the hot water heater in my Casita. However, when I pulled the anode for winterizing a week ago, the anode showed a lot of erosion, indicating that there had been water in the hot water heater much longer than a month ago.

My question is how do you avoid filling the hot water heater with water. I am not aware of a shut off valve. I do know there is a by-pass valve. Based on what is being stated, I have to assume that no water gets into the hot water heater if in by-pass?
These bypasses use the cheapest three way valves out there. As a chemical engineer who worked in large chemical plants, three way valves were often leakers, and I am talking valves that cost $2,000 or more. A $10 three way valve? These things don't forever. Easy enough to test it. Hook up to city water with the hot water heater in bypass position, leave the anode rod out, and see if you. are getting water leaking by.
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Old 10-06-2021, 06:01 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
These bypasses use the cheapest three way valves out there. As a chemical engineer who worked in large chemical plants, three way valves were often leakers, and I am talking valves that cost $2,000 or more. A $10 three way valve? These things don't forever. Easy enough to test it. Hook up to city water with the hot water heater in bypass position, leave the anode rod out, and see if you. are getting water leaking by.
I still have water running in my hot water heater when using city water & bypass.
I have switched out the valves & still have this problem. What type of 3 way do you recommend?
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Old 10-06-2021, 08:19 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Lynn View Post
Thanks, Larry for that Recap. I'm going to save it for reference.

That compressor/inflator you linked is no longer available. Does yours have a pressure level you can set at c. 20lbs? The video warns that if you use a simple tire inflator, you can over-pressurize the lines and risk rupturing one. I have an AVair 90 that I could use, but it doesn't have a max pressure setting.
That Craftsman compressor doesn't have a pressure level setting. However it takes **SEVERAL** minutes to get beyond 30PSI so I interrupt the process several times to compensate.

I suppose I could use my pressure reducer inbetween the city water connection and the blow out plug to minimize the potential impact of higher pressure....
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