Winterizing a Casita - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-22-2021, 09:18 AM   #1
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Name: Kim
Trailer: 2008 Casita Freedom
Arkansas
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Winterizing a Casita

Is there a website that explains step by step how to winterize and also un-winterize a 2008 Casita? I believe I have the steps down for winterizing, but one of the steps says to pour antifreeze down your shower drain so it stays in the p-trap. I'm good with that, but does the t-handle drain valve that's in my closet need to be up (opened) or down (closed) to keep the antifreeze trapped in the p-trap?
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Old 09-22-2021, 10:04 AM   #2
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Name: Biker
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Texas
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Hi,


As a relatively new Casita owner, please do not take my list as gospel. It is something I had created while winterizing my trailer for the first time last year, and is the compilation of information received from the previous owner, this forum, and this video from Casita:





I am sure there are forum members, who are much more experienced than myself, that will comment/correct/add more if something from my list looks not completely right.


Hope it helps you out some.


connect blow-out plug
remove anode rod ("drain plug") - 1-1/16 socket - from hot water heater
open ALL faucets/outside shower

SET AIR COMPRESSOR TO MAX 55 PSI
attach compressor to blow-out plug
leave air connected for 2-3 minutes
you do not want any water, JUST AIR, coming out of faucets

disconnect air
put anode rod back in hot water heater
close all faucets

TURN hot water heater bypass valve to bypass position
put antifreeze in trailer
*IF YOU TIP TRAILER UP IN FRONT, MAY GET AWAY W/ ONLY USING 1-2 GALLONS OF ANTIFREEZE
pour 5 gallons of antifreeze in fresh water tank (NOTE: I think that I only used a few gallons)

TURN hot water heater bypass valve to bypass position
TURN water pump on

pump antifreeze from fresh water tank through the lines until it comes out all spigots (hot AND cold, AND shower head)
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:15 AM   #3
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Name: Jann
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Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcarver View Post
Is there a website that explains step by step how to winterize and also un-winterize a 2008 Casita? I believe I have the steps down for winterizing, but one of the steps says to pour antifreeze down your shower drain so it stays in the p-trap. I'm good with that, but does the t-handle drain valve that's in my closet need to be up (opened) or down (closed) to keep the antifreeze trapped in the p-trap?
The guy on the video must have stock in the anti-freeze company to use 5 gallons of anti-freeze in your water tank. We do not put any anti-freeze in the fresh water tank ever. It is hard to get out and tastes bad for a few tank fulls of water. We use our water for drinking and cooking. Get an extra connector that fits your water pump inlet side and put a piece of tubing on about 2-3 feet long. Hopefully you have the pump with the quick connect type fittings This is a 2 person process but takes about 5-10 minutes. First drain fresh water tank and hot water heater by removing the anode rod. This is a good time to clean the tank of all built up crude with one of those little sprayers made for that purpose. Next turn bypass valve on the hot water heater so no anti-freeze gets into it and will circulate through the hot water lines. Put a towel under the input side of the water pump and remove the line from the pump. You will get some residual water from the tank but if you've drained it good it's only about a cup. Put on the line you made onto the pump inlet side. Open jug of anti-freeze and put the open end of the line you made into it. Have someone turn on the pump and the kitchen faucet cold side, when pink comes through turn on the hot water side for a few seconds to make sure the water is out of it. Go to the bathroom and repeat above process for the sink and toilet. If you have the shower that hooks to your sink it shouldn't have any water in it. If you have an outside shower you'll have to do the same process for it. It usually takes us about 2 gallons or a little less. The anti-freeze that has went down the sinks usually is enough to protect them but you can add a little for safety. Open the rod for the shower drain and put some anti-freeze down it. When one jug of anti-freeze gets empty have the person shut off the pump while you get the second jug ready and the tube into it. When you are done remove the tube from the pump you made for winterizing and rehook the water line from the tank to it. We've done our 2007 Casita and all our other RV's like this since 1986 and have had no problems with any of them. In fact our Casita wasn't used for almost 3 years and still it was fine. We didn't have any problems this year when we used it.
We don't blow them out since the anti-freeze pushes all the water out.

In the spring we hook a water hose to the city inlet and run water through all the lines to rinse the anti-freeze out. Then we fill the water tank with about 1 cup of bleach that we dilute in a pan so that pure bleach doesn't hit the fill lines. Fill completely and run the bleach water through all the lines with the pump on. We like to drive it around the block to swish it around first but it is not necessary. Let sit a few hours to sanitize everything real good. Drain tank, refill with clean water and run it through the lines until all bleach water is out (You can put tank freshener in at this point also). Then drain and if you've put in a freshener you'll have to drain and refill and drain again. Turn hot water heater valve off of bypass and fill it with water. We usually hook the hose to city water so the pump doesn't have to run 6 gallons of water into it. Drain the water tank after you've done the hot water heater. At this time you can test your hot water heater function to make sure it is working. We usually drink from out tanks after the first couple of refills so that it has no taste at all. We take drinking water for the first few days of a long trip. Seems like a long process but the winterizing takes about 10 minutes and the dewinterizing takes time since you have to drain the tank 2-3 times but the filling of tanks takes the longest. Don't forget to close the shower drain rod.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:25 AM   #4
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Thanks. Have you tried this? When I put it on bypass for the hot water heater It will still pump antifreeze into the tank on my Casita.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:47 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by jgilliam1955 View Post
Thanks. Have you tried this? When I put it on bypass for the hot water heater It will still pump antifreeze into the tank on my Casita.
Yes we do it every year to our 2007 Casita that we bought new and our motorhomes. Never have any problems. Your bypass valve may be bad or have something stuck in it. Try turning it a few times on and off with the water pump off then on to wash it out. If that fails to stop liquid from going into the heater then the valve is bad most likely. Make sure you are turning the valve completely off. It is tricky in the place they put it to get it all the way off.
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Old 09-22-2021, 02:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jann Todd View Post
Yes we do it every year to our 2007 Casita that we bought new and our motorhomes. Never have any problems. Your bypass valve may be bad or have something stuck in it. Try turning it a few times on and off with the water pump off then on to wash it out. If that fails to stop liquid from going into the heater then the valve is bad most likely. Make sure you are turning the valve completely off. It is tricky in the place they put it to get it all the way off.
THANKS! I will try this.
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:35 PM   #7
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Trailer: Casita 17 ft SD
Colorado
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Winterizing

I open the hot and cold water faucets in the bathroom,
Remove the drain/anode in the water heater until drained,
Turn the bypass valve on the water heater to bypass the water heater,
I have installed a bypass valve on the water tank on the suction side of the water pump. I turn that valve to bypass and run the plastic tube into the antifreeze bottle.
Open the bathroom drain valve,
Turn the water pump on and let it run until I get antifreeze running out of the bathroom cold and hot water faucets. Turn off those faucets and flush the toilet.
Turn on the sink hot and cold water faucets until antifreeze comes out.
Turn off the water pump.
Remove the antifreeze bottle.
Turn the valve back to normal position.
Drain the water tank,
Reinstall the water heater drain.
Pour the extra antifreeze down the shower floor drain.
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Old 09-23-2021, 08:07 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by ehoepner View Post
I open the hot and cold water faucets in the bathroom,
Remove the drain/anode in the water heater until drained,
Turn the bypass valve on the water heater to bypass the water heater,
I have installed a bypass valve on the water tank on the suction side of the water pump. I turn that valve to bypass and run the plastic tube into the antifreeze bottle.
Open the bathroom drain valve,
Turn the water pump on and let it run until I get antifreeze running out of the bathroom cold and hot water faucets. Turn off those faucets and flush the toilet.
Turn on the sink hot and cold water faucets until antifreeze comes out.
Turn off the water pump.
Remove the antifreeze bottle.
Turn the valve back to normal position.
Drain the water tank,
Reinstall the water heater drain.
Pour the extra antifreeze down the shower floor drain.
I will install one of these next month. Thanks.
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Old 09-27-2021, 12:58 PM   #9
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Trailer: Casita - 2019 SD17
Idaho
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A tip for winterizing a Casita

Quote:
Originally Posted by biker View Post
Hi,

As a relatively new Casita owner, please do not take my list as gospel. It is something I had created while winterizing my trailer for the first time last year, and is the compilation of information received from the previous owner, this forum, and this video from Casita:


If you watch the linked YouTube video, you are told to open all of the faucets inside the trailer and not to worry about the water that will be sprayed around when you blow out the water lines during the winterizing process.

I am probably OCD, so when someone tells me not to worry, that is exactly what I do - WORRY! I have a simple solution to the water spray. Drape a damp hand towel over each faucet. The damp towel will prevent the water from spraying all over and will direct any water from the faucet into the sink. This saves having to wipe everything down after the blow-out process.

Just my two cents worth for that annual chore.

Now for a question. Is it really necessary to fill the water system in the trailer with antifreeze after a thorough blowout? It would seem that if the valves are cracked open slightly, there will be no place for pressure to build up and rupture the lines. There may be some drops of water, but not enough in my opinion to cause a problem in the valves or the water lines. Does everyone use antifreeze in their RV's? Are there alternatives?
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Old 09-27-2021, 01:20 PM   #10
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I use antifreeze because I can see it come out of the faucet, which is reassuring. And, I only open one tap at a time. Also, need to run the water pump for 15 seconds or so to clear it. The antifreeze that comes out of the faucet ends up in the P-trap. No antifreeze goes in the fresh water tank. It is pumped into the lines through the city water inlet.
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Old 09-27-2021, 02:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I use antifreeze because I can see it come out of the faucet, which is reassuring. And, I only open one tap at a time. Also, need to run the water pump for 15 seconds or so to clear it. The antifreeze that comes out of the faucet ends up in the P-trap. No antifreeze goes in the fresh water tank. It is pumped into the lines through the city water inlet.
GREAT IDEA!
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Old 09-27-2021, 02:54 PM   #12
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This Casita owner did a great job teaching winterizing.
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Old 09-27-2021, 02:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I use antifreeze because I can see it come out of the faucet, which is reassuring. And, I only open one tap at a time. Also, need to run the water pump for 15 seconds or so to clear it. The antifreeze that comes out of the faucet ends up in the P-trap. No antifreeze goes in the fresh water tank. It is pumped into the lines through the city water inlet.

Is this what you use, Plastic Winterizing Hand Pump Kit
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Old 09-27-2021, 05:01 PM   #14
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I have this one ( ignore Canadian price and source ).
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Old 09-27-2021, 07:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ehoepner View Post
I open the hot and cold water faucets in the bathroom,
Remove the drain/anode in the water heater until drained,
Turn the bypass valve on the water heater to bypass the water heater,
I have installed a bypass valve on the water tank on the suction side of the water pump. I turn that valve to bypass and run the plastic tube into the antifreeze bottle.
Open the bathroom drain valve,
Turn the water pump on and let it run until I get antifreeze running out of the bathroom cold and hot water faucets. Turn off those faucets and flush the toilet.
Turn on the sink hot and cold water faucets until antifreeze comes out.
Turn off the water pump.
Remove the antifreeze bottle.
Turn the valve back to normal position.
Drain the water tank,
Reinstall the water heater drain.
Pour the extra antifreeze down the shower floor drain.
Pretty much what we do. No need to blow anything out. We just have never put on the valve since room is limited. That is why we made a short tube with an extra connector on it since we have quick connects on our pump.
Even if you blow it out you need to run anti-freeze through the lines as there can be a low spot that does not empty out and it can freeze and break the pipe.
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Old 09-28-2021, 06:39 AM   #16
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Trailer: 2013 Casita Spirit Deluxe 17, purchased from original owners May, 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I use antifreeze because I can see it come out of the faucet, which is reassuring. And, I only open one tap at a time. Also, need to run the water pump for 15 seconds or so to clear it. The antifreeze that comes out of the faucet ends up in the P-trap. No antifreeze goes in the fresh water tank. It is pumped into the lines through the city water inlet.
I like the idea of not putting antifreeze in the fresh-water tank. I've done that in the past, and my wife complained about the taste, so last spring I flushed it a lot, which seemed to help. But avoiding it entirely seems like the better option.

I'll look and see about connecting directly to the pump. Or maybe get a hand pump and just use the city-water inlet.

BTW, your photo is of the fresh-water inlet, not the city one.

We haven't used the water heater the last couple of years, so haven't had to drain it. /LEJ

PS The video that Jack posted is interesting. He just blows out the lines (and the pump, and heater), and doesn't use antifreeze except in the traps. That'll certainly reduce any need for flushing when you run again. You need a compressor that you can set for a maximum pressure though, if you're going to pressurize before opening any valves.
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Old 09-28-2021, 06:59 AM   #17
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I've had my trailer for 7 years now--4 winters in an area where it freezes a few days and then 3 winters in a much colder climate where temps can get below zero. Temps will get into the single digits.

I blow out the lines with an air compressor and do that well. Then I only put antifreeze in the drains and toilet.

I've had no problems.
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Old 09-28-2021, 07:56 AM   #18
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Can anyone recommend a small compressor like the one the guy in video was using? Maybe even American-made?
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Old 09-28-2021, 10:04 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Mr Lynn View Post
IBTW, your photo is of the fresh-water inlet, not the city one.
It is the city water inlet. Inlet for fresh water tank is to the right. I've been attaching city water hose to that inlet for 12 years...
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Old 09-28-2021, 10:47 AM   #20
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It is the city water inlet. Inlet for fresh water tank is to the right. I've been attaching city water hose to that inlet for 12 years...
Oh, sorry; thought it was a Casita (per OP); your Escape?
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