Winterizing my 2007 13' Deluxe?

[RSchleder]

OK, I'm almost embarrassed to ask this question, however, here goes. I have owned 12 different RV's of every shape and size, including a couple of 40' diesel motorhomes, and have always winterized my own units so I'm not exactly a newbie. Actually been camping for 30+ years so it's never too late to learn.
My issue with my 2007 Scamp deluxe that I bought new. I have never been able to use the single shutoff valve plumbed into the hot water line lying on the floor that passes in front of the the water heater to "stop the water heater from filling" before I get antifreeze to the kitchen, bathroom facets.
I have turned that dang valve in the 2 directions the handle can be turned so many times I'm blue in the face. On one setting no antifreeze moves in the hot water "pipes" and the pump shuts off as system becomes quickly pressurized. Turn the valve a second direction and the hot water heater fills.
So the bottom line is it takes 5-7 gal of $3.50-$4.00 to fill the water heater and run antifreeze through all the hot water lines, and that's just not right!
Every other RV I've owned has had 2 valves that are easy to use and shut off the entry and exit lines to the water heater.
I'm beginning to think ( I know, geez, after 15 years) that the single valve is not a winterizing valve. If not I have no idea why it's there or what it's for. Hopefully someone can enlighten this old camper as to what I'm missing here.
As usual, I appreciate your thoughts and thank you in advance for any help!

[Perryb67]

Sounds like Scamp may have forgotten to install that second needed diversion valve.

Enjoy,

Prry

[Casita Greg]

Personally, I have never bothered with using water line anti-freeze. I've always just blown the lines dry with my shop air compressor and a fitting I made that fits right on the incoming garden hose threaded fitting on the side of the trailer. My 240 Volt 30 Gallon 5 HP shop compressor puts out well over a hundred pounds of pressure, and I don't regulate it or "throttle it down." When I get ready to winterize, I go in the trailer and a open all the water valves. Then I attach my compressor air hose to the trailer and let it cough and spit until all the water has been blown out. As long as you have at least 1 valve open, you won't build up enough pressure to damage the piping inside. Even with full pressure, the valve I thread into the water fitting is less than 1/4" in cross sectional open area. With your sinks open, there's no way that you will overpower the water lines ability to evacuate water from the lines. Also, don't forget to step on the toilet pedal too to make sure you get the water out of the flushing valve, and open the water pump filter to let that line empty too.

I also did away with all my "P" traps in my drain lines and installed HepVo bladder valves to replace them. No longer have any standing water in my drain lines either. Just one less maintenance item to have to mess with. And no pink anti-freeze to deal with as well. Don't forget to pull the plug or anode out of your water heater and let it drain and dry out.

I've done it this way for over 13 years now, and it has always worked just fine

[sweendog]

I had the same issue with my 2002 Deluxe 13. Not being much of a plumber I took it to my local RV repair shop and they installed a second valve on the cold/in line. I turn both valves off before pumping the pink stuff and... problem solved.

[thekas]

Blowing air is definitely the best way to winterize & or evacuate water from pipes. The method you use for the air fitting is brilliant, I have permanently installed a schrader valve in an accessible spot. Much easier than any other method.

[RSchleder]

Thanks everyone! Appreciate all the ideas and suggestions. I'm going to go with the compressor blowing out the lines or install 2 new valves correctly positioned in my hot water lines.I also have a large tank compressor so will just need to roundup a fitting!

[thrifty bill]

I do the air blow out method too. Be sure to reduce the pressure down, I don’t exceed 30 psi. The plumbing in these campers can’t take full pressure.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by thekas

Blowing air is definitely the best way to winterize & or evacuate water from pipes. ..

Maybe it is FOR PIPES.. but when you add in pumps, valves, faucets, etc.. then it is very debatable. Using antifreeze is simple. But when using air pressure there is more to consider... see https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...e-97283-2.html

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Sounds like Scamp may have forgotten to install that second needed diversion valve.

They have been "forgetting" for years. Mine had a cold water shutoff valve to the water heater but that was all. No bypass. That does complicate winterization.