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03-19-2017, 02:53 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Ronald
Trailer: Trillium 1979 13ft.
Ontario
Posts: 300
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Wiring Connections
We have an original ( I think) wiring plug on our Boler( no brakes) which is a female end, 7-pin spade connector, the center post not being used. There are black and red wires that aren't in our flat 4 pin tow vehicle. Since our dome lights are inoperable with 110 plugged in, I figure the red is perhaps a power source for them only when attached to tow vehicle. What would the black wire be, power as well, as perhaps for the 3-way fridge? I want to trash the big 7 pin connector and solder up a 4 pin flat style connector. My flat has the traditional green/yellow/brown/white wires. Should I solder the red and or black to the brown power wire! I don't want to pop anything with a short. I want to tread carefully on this one...
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03-19-2017, 03:02 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Ronald
Trailer: Trillium 1979 13ft.
Ontario
Posts: 300
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Plug Photo
Here is a pic of the wires.
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03-19-2017, 03:13 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Red = Left turn / brakes
Green = Running lights
Black = 12 VDC + Pos
( Battery charge line)
Brown = Right turn / brakes
Yellow = Backup / auxiliary
White = 12 VDC - Neg - Grd
Blue = Trailer Brakes
Using only a 4 wire plug would not provide for trailer brakes or charging the trailer battery when hooked up to your tow vehicle
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03-19-2017, 03:30 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,531
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this might help some....
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03-19-2017, 03:48 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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I would rewire the tow vehicle for 7-pin rather than the trailer for 4-pin.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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03-19-2017, 04:11 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,049
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Boler 13 wire colors
My former 1974 Boler 13 had original wiring with colors listed by Steve Dunham. (I converted the camper from 4-pin to 7-blade and added brakes.)
To answer the OP's question, the Boler 13 dome lights get 12vdc power from the battery or ac/dc converter. And the wire colors between the dome lights and the battery or ac/dc converter are black (+) and white (-).
You might notice that the wire colors used in your tow vehicle are DIFFERENT than the wire colors used in your 40 year old Boler 13. In the Boler 13:
Red = Left turn / brakes
Green = Running lights (and tail lights)
Brown = Right turn / brakes
White = 12 VDC - Neg - Grd
HOWEVER for your flat four connector the wire colors are mapped as:
1. white = ground
2. brown = running lights and tail lights
3. yellow = left turn / brakes
4. green = right turn / brakes
Presumably your vehicle wires match the latter wire color scheme, but you will have to verify.
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03-19-2017, 04:33 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,479
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It appears that the OP's trailer does not have a battery or power converter ??
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03-19-2017, 04:34 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,049
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As you say, definitely tread carefully. On my 1974 Boler 13, there was a flat 4 connector and tracing these 4 wires back to tail lights and side marker lights, I determined:
Red = Left turn / brakes
Green = Running lights (and tail lights)
Brown = Right turn / brakes
White = 12 VDC - Neg - Grd
There was also a yellow wire dangling near the two tail lights (not connected), and I determined this was an unused wire intended for backup lights.
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03-19-2017, 04:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,049
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no battery or converter
Coincidentally, my Boler 13 had no battery or converter, just 2 dome lights with with disconnected black/white wires. I added a converter and wired in dome lights.
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03-19-2017, 04:46 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Ronald
Trailer: Trillium 1979 13ft.
Ontario
Posts: 300
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Connections
It is true, I have no battery or converter on board to run dome lights, fridge or any other 12 volt requirement. I believe that the way this Boler came, it would have to be hooked up to tow vehicle to be powered up for 12V. When detached from tow, I have to have 110V for any lighting (fluorescent). Boon docking, I would use flashlights. Would perhaps like using the fridge for a long road trip and use tow power to run the three way fridge or use the propane.
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03-19-2017, 05:43 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham
Red = Left turn / brakes
Green = Running lights
Black = 12 VDC + Pos
( Battery charge line)
Brown = Right turn / brakes
Yellow = Backup / auxiliary
White = 12 VDC - Neg - Grd
Blue = Trailer Brakes
Using only a 4 wire plug would not provide for trailer brakes or charging the trailer battery when hooked up to your tow vehicle
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My guess is that in most places you would tow that trailer brakes would be required. In some States if there's brakes on the trailer they have to be functional.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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03-19-2017, 06:04 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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Speaking for myself only , I would not tow a 2000 or 3000 lb travel trailer without functioning brakes especially at highway speeds or in the mountains.
My utility trailer which I use only for hauling firewood does not have brakes but is only used on back country roads at 25 mph or less. I had to make one panic stop with a full load of oak to avoid hitting a deer . Once was enough to convince me of the necessity of good trailer brakes !.
As Donna D has pointed out several times , trailer brakes are much cheaper to replace than vehicle brakes.
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03-19-2017, 10:33 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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This is the one I installed on my truck. I was able to plug my existing 4-pin into this Hopkins connector and not have to rewire. Works great!
Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
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03-19-2017, 11:27 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T.
This is the one I installed on my truck. I was able to plug my existing 4-pin into this Hopkins connector and not have to rewire. Works great!
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I must be in hog heaven, I've got the flat 4, round 6 and big 7 all on the same tug  .
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03-20-2017, 03:28 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 2,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
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Also available is a converter plug from a 7 wire down to a 4 wire plug in that I use when hauling my small utility trailer.
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03-20-2017, 07:30 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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I've never even used my "4" in the 7 yrs of hook up. You must pull alot of hogs!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave
I must be in hog heaven, I've got the flat 4, round 6 and big 7 all on the same tug  .
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03-20-2017, 08:56 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T.
I've never even used my "4" in the 7 yrs of hook up. You must pull alot of hogs! 
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One nice use for having both 7&4 is using the 4 plug side an extra set of lights in addition to tow dolly lights or iffy taillights on a project trailer.
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03-20-2017, 09:01 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Ahhh... you brought back to memory one thing I DID use my 4 for...and that was hooking up my backup camera when I had it temporarily on the tailgate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
One nice use for having both 7&4 is using the 4 plug side an extra set of lights in addition to tow dolly lights or iffy taillights on a project trailer.
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