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Old 04-27-2017, 10:04 AM   #21
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Name: William
Trailer: Scamp
Lakeville, CT
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Good to know. I'll look into the regulator on the stove top. My fridge does have a test port as well but I'll have to find a fitting for that.
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:15 AM   #22
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Name: Joe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biw314 View Post
Good to know. I'll look into the regulator on the stove top. My fridge does have a test port as well but I'll have to find a fitting for that.
Mine is a 1/8" pipe thread. Your local hardware should have pipe to hose fittings.
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Old 04-27-2017, 01:17 PM   #23
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Name: RB
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Having just done this on my RM2201, I can tell you it's a 1/8" pipe thread fitting on a tee with a plug in it after the safety cutoff valve. (#10 on the parts list diagram).

Adjusting my new regulator to the recommended 11" of water column resulted in not much change of anything in my case. The old regulator must have been pretty OK.

I did note reduced gas leakage. I think the fridge pipe plug sealer wasn't replaced after the last gas pressure check.
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Old 04-27-2017, 02:30 PM   #24
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Name: William
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Lakeville, CT
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Hardware store did not have the fitting but, as it turns out, I did. First, when I checked on the fridge today it was running 43 F below ambient. Big improvement on the 30 F and the only change was the leak fix. Good deal.

Then I shut things down and hooked up the manometer and found a pressure difference of 8 inches water column. Interesting. I adjusted the regulator up to about 10.5" and didn't want to go any further because it was getting close to the stop on the adjustment. Just made me feel uncomfortable. Will order a new regulator and I'm guessing/hoping that I will see further improvement when I check tomorrow.

Another interesting thing was that the pressure on the manometer had a pulse to it... meaning that it varied about about 0.5 " WC every 1.5 seconds or so. It did that even when nothing else was running. Does not seem to be normal and, like I said, will order a new regulator at the tank anyway.

Thanks to all for the continued help.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:39 PM   #25
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Name: William
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Checked the fridge this afternoon and it was 49 F below ambient. Seems that upping the regulator pressure to 10.5" WC had a dramatic effect. Noticeably hotter touching the insulation at the bottom of the flu. When I flicked on the fan I do not see any drop after about an hour--this was mid afternoon so it could have been getting hotter outside. New regulator comes Monday and should be able to get the full 11" then.

In the meantime, time to start thinking about the baffling in the back. Seems to me that on the Scamp it's really just one big vent. I wonder if actually blocking the middle, forcing the air to go in the bottom, through the coils, and out the top would help, or if just a single horizontal piece in the middle would suffice. My guess is that the effect will be subtle enough that I won't be able to tell among the other effects, notably ambient temperature fluctuations outside. Worth a try though.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:54 PM   #26
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William, that's great news. Thank you for sharing the process.
Dave & Paula
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:18 AM   #27
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Name: William
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When reinstalling the fridge last week I pushed a little too hard in the wrong spot and broke part of the mechanism that locks the fridge door. It was not very effective when it wasn't broken (partly because you had to remember to latch it) but now it would never stay shut while towing. I designed and printed up a replacement today. This was take two. Take one broke immediately. If it does the job I'm happy to share the design. I've also ordered a childproof fridge latch on Amazon that people seem to say good things about.
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Old 05-04-2017, 12:18 AM   #28
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Name: William
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Replaced the regulator and found that there is now room to adjust the pressure above and below the 11" WC. Now I seem to be running -45 to -49 F below ambient without a fan or baffling which I plan to tackle next. Feeling much, much better about the fridge situation. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

The big question now is whether to block off some of the vent so there is a distinct upper and lower vent or maybe just put in a simple horizontal baffle to force air into the coils. I'd try both but suspect that the difference will not be significant enough to really know which is better given the other factors that might change, most notably the temperature inside and outside the camper.
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Old 05-04-2017, 06:08 AM   #29
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Name: Joe
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William

There are many installation documents for Dometic refrigeration systems but ONE has maximum dimensions between piping and baffles. Took a while to find it but here it is.
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/dometicventing.pdf

Note the dimensions and notes for "F & G".

Joe
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Old 05-05-2017, 12:17 PM   #30
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Name: William
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Thanks, Joe. The issue I am thinking about is that there is not a distinct upper and lower vent in my installation. The experiment I'd like to try is using a simple baffle to break them up or actually the block the middle section off to create two distinct vents. I don't think I can know the answer without trying and still may never know.
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Old 05-10-2017, 06:25 PM   #31
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Name: William
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Installed a baffle today that sort of made a false wall close to the fridge forcing the air up through the coils. I'll attach a possibly indecipherable side view diagram. The flow out the top vent seems strong and once the fridge gets circulating again will hopefully carry some heat away with it. I also put in an interior switch for the exterior fridge fan so we can turn it on and off from inside.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:36 PM   #32
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The baffling seems to have done some good. The fridge this afternoon was running at 52 F below ambient, without any fans running. It's in there kinda temporary but I am feeling good enough that I think I will try to make it at least semi permanent with some duct tape.
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Old 06-21-2018, 08:46 PM   #33
sbq
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Name: SBQ
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Same Dometic RM2201 Trying to Fix

Greetings, I guess i'm the 3rd person here that is trying to fix their RM2201. In the past have put in a lot of effort with little or no improvement. For starters, let me explain why i'm trying to fix this fridge.



For those that may not be aware, Dometic has a chart that lists "The Replacement" for RM2200, 2201, 2202 is their RM2193:

http://w2.distone.com/bradstrailer/d...eplacement.pdf

Little that people may know, this is NOT really a replacement due to the fact that the RM2193 does NOT HAVE A FREEZER BOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dometic N. America chose this model based only on physical dimension that is closest to the RM2201.

But there's more to this problem. If you look overseas, Dometic UK/Europe/Aus/NZ has the RM5310 which looks pretty close to a RM2201 replacement. Being a new model, it has controls on the front like all the new fridge/freezers do. On physical dimensions: LWH

RM2201: 22 1/4" x 19 1/2" x 18 1/4"
RM5310: 24.33" x 19.14" x 18.66"

Why Dometic did NOT release the RM5310 in N. America? I'm uncertain, and my only reason I could think of is that in typical N. American fashion a small fridge / freezer box would attract little sales and everything in N. America is larger in size (ie houses and vehicles are bigger in N. America than in Europe, etc.)

The only drawback with the RM5310 is it's 240VAC and does not run on 12V. It requires a 12VDC connection to run the LPG/Propane igniter. One may be clever enough to modify the 240VDC heating element with a 120VAC equivalent.

Anyways back to fixing my RM2201. In the early years the fridge worked perfectly. Almost too good as in early spring in Canada, the fridge fins inside would have frost. So I do know how well th RM2201 can perform. Then 1 year bringing it out of winter storage, the fridge just seem to quit while the freezer box fins would work excellent. For years we used the fridge with the freezer door open but when the summer came where outside approaching 30C (90F). Not a chance the freezer could freeze as all the frost would melt leaving a small puddle of water inside the fridge. Anyways, it was clear something wasn't optimal.

In past i've had no luck adding fans on the top fins of the evaporator. It actually made it worse because in the rear compartment, the fan would just circulate the heat from the lower level rather than expelling the heat direct to the outside.

As we speak, I have the RM2201 sitting upside down hoping the burping technique would free up some dislodged sediment. I still strongly suspect the cooling unit is the issue despite the freezer box working during moderate outdoor temperatures. There must be a blockage or restriction in the cooling unit that goes to the fridge portion fins. I've read in other forums that the freezing fins are primary for cooling, then secondary cooling is the fridge, so the pipes in between might be blocked and hence why I have the RM2201 upside down. I may have to repeat this a few times.

Other report that running on propane the fridge works better than plug in electric. I will have to do closer testing as the points where the propane flame heats is at the bottom while the 120V electric heating elements are higher up. This may have a different effect and suspect a low flame may not help at all. The service manual shows there is a tube diffuser to spread the propane flame heat higher up, but i'm not sure if this is quite effective. As i've read, keeping the fridge level is important for propane function as the tilt of the burner flame will not heat higher up via this diffuser. Still i'm skeptical. I will need to see how hot 120v electric heats along the tube vs propane, if having the heat higher up in the tube makes the fridge work better.

If I put the RM2201 fridge back in and the results are minimal improvement... I will look to import the RM5310 from NZ (where I travel yearly). Stay tuned
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