You Can Repair Fiberglass - Page 16 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-01-2017, 12:03 AM   #301
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Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
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Originally Posted by Lisa in FL View Post
Hi Jonathan,
I know you have probably fixed your groomers bus, but I thought you might like an uneducated suggestion. I have never done FBG, but after reading D Whites thread I am ready to try. Have you considered using the opposite, and hopefully undamaged, corner of your bus to make a mold for the corner you need to repair? If you can, I would cover the undamaged section with something the mat and resin would not stick to, waxed paper maybe? Lay on your mat, soak and stipple it with resin. After it hardens, you should be able to flip it over (180 degrees) to match the damaged corner. Then trim your "mold", cut out the damaged glass section, prepare the mold to place three layers of mat and resin inside to form your new corner. After all that you will have a new corner piece, so you can taper the edges of the damaged area and your new corner, then just glass it in place.

I would love to see how your repair turned out, and to quote D White, Work Safe.
Your train of thought using existing shapes and wax paper as a mold is exactly how I made a new skin for the inside of my Boler door. The shape was perfect using the curve of the outside of the door to make the skin for the inside....
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:48 PM   #302
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Trailer: 93 "Lil" Bigfoot 13.5'
Utah
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Jonathan, Lisa.

Some experience I have, may make my opinions less than random. I repaired a 74 Boler . It had been rear ended. into the seats for a few inches. It has an interior back wall 6" separation at the bottom, from out side of "egg" tapering to nothing where it meets the rear window at the top. A distance of about 2 ' interior floor to the window bottom. 1' long crack, & big spiderweb 1' circle, the upper corners of the rear window All interior fur covered surfaces sprayed with the red contact cement, & attached "rat fur". Repaired interior short wall and back edges of benches from outside the window, just reached in thru the hole. The damaged area; window bottom edge, down to the bumper & 4"s into the seating on each side. Re did the gel coat on the interior rebuild. Fixed two gallon size holes on the front corners.
Now looking at the damage to your bus. Copying the opposite top corner and flipping it over will not work because they are asymmetrical. They can't be flipped, left to right. If the corner on opposite side, diagonal is the same it would be a good copy. The flapping pieces have been over stressed at the bend and will always be a weak point, if there were body twist. I would remove pieces like this at the bends. When replacing a piece where there is a hole, ( not just a sanded skin ), it should be set recessed into the opening so that it is in the same plane. It should be of the same thickness not just one cloth thick, mat alone would be difficult to smooth, and finish. copy with layers to match the current thickness. The openings can be cut square edged but tapered for an inch or so at about 1degree.
There is so much sanded from the present surface that this might be a moot topic.
When setting pieces just make sure they don't create a lump that will look very bad when it catches angled light. This edge must be backed; 1/4 inch ply would work but it must be bound to the interior face.
Must remove contact cement. Your grinder would have been good for this, orbital sanding is very slow. use of thinners is so so.
The fabricated piece must be set on top of where it will go and existing face (skin) must then be removed, where it is in conflict.
put a glass mat backing behind the mating surface (existing) held in place by 1/8" or 1/4" ply; also 4"s wide The mat can be 4"s ,( try to use square lines 90 degree corners, 45 degrees, or std. protractor curve #s or correct circle pieces; wild shaped edges will be impossible to fit without major cloth edge feathering.) 2"S under the edge of the existing surface and protruding out from the edge 2"s, to be under the piece being set on top. make by cutting pieces, 4"s wide by x"s long, coat and place piece on non stick plastic. The wood support, used to pull the glass tight to the back side is pulled close by screws thru the face, ( screws ) removed when resin is set. Ply piece on skin will keep the screws from pulling thru, clean squash out at the edge, so the inserted piece will fit well. With the backers in place the pattern can be set straight in place. Pattern must be put on top of where it will go, cut it to the shape required and then transfer the shape to the bus so it can have excess skin removed, ( this should be done before the fiberglass backer is put under the skin.)
I removed fur back to side windows sanded the interior 2' in dynamiter at the top of window both sides added mat. Sanded outside skin, put cloth in place with about a 1+ feathered edge so it would blend into the skin. (Which had been sanded down about one thickness of cloth.)
If large piece is not available copy a couple of feet of the side of bus curve at top, & a partial corner. Use center section of top crushed area on the right clean on the left copy it by covering with plastic on top of the crushed area & the good side, 2' +- the size of the shape is what is important. not the look of the underside surface on top of broken ski. just need the curve.
I think the your top is overly sanded. It will be very distorted, if a corner as Lisa suggests is not available. If it is available, do not set it on top of what is there, try to get firm strait lines. A corner may need to be made by copying something with a close radius.
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Old 07-04-2017, 06:38 PM   #303
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Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
Anyone know major retailers where I can get fiberglass mat.
I found mat at Home Depot this morning. Lowes only had cloth.
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:08 PM   #304
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Well I'll be reading up on this stuff very soon. Just cracked in the top corner of my Bigfoot on a tree branch, trying to get under the shade. Nothing terrible, but it hit right on the marker light in the upper corner, crushed it and cracked the fiberglass in a little. Oh well.

"Luckily" it apparently never rains here anymore, so there's no huge rush to get it fixed and prevent water damage...though I'll get on it pretty soon anyway.
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Old 10-03-2018, 12:01 PM   #305
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Name: Jan
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This is a great thread. I am new and have an old Burro with some issues. I think I can do this. Easy-right? Thanks for the info and pictures.
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Old 10-03-2018, 12:29 PM   #306
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Has anyone used the Spectrum Color fiberglass patch kits on a Casita? They work great on my Boston Whaler boat. I am interested in a color for the newer Casitas.
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Old 07-07-2019, 02:08 PM   #307
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Name: Julie
Trailer: trail mite
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How to epoxy wood to fiberglass shell

Hello, I went back to the first thread to ask this question and not sure if it is still active. I built a new lightweight wood table and bought Dyer table hardware strips that attach to the table end and to the trailer. We did not have success with the epoxy attaching wood piece to the trailer. When I took off the duct tape the wood strip came off too. But reading through several of your posts it's probably due to not enough prep work. I really don't want to drill holes to support this end of the table as it would add a lot of stress to trailer body. Do you think the epoxy is the answer if properly prepped?
Thanks so much!
Julie in WA
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Old 01-01-2020, 07:31 PM   #308
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Great post.
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Old 04-04-2020, 03:31 PM   #309
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Name: Martin
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Originally Posted by D White View Post
HiÖMy name is Dave and I love FIBERGLASS. I have been working on show quality Corvettes for 35 years and Iím wondering if there is any useful information I have learned in that time that I could pass on to this great forum. We are currently reconfiguring a Uhaul for a client which promises to be quite a build in the steam punk genre. This Uhaul is in remarkably good condition, but requires lots of patching and fiberglass work. It will be a perfect subject for this forum.
First of all, I believe anyone can make a satisfactory fiberglass repair. It doesnít require much for tools, or specialized anything. I will document some work in this thread done with basic understanding. Yes there are other ways, methods, tools etc. I encourage others with differing methods to start a thread with those ideas. The more information, the better. I donít know everything, and use this information at your own risk.
I start off with safety. You MUST ALWAYS use the following safety items as a minimum.
Dust masks
Eye protection
Nitrile gloves or better
Long sleeve shirts or tyvek coveralls
I know there will be lots of reaction to the following statement, but donít waste your money on epoxy. I love epoxy and use lots of it, but you donít need anything but regular old polyester fiberglass resin. I have 35 year old repairs still looking good with it. We use vinlyester resin, for many reasons, but you donít have to and it may be hard for you to get. ďtoolingĒ resin would be a step up also. The problem with epoxy is that is does stick better, but nothing sticks to it except epoxy unless strict procedures are followed. You donít have the time or the money for it, and you donít need it if you follow the following two rules EVERY time
1. YOU ARE WEARING SAFETY EQUIPMENT ARENíT YOU? You must have a clean surface. Before starting a repair, clean all foreign material off with a razor blade then wipe with acetone. You may now start sanding the repair area with at least 80 grit, (40 is even easier). Use a sander, or do it by hand, but sand the heck out of it. It MUST be rough. After sanding, again wipe all dust and debris off with acetone. IF ITíS CLEAN AND ROUGH, IT WILL STICK.
2. SAFELY cut your mat (donít use weave (cloth), your trailer was made with mat. When you are ready, mix your resin according to the directions on the can in a body shop style plastic cup or an grocery store style paper bowl, NOTHING ELSE. No cottage cheese container, yogurt container, pop container, or any other thing. Plasticers from other receptacles can melt into the resin and cause you problems, and you wonít know why. Yes I know other people have done it, but donít you. Paper cereal bowls are cheap and become better after the resin has cured in them. You are now ready to patch, depending on what repair you have. I will start off with small and if it is useful to the forum, weíll move to more complicated. If you have fresh resin and catalyst, mix it correctly and follow the above, it will workÖYOU CAN DO IT!
If I can figure out how to post pictures, we will have specific information in the next few days

I was just wondering if all these years later you are still following this thread Dave? It was very inspirational gives me the confidence to do my own fiberglass repairs. I have just bought a 1984 Bigfoot B17. It has many little and some larger problems with the fiberglass body. I am actually weighing the odds and wondering about striping it right down to the fiberglass shell and doing a full restoration on it. I am hesitant as it may just turn into a massive can of worms. But the fiberglassing was always an especially intimidating factor. The big one being the roof is all saged and has had previously been patched in various areas by what looks like a block of wood covered in sealant. There are also cracks in the gel coat and the fiberglass looks like it is wrinkling at the door header and around a window or two. Anyways this was such an awesome thread but also an old one so I was just putting out a feeler to see if it is still being followed by you?
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Old 04-04-2020, 07:59 PM   #310
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I was just wondering if all these years later you are still following this thread Dave?
Unfortunately, Dave hasn't logged into FiberglassRV for a year:
Last Activity: 04-08-2019 06:52 PM
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Old 04-05-2020, 12:24 AM   #311
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Name: Eric
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You might want to go for it anyway, and if you run into issues, post the questions, there are lots of people here who have worked on the shells. The good thing it, with FG if you don't like the results, sand and try again!
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Old 04-05-2020, 10:38 AM   #312
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Unfortunately, Dave hasn't logged into FiberglassRV for a year:
Last Activity: 04-08-2019 06:52 PM
Thank you Donna I suspected as much...
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Old 04-05-2020, 10:38 AM   #313
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You might want to go for it anyway, and if you run into issues, post the questions, there are lots of people here who have worked on the shells. The good thing it, with FG if you don't like the results, sand and try again!
Thank you for the encouragement! I am probably just going to go for it.
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Old 04-05-2020, 04:05 PM   #314
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Dave answered many questions in this thread and I really believe any problem you have in the course of your reno will be answered reading tnrough this thread
Fred
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Old 04-26-2020, 06:39 PM   #315
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Wonderful information..
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