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Old 05-31-2021, 01:29 PM   #321
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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Originally Posted by MattRMX View Post
Picked up a 77 boler for 1500, which seemed like a steal. Upon further inspection, fount this mess in the back corner!! Looks like they backed the trailer into something and it buckled and cracked the floor and wheel well. Wondering if we remove all this junkie wood and body fill, can we just repair the fibreglass properly. No frame damage but you can see in the pics that because they body filled ove the fibreglass it never even cured properly. Any advise here would be much appreciated. Thanks!!
Oh my!! That is a mess. My suggestion would be to get all the filler off, a big job. Then get the fibreglass back to the correct shape using support rods, (like these: https://www.princessauto.com/en/63-t...t/PA0008888745). Then, when you are happy with the shape, you can stabilize the glass using short 2x4's, on the inside like staples. With the narrow side of the 2x4 against the fibreglass. You may need to shape the side against the glass to match the original shape of the fibreglass. Drill a hole, or two through the fibreglass, on each side of the crack, and screw into the wood, through the drilled holes to stabilize the shape. Do this every so often along the crack(s). Then grind the glass 1” to 2” on either side of the crack, from both the outside and the inside of the trailer, so that it tapers from the full thickness down to paper thin but still touching. Then fill in the ground out parts with new glass mat and resin. Go a little thicker than the original. Sand/grind the outside surface smooth. Then using Bondo, get it smooth enough to paint. This will become an iterative process. Sand off too much, put more down. Put down too much, sand it off, till you are happy with it.

It should be mentioned that this process is recommended, even where the crack didn’t separate. That is, where the fibreglass folded, but is still attached.
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Old 05-31-2021, 02:01 PM   #322
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Name: Matt
Trailer: 13' 1977 boler
Ontario
Posts: 8
Thanks David! Great idea with the support bar. Alot of the body fill is coming off quite easily would you suggest just grinding off the remaining or a 40 grit sandpaper?
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Old 05-31-2021, 04:09 PM   #323
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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Originally Posted by MattRMX View Post
Thanks David! Great idea with the support bar. Alot of the body fill is coming off quite easily would you suggest just grinding off the remaining or a 40 grit sandpaper?
I am a fan of grinders. But be careful. They are fast, but on fibreglass, they can quickly cause a lot of damage.
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Old 06-01-2021, 12:22 PM   #324
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Name: kenny
Trailer: 93 "Lil" Bigfoot 13.5'
Utah
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I have grinders, disk sanders, circular vibration sanders, block sanding.
Use sanders in finishing, there are nice 40 grit down to 400 grit sanding disks, bendable, flexible.
you can use autobody repair planes. they are metal or plastic framed. A very toothy cutting surface. they are nice for cutting fiberglass mat ( and bondo ) that is not yet fully cured. Like grading cheese. they don't work on cured surfaces. You can flatten a surface, add more mat, cut the uncured surface, keep working building up layers not waiting for tomorrow; when the resin is hard enough to work with.

Later Kenny
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Old 06-02-2021, 07:46 PM   #325
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Name: Matt
Trailer: 13' 1977 boler
Ontario
Posts: 8
Can anyone tell me the specs for the type of fibreglass I should be using on the damaged floor in our 77 13' boler. Have a hole we have to fill in and once new marine ply floor is installed, we will want to do all the edge so its attached to the sidewalls. Thanks all!
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Old 06-08-2021, 12:38 AM   #326
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Name: Carl
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 62
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Oh my!! That is a mess. My suggestion would be to get all the filler off, a big job. Then get the fibreglass back to the correct shape using support rods, (like these: https://www.princessauto.com/en/63-t...t/PA0008888745). Then, when you are happy with the shape, you can stabilize the glass using short 2x4's, on the inside like staples. With the narrow side of the 2x4 against the fibreglass. You may need to shape the side against the glass to match the original shape of the fibreglass. Drill a hole, or two through the fibreglass, on each side of the crack, and screw into the wood, through the drilled holes to stabilize the shape. Do this every so often along the crack(s). Then grind the glass 1” to 2” on either side of the crack, from both the outside and the inside of the trailer, so that it tapers from the full thickness down to paper thin but still touching. Then fill in the ground out parts with new glass mat and resin. Go a little thicker than the original. Sand/grind the outside surface smooth. Then using Bondo, get it smooth enough to paint. This will become an iterative process. Sand off too much, put more down. Put down too much, sand it off, till you are happy with it.

It should be mentioned that this process is recommended, even where the crack didn’t separate. That is, where the fibreglass folded, but is still attached.
I like the support rods idea. I was wondering would it be a good idea to apply heat to the fiberglass when pushing it back into shape? My boler was hit by a Moose In the front corner pushing it in a little and creating a crack. I tried to push it out but it is very difficult to budge. I tried a space heater and that helped me to push part 0f it but I would need a lot more widespread heat and be able to push out a larger area right at the belly band area.
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Old 06-08-2021, 06:45 AM   #327
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Name: Fred
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Kootenay's of BC
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Originally Posted by MattRMX View Post
Can anyone tell me the specs for the type of fibreglass I should be using on the damaged floor in our 77 13' boler. Have a hole we have to fill in and once new marine ply floor is installed, we will want to do all the edge so its attached to the sidewalls. Thanks all!
Polyester resin and layers of mat and weave glass should get the job done.
Your boler was made with it over 40 years ago and is still in use today.
Fred
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Old 06-08-2021, 07:03 AM   #328
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Name: Fred
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Kootenay's of BC
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Originally Posted by jbenkovich View Post
Hello, I went back to the first thread to ask this question and not sure if it is still active. I built a new lightweight wood table and bought Dyer table hardware strips that attach to the table end and to the trailer. We did not have success with the epoxy attaching wood piece to the trailer. When I took off the duct tape the wood strip came off too. But reading through several of your posts it's probably due to not enough prep work. I really don't want to drill holes to support this end of the table as it would add a lot of stress to trailer body. Do you think the epoxy is the answer if properly prepped?
Thanks so much!
Julie in WA
Ive never used epoxy on my boler, never will. The link in my signature post 149 is a bit of a tutorial on how I attached a wall mount TV bracket to our boler.
The same process could be used on your project.
Fred
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