13 foot Scamp Air Conditioner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-22-2020, 01:45 PM   #1
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Name: Jeanine
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13 foot Scamp Air Conditioner

Thinking about putting a window air conditioner in the space where the refrigerator would be located. There is a vent in the rear, where the refrigerator used to be. Anyone think of any reason why this wouldn't work? The 5,000 btu air conditioners are the perfect size to fit this space.
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:30 PM   #2
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Air conditioner

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Originally Posted by Jeanine in Boise View Post
Thinking about putting a window air conditioner in the space where the refrigerator would be located. There is a vent in the rear, where the refrigerator used to be. Anyone think of any reason why this wouldn't work? The 5,000 btu air conditioners are the perfect size to fit this space.
Be sure to mount it so that ALL of the water drains out side the RV.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:22 AM   #3
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Name: Darral
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You may want to look up mounting A/Cs like that on this group. There's several variations. One thing I'm thinking, you will need to mount a fan on the TOP louver to help pull out the heat from the small A/C. If not, it may recirculate on itself and overheat! I've heard of that happening.

I also 100% agree with AC0GV that the compartment MUST be waterproofed or it will be disastrous! I think most build a pan with a hose attached to it to run to the outside. That would be MY preference.
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeanine in Boise View Post
Anyone think of any reason why this wouldn't work? The 5,000 btu air conditioners are the perfect size to fit this space.



Just because a particular size A/C will fit in the space
doesn't mean it should. One of the biggest mistakes I
see people make is not taking into consideration that
the unit will require a certain amount of air space in
order to function properly. Not meeting minimum ventilation
requirements is just asking for failure.


My suggestion would be to query the manufacturer as
to the minimum amount of air space acceptable for proper
operation of the unit. A secondary method of air flow
control may also be needed, such as a fan, to sustain
proper fresh air movement through the unit.


Hope that helps ....


.
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Old 07-12-2020, 09:52 PM   #5
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Yes it can be done. There are several threads on A/C installs in 13' FGRV's here. Just be careful with installing a drain plug in a 500btu unit. Most modern AC's will use the water from condensation to cool the coils, draining away that water will cause the AC to run hot and die prematurely. Design a space that will catch excess condensation that naturally drips from the AC to lead it outside of the camper.
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Old 07-29-2020, 10:28 PM   #6
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Most modern AC's will use the water from condensation to cool the coils, draining away that water will cause the AC to run hot and die prematurely. Design a space that will catch excess condensation that naturally drips from the AC to lead it outside of the camper.
Markz - I recently did a closet install on my Scamp 13'. I installed the AC with a drain pan(in the event of a major overflow or drips from the bottom of the unit) but, did not drill a hole in the bottom of the AC unit. After a few hours of it running on a hot and humid day, I checked it and the condenser fan had sprayed excess water on the inside of my closet. Knowing that I didn't want to have water in a closed off space, I went ahead and drilled a hole in the bottom of the AC unit. Your post has me a bit concerned whether I made a mistake. None of the posts I had read on closet installs said anything about the fan spraying water on the inside of the closet. Any thoughts? Did you install an AC in your Boler?
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Old 07-30-2020, 07:36 AM   #7
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Most of the new high efficiency units collect the condensate and the fan "sprays" that over the coil to aid in cooling.
Whatever you do be sure to provide airflow for the hot side of the A/C.
Personally I think that leaks or rather potential leaks could rot out the floor.
In my case I fiberglassed the entire floor with fiberglass fabric and epoxy resin. That would probably be overkill, but it would be better than a catch pan it the pan were formed from fiberglass with a drain built in.
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:20 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by ZachK View Post
Markz - I recently did a closet install on my Scamp 13'. I installed the AC with a drain pan(in the event of a major overflow or drips from the bottom of the unit) but, did not drill a hole in the bottom of the AC unit. After a few hours of it running on a hot and humid day, I checked it and the condenser fan had sprayed excess water on the inside of my closet. Knowing that I didn't want to have water in a closed off space, I went ahead and drilled a hole in the bottom of the AC unit. Your post has me a bit concerned whether I made a mistake. None of the posts I had read on closet installs said anything about the fan spraying water on the inside of the closet. Any thoughts? Did you install an AC in your Boler?
Yes, there will be some condensation that comes off of the AC unit that you will need to account for. I created a catch pan in the bottom of my closet that drains into the wheel well.

I suggest plugging up the whole you drilled in your AC unit. Duct Tape could be a quick fix. Otherwise your AC will run hotter, be less effective and have a shortened life span.
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:41 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Most of the new high efficiency units collect the condensate and the fan "sprays" that over the coil to aid in cooling.
Whatever you do be sure to provide airflow for the hot side of the A/C.
Personally I think that leaks or rather potential leaks could rot out the floor.
In my case I fiberglassed the entire floor with fiberglass fabric and epoxy resin. That would probably be overkill, but it would be better than a catch pan it the pan were formed from fiberglass with a drain built in.
I purchased a couple of muffin fans to install at the intake vent which I'm hoping will provide enough cooling/airflow. I've also wrapped the back of the unit with reflectix to duct the hot air out the exit vent. Based on your comment and Markz, I may have to plug up the hole that I drilled and install some sort of catch for the excess water the condenser fan sprays.
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachK View Post
I purchased a couple of muffin fans to install at the intake vent which I'm hoping will provide enough cooling/airflow. I've also wrapped the back of the unit with reflectix to duct the hot air out the exit vent. Based on your comment and Markz, I may have to plug up the hole that I drilled and install some sort of catch for the excess water the condenser fan sprays.
I used a bathroom ceiling exhaust unit to blow the hot air out of the camper's roof. Not sure DC powered muffin fans are strong enough or will hold up to the heat/moisture.
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:14 AM   #11
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I used a bathroom ceiling exhaust unit to blow the hot air out of the camper's roof. Not sure DC powered muffin fans are strong enough or will hold up to the heat/moisture.
I would've liked to vent out the hot air away from the intake. Unfortunately the previous owner had already cut the usual hole for the AC(picture below). The muffin fans will be installed for the intake air only. I installed the reflectix(pictured below) in hopes that the area around the AC as well as the closet doesn't heat up very much.
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:52 PM   #12
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I would've liked to vent out the hot air away from the intake. Unfortunately the previous owner had already cut the usual hole for the AC(picture below). The muffin fans will be installed for the intake air only. I installed the reflectix(pictured below) in hopes that the area around the AC as well as the closet doesn't heat up very much.
I see, since the AC unit is blowing directly out the side of the camper, disregard my suggestion of using the bathroom exhaust fan. You would only need such a pusher fan set up as mine if you are attempting to duct the hot exhaust air elsewhere.

I believe your muffin fans would help. I suggest using muffin fans designed for wet environments and IP55 rated. Since it can get damp in the closet, you might also want to remove the wall carpeting from around the AC unit.
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Old 07-31-2020, 06:18 AM   #13
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These are durable fans. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-31-2020, 08:15 AM   #14
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These are durable fans. Attachment 136437
Markz - I'll take a look. Any idea on recommended number of CFMs? I'm thinking of just fitting as many fans width wise across my top intake vent... I need to measure but, guessing it'll hold three

Jeanine in Boise - Sorry for high-jacking your thread. I hope at least some of the items discussed help you with your install. One thing I was thinking about with the refrigerator install vs. the closet install. It may be hard to access the rear of the unit to properly vent(with reflectix or some kind of ducting). I sealed mine around the back of the AC prior to putting it in the closet and then again at the exit vent with HVAC tape. With the closet, you have complete access to the top of the unit which helped me tremendously when trying to get to the back vent. I guess a possible work around on this is removing the outside fridge vent for access. Just an idea.... Good luck with your install.
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Old 08-02-2020, 11:13 AM   #15
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Why not install the window unit as it was intended, in a window? Iíve had no problems with this set up in my Scamp 13Click image for larger version

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Old 08-02-2020, 11:29 AM   #16
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13 foot Scamp Air Conditioner

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Why not install the window unit as it was intended, in a window?
The OP has a 1977, which has no suitable window. Front and back are fixed plexiglass and side windows are jalousies.
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