13' Scamp Work in Progress (Lots of Additions)

[David Morgan]

Thank you again for all the knowledge!

I was able to pull out all of the seals, clean them up and reuse them. I used laytex glazing caulk with aluminum in it. It is the same color as the original seals. I shot a bead of that into all of the tracks as I re asembled the window panes. I then knocked the rubber seals back in and used the caulking to fill in the gaps. It worked really well. For the seal on the tilt out I used colsed cell weather strip. It made a good positive seal, the hinge has relaxed with age and the extra fluff in the foam makes it close tight.

It took me a while to figure out how to re-install it without having help to push it down while riviting. I used 3" machine screws and ran about 6 through from behind. I then cranked down the nuts from the outside in a nice even torqe patterrn. That sucked the window in to the contur of the shell, and I was able to rivit it back in. I don't know if anyone else has used that method but it worked slick. All in all my first window repair was a sucsess!

I do have one more question? Should I seal the ends of the pop rivits with something?

The dark stuff on the frame is sillicone residue. When I have some more time I will try some remover and see if I can get the rest of it off. I plan on re-doing all of the windows this year. I will see if I can get all the rubber parts from one of those suppliers you listed. The rear windo is next and although it's not in nearly as bad of shape. It has also had a run-in with the silicone monster

Thank you again!

[Raya]

I do have one more question? Should I seal the ends of the pop rivits with something?

Hi David,

I've always thought those particular Scamp windows were cool. I don't think they used them for very long, so they're a bit rare. I imagine that they are somewhat more prone to leaks than the side windows, being as they are square and have large opening panes, but are on the rounded back end of the camper (in other words, hard to keep tension on the bottom of the pane). Still, if you can keep them sealed they are nifty :yis

Assuming you used "regular" pop rivets, then yes, you should put a dollop of sealer on the very center/outside of the rivet (needless to say, not silicone ). Otherwise you have a hole (in the form of a tube) going through. Typically, one can then fit a vinyl covering strip along the sides to cover up the fasteners. This is mostly for looks, but will also keep the sun/UV off your caulk dollops.

I'm not sure if the vinyl trim will work on your windows due to the radiused corners, but perhaps you can customize it somehow.

Good on you for tackling "the silicone monster." Now you know why I stagger in shock and horror when the word is mentioned

For future reference (or other windows), you can also substitute machine screws for the rivets. I suspect that the main reason rivets were used on our eggs was for time/skill reasons at the factory. After all, they had to be competitive and the campers were made to be affordable for common folks. Rivets are much faster and easier to install in a factory production setting than screws and nuts would be.

Note that you can buy new "operators" for your windows (the crank mechanism). I think that both of the places I mentioned above have them.

Raya

[David Morgan]

Wahoo! What a week!!! Just finished up with prep-week 2010. We made a few upgrades and modifications (as usual ) I have been talking about some of those in other threads over the winter, but I will list them all here. Got some pictures to add too! I want to thank FGRV and all of the helpful members that have contributed to the successes with the renovations of our happy little cabin on wheels.

Installed New Furnace

Rebuilt front window (Already mentioned)

Replaced dinette table with new Oak table

completely rebuilt front bunk, also in Oak. Glassed on new support on front wall.

Built upper side loft cabinets over the dinette.

Repaired a few leaks.

Bunch of other odds and ends I can't remember all of

[David Morgan]

More pictures

[David Morgan]

More pictures

[David Morgan]

More pictures

[David Morgan]

To Paint or Not to Paint? That is the question..... I am considering having our little egg repainted (Outside). I have a lot of holes and cracks to fix. I want to stay with a fairly close to factory color. My question is.... Do I have a car guy paint it? Or a boat guy gelcoat it? What are the benefits/disadvantages to the two different options? Bigger question... If I wanted to do it what kind of special equipment would I need to gelcoat?

TIA

[David Morgan]

Completed the center cabinet over the dinette over the weekend. I also got started on the bolt on railing for the bunk bed!

[Joe Steadman]

Completed the center cabinet over the dinette over the weekend. I also got started on the bolt on railing for the bunk bed!

I love the bunk!

[Paul Chet]

great job David ... someone's been busy!

what do the switches on the switch panel control - is that essentially your circuit breaker?
i like your idea of one central spot for all switches - like a boat panel.

well done!

[David Morgan]

great job David ... someone's been busy!

what do the switches on the switch panel control - is that essentially your circuit breaker?
i like your idea of one central spot for all switches - like a boat panel.

well done!

Thank you!

You know I like having all of my controls in one location. The panel under the sink as you see in the picture is not yet completed. I have since also added an analog battery meter gage. The black switch on the right when pushed activates the meter. The first switch on the far left, sends power to a heavy duty solenoid style relay (Also mounted below the panel). This in turn closes the circuit to my power inverter. The inverter is connected directly to the battery via 10AWG Wire through this relay. The inverter is permanently mounted directly behind the switch panel. On the left side of the sink cabinet is the power center. This particular unit has a smart charge controller, 3 120V 15A Breakers and 4 12V 25A Fused Circuits. There is an LED indicator light for each fuse that will come on if a fuse blows. The converter charger is also 25A contentious run. And optimise's between charging and loads if there is heavy draw. The second switch from the left is for the water pump. Third is for my DVD/TV unit. (This unit draws power even when turned off so I like to have it on a switch. The Forth white switch is for future expansion.

The four 12V circuits built into the charge controller are wired this way. #1 25A is the charging circuit to the battery. This is also the feed back circuit to power everything else from the battery (Power can go both ways on it). #2 #3 & #4 cannot draw power. These will be supplied current either from the battery through #1 or from the power converter, or if the load is significant the controller can use the battery to boost its own output, if the the combined concurrent demand on #2 #3 & #4 is greater than 25A. Of course this will deplete the battery if it is sustained. And total combined current draw cannot exceed a total of 50A This will cause #1 fuse to blow and the overload breaker built into the controller to trip. This is why I have my inverter fed from the battery. As a fail safe if something was to short, the main fuse would blow causing the relay to open. This would prevent the inverter from being damaged in the event of a short in one of the other circuits. The inverter also has an inline fuse in its wire from the battery (30A). Circuit # 2 powers lights and cabin accessories. # 3 Is connected directly to the 3way Fridge. #4 at this time powers only the water pump and the furnace.

Because this is a work in progress and we actively use our trailer almost weekly in the summer months. The tendency is for me to make changes to the system all the time. I am not sure if this the best way to run things, but so far this configuration works well for me. I have not had any electrical issues thus far. And the WFCO brand controller I bought on Ebay works very well. I am still going to add an Amp meter and maybe some solar equipment. Once I have it all locked down as to how I will leave it configured I will label all the switches.

There are a couple pictures of the power center in the slide show. Hope this answered your questions!

Thank you again!

[Joe Steadman]

I am new to FGRV but I have been working on my 13' for a little over a year now. I have dun alot of additions, and have plans for a complete restoration.

How did you glue the carpet to the front curved walls? I am trying to do the same but I can't get it to stay?

[Donna D.]

How did you glue the carpet to the front curved walls? I am trying to do the same but I can't get it to stay?

Joe, have you read Robert Johans excellent write up about his 1982 Perris Pacer Renovation, especially this post: Post about gluing the Reflectix to the shell.

[Joe Steadman]

Joe, have you read Robert Johans excellent write up about his 1982 Perris Pacer Renovation, especially this post: Post about gluing the Reflectix to the shell.

I am just nervous that that 3M spray won't hold?

[David Morgan]

I am just nervous that that 3M spray won't hold?

We used the 3M Spray Can contact cement. So far it is working great. You have to use it liberally. Nice thick coating on the wall, and on the back of the carpet. Let it setup till it is nice and tacky, then press it on hard. I found doing small portions at a time worked better as it was easier to keep the presser on it. I don't remember what the number on the can was but it was a green can.

Hope that helps.

[Robert Johans]

I am just nervous that that 3M spray won't hold?

Joe,

I used 3M 90 for my wall coverings. BUT, I did not use "carpet" on the walls. I found an interesting and durable wall covering called "cabinet lining." I'm guessing carpet could be kinda heavy... But if you coat both surfaces well and evenly, this stuff really sticks.

[Paul Chet]

David,
wow ... you have really taken the electrical layout to a whole new level! i think your Scamp is wired better than my condo!
i will be doing something similar very soon. for now everything works well, its just old and i would rather redo the electrical while all is well than have it ultimately fail on me during a trip.

i am also planning adding a shower to my bathroom mod. i looked at a few hot water heaters and would really like to know what you ended up using, and how you did it. once i get going on that project, i'll be in touch!

since you are in the Pac NW and we are thinking of a trip north to Vancouver Island .... i might have to stop by with my UHaul and ask for some advice!

[Bob Maddox]

David, I really like your overhead cabinets. Did you make the fiberglass ones on the side walls? Also, could you describe how you attached them (both wood and fiberglass ones) to the wall and ceiling? I would like to try something similar in my Burro. Thanks, Bob

[David Morgan]

David,
wow ... you have really taken the electrical layout to a whole new level! i think your Scamp is wired better than my condo!
i will be doing something similar very soon. for now everything works well, its just old and i would rather redo the electrical while all is well than have it ultimately fail on me during a trip.

i am also planning adding a shower to my bathroom mod. i looked at a few hot water heaters and would really like to know what you ended up using, and how you did it. once i get going on that project, i'll be in touch!

since you are in the Pac NW and we are thinking of a trip north to Vancouver Island .... i might have to stop by with my UHaul and ask for some advice!

Thank you!

I am interested in knowing more about your shower mod. Sounds like a fun project! You are welcome to ask questions anytime! The water heater installation was a big undertaking but it was worth it. I wold be happy to share photos and help you with it..

[David Morgan]

David, I really like your overhead cabinets. Did you make the fiberglass ones on the side walls? Also, could you describe how you attached them (both wood and fiberglass ones) to the wall and ceiling? I would like to try something similar in my Burro. Thanks, Bob

I would be happy to help you out with that. The white side cabinets are actually made from wood. I prepped and painted with appliance Epoxy paint. Looks just like fiberglass There is an entire thread on those cabinets. I had a lot of help from other patrons of FGRV. Here is a link to that thread!

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...hl=David+Morgan

There are some other good ideas on this subject in there as well.. But feel free to ask questions.

Dave~