As mentioned in previously placed posts, I have begun a total, ground-up restoration of a 1971 Boler. The only positive things I can say about this trailer is that MOST of the body/shell is intact, and the owners are terrific people with true vision and faith...
When the Boler arrived I noticed a serious lean to the streetside. Upon closer inspection, I discovered the subfloor on that side was nearly completely rotten. Originally, the subfloor is "glassed" to the shell—providing both rigidity and support. But now there is nothing holding that side of the shell up.
Here's what it looked like when it arrived at The Egg Plant. I've circled some areas that will require some special attention...
First order of business was to remove all of the interior furniture modules in order to get to the floor.
This required:
a) drilling out all of the original rivets; b) cutting through most of the rusted hold-down screws and bolts; and, c) cutting through areas where the modules where glassed to the rotten floor or the shell itself.
Removing the subfloor meant more cutting around the glassed-in perimeter, and breaking loose all of the old hold-down screws and bolts. After supporting the corners of the shell with blocks, I eventually I got all of the old, rotten plywood off the frame. With these old Boler's, it's the subfloor that mates the shell to the frame. With the floor now gone, I can pull the frame out from under the shell.
As Borden has already keenly observed, the frame is history. Evidently, there had been some damage in the past, and some previous owner had done a terrible job "sistering" in a repair. Plus lots of rust, and a sag to the back that has displaced over 3" from square! I may be able to salvage the axle, as it is a "relatively" new Dexter TorFlex. I will, however, update the hubs, seals and bearings to accommodate new 15" wheels and tires.
Now that the shell and frame are separated, I can begin to address the ensolite insulation/wall covering. Over the years, many patches to the seams and many coats of paint (trying to hide the flaws) had been applied. It was a mess and has to be replaced.
This, however, has become the most difficult task to date. Because of weakened rivets in the roof, water had infiltrated the shell over the years, creating pockets of water waiting to be released by a sharp knife! Joy. In other places, the original adhesive is still so strong I can only tear it loose by using a power tool.
When all of the ensolite is scraped clean from the fiberglass I will use a high-pressure water sprayer to remove any residue. Then I can prep the shell walls for any and all fiberglass repairs.
Speaking of fiberglass repairs, here are a few of the problem areas that will need serious attention.
Of course, a new subfloor needs to be installed and glassed in as well. Unlike newer models, these older Bolers did not feature a fiberglass layer between the frame and subfloor. Which, obviously, makes the plywood extremely vulnerable, as was the case here.
To protect the new floor I will do a couple things: 1) the exposed "outside" surface will get a generous coating of resin (as will the ply edges and any pre-drilled holes); and 2) everything gets another coating of two-part marine epoxy.
In fact, after the fiberglass repairs are made to the body, and the new subfloor and all of my planned furniture mounting brackets/cleats are also glassed into place (no more through-shell rivets!), the entire interior is coated with the epoxy— making everything water-tight before the new insulation and wall coverings are installed.
Here are some drawings of what I have in mind for the exterior—if everything comes together as I hope...
You may have noticed that the styling of this 1971 model is much like that of contemporary Scamps, and actually predates the recessed taillight feature of later Bolers. But I'm considering doing some custom body work to emulate that iconic look.
Also of note, the client has also asked for radius-cornered modern windows. Because of the custom interior design, I plan on using a "Perris Pacer"-size window for the street-side.
Really like the layout!
Meets the two main needs very well.
Is the stove sink unit a picture of the new unit?
The bed extender is a great idea; with lots of counter space for cooking
The Maple leaf at back has the Wow factor.
Will you put the drinking and grey water above grade?
Wish ours was or at the least had insulation between the outside and tanks for those colder days. (we winter camp and it gets cold in Canada)
Will you add fridge under counter, hot water and what about furnace for heating?
P.S. the retro rear light idea would also be trick. It would give the boler signature.
The cooktop/sink combo is a SMEV/Dometic unit and indeed what the owner has proposed to install. Very cool... Built-in faucet, counter-top flush mounting. The Dometic 3-way refrigerator will be in the same basic position as it was originally. However, I've found some much more attractive vents for external access.
An on-board water tank will be installed within a rear bench. Again, as is typical. But gray water will drain into an outside "blue" portable holding tank.
A Camco Wave 3 catalytic heater will keep things toasty, when necessary. And, yes, a water heater is also under consideration.
A few other details: Shurflo vent/fan; iPod docking port and audio speakers; power converter/charger; awning. Perhaps more...
Let me say that the owners are very keen on making this trailer uniquely theirs... And they plan on using it a lot, and for a long time.
The owners were not too concerned about the width of the bed. But, because all of the furniture/cabinetry will be custom, I was able to widen it by about six inches. My drawings indicate a 54" width, but we'll see what's what when we get into the actual construction.
I had to make a number of patches, and fill a lot of holes in the fiberglass before I can get it to the body shop.
A new ShurFlo fan is going in the ceiling, so the old vent had to yanked and the hole filled. The original heater was tossed, so the exhaust vent also had to be removed and patched. In fact, every original hole was filled, so that I can make new ones where necessary.
Evidently typical with old Bolers, there was a bad crack in the upper right hand corner of the door frame. This had to fixed.
We are replacing the two side windows with new ones ordered from Hehr. These will have radius-corners, like those of contemporary Scamps (and others). So the original rectangular window cutouts had to be modified for the new style with "gussets" added to the corners. The street-side window is oversized—similar to those of the Perris Pacers.
Perris Pacer
Scamper
Trailswest Campster
ET-19
Boler
Bean
Linear Mode
