1971 Hunter Compact rebuild

[Down the Road]

Hi Folks, I have recently purchased a 1971 Hunter for a rebuild. I would like to add a support beam forward. Do I have to remove the fiberglass shell from the frame or can it be done while the shell is on the frame? I need to add more tongue weight and plan to accomplish that by adding a fresh water tank to the front wall of camper but feel it could use more support in the frame.

[Bob Miller]

Whoa...... What's the real problem and why do you want/need to add tongue weight?

First, by "Support beam" are you talking about adding to the frame?

Second, I have added extra strength to the tongue by having additional angle steel welded to the frame, extending from the hitch back to about 24" under the trailer. This was done with the shell intact and took all of about 45 minutes and $120 at a local trailer fabrication shop

Third, as your water tank is already well forward of the axle, just filling that with water will add about another 50-60 lbs of tongue weight, but I try to keep less than 3-4 gallons in mine when travelling.

[Down the Road]

Hi Bob,thanks for the response. My Hunter is very light on the tongue and it sounds like it is loose on the coupler/receiver. I have the right size ball and hitch. I was thinking about moving the water tank front and center to add more weight and also add more weld to the tongue. There is a 4 foot span at the front of the frame and was thinking about welding another cross bar to support the water tank of 12-15 gallons. I do not plan to keep it full during transit, only partially. Is there a wt balance issue with putting it in front of the wheel well on the left side? I will be adding ac and battery to the front of camper. I really dont want to remove the fiberglass shell to beef up the frame as it is in good shape with minimal rust. Just didn't want to burn it down by welding with the shell on.

[Down the Road]

Bob, I forgot to mention that when I step in the back door without the stabilizers down the tongue lifts off the ground. I weigh 152 pounds.

[Bob Miller]

If your hitch is "loose" adding weight isn't really a fix, but a band-aid. I suggest that you get a new hitch head welded onto the tongue, just as I had to do with the then 38 y.o. hitch on mine. Also, if you are using a receiver and draw bar hitch, there is a clamp that will stop movement in the receiver and is well worth the investment.

Adding a battery and an A/C in front will be adding a lot of weight and might offset your tilting problem. If not, just do as I always do and keep the rear stabilizers right inside the back door to be placed as soon as you unhitch.

My reinforcements run parallel to the frame, so as to prevent flexing where the tongue passes under the coach body. Without reinforcing that first I would be careful about adding more weight to the tongue. Keep in mint, that on a good hard bump, that the weight of what's on the tongue can increase 6-8 times dead weight.

As far as danger when welding, not to worry, any experienced welder will know how to protect the bodywork with a heat shield when welding.

[Larry&Carrie]

Yes, they are very tongue light....The one I rebuilt had only about 35# or 40# when I brought it home.... http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-jr-32790.html in '08...
Since I modded it for "Boon Docking", no battery, water tank, etc, to gain tongue weight I added a spare along with a 7 1/2 gal propane tank.
Had to put stabilizers on also to keep from lifting the tongue.....

[Larry&Carrie]

Oh, forgot--- the floor goes in after the body is back on the frame. Take a look, the fiberglass wrap around of the body is sandwiched between frame and floor....

[Down the Road]

Larry, I read all posts on your rebuild. Very good information, thank you.
How did you pull the floor out from under the door frame?
How did you connect the two floor pieces together?
Would it be a good idea to put the shorter piece of floor at the rear where there is more support and not place another cross beam up front?
Patricia

[Down the Road]

Thanks Bob. The coupler is tight, I think the problem is in the receiver. Maybe if I drop the hitch another couple inches from 3 1/4 to 5inches that may help also as it is a tad bit too high.
Good to know I don't have to do an off frame weld.
Patricia

[Bob Miller]

Here is a link to anti-rattle clamp I use on my drawbars:
Roadmaster Quiet Hitch for 2" Trailer Hitches Roadmaster Hitch Accessories RM-061