1973 Compact II by Hunter

[Brian B-P]

... I plan to add about 300 pounds on my tongue but plan to counter that with about 120 pounds in back. so should net about 180 pounds of actual tongue weight...

Since anything added to the back will be closer to the axle than the additions on the tongue, the net effect won't be just the difference. It's a matter of balancing torques, and torque is distance multiplied by force.

This is how I would go about estimating the net effect:

1. I would measure from the axle to the rear weight location, multiply that by the rear weight added, and call that the torque tilting the trailer back.
2. I would do the same at the front (distance from axle to tongue area mulitplied by weight added to the tongue) and call that the torque tilting the trailer forward.
3. Subtract, and I'd have the net effect (as torque)
4. Divide net torque by the distance from the axle to the ball, and the result is how much weight will be carried by the hitch - the rest will be carried by the axle.

For example,

1. 120 lbs 4 ft behind the axle is 480 lb-ft tilting back
2. 300 lbs on the tongue 8 ft ahead of the axle is 2400 lb-ft tiliting forward
3. 2400 minus 480 is 1920 lb-ft net torque
4. 1920 lb-ft divided by 10 feet from axle to ball means 192 lb net hitch weight increase

My distances are only guesses, but my guess is somewhat higher than the result of just subracting 120 from 300. Darrel, your subtraction doesn't account for the fact that the tonque weight is further from the axle than the rear weight, but you also didn't account for the fact that the coupler is further from the axle than the added weight on the tongue area, so the two factors partially cancel each other out. I'll assume you took that into account...

An extra couple hundred pounds sounds to me like a lot of extra hitch weight for a Bronco II, but I don't know what its limits are.

[Brian B-P]

Darrel, thanks for the detailed information about the interchangeable coupling hardware. Now that I realize your're using a pintle-and-hook for offroad conditions, it all makes sense.

Some commercial trailers use pintle rings like Darrel's, bolted into a channel the same way. I have seen trailers which mount a ball coupler the same way, which would allow interchanging without needing the 2" square receiver setup. I guess an advantage of Darrel's receiver is that the changeover is an easy one-pin operation with a spring clip, instead of two bolts with nuts.



The image shows the coupler of a Trailtech L270HD, with a 12' dump box and 14,000 lb of axle capacity - a little bit heavier-duty than our eggs, but the principles are the same.

There are also special couplers for trailers which go off-road, some of which do not use a ball at all and still don't have the free play of a pintle setup. As an alternative, some people set up the ball coupler on the end of a section of round tubing which is free to rotate, so that it doesn't hit a limit as the rig twists; I don't know how smoothly that handles twisting while the rig turns a corner.

[MyronL]

Hats off! Great work, Darrel.

[Darrel Smith]

Thank You Bryan, you are absolutely correct. I was using a simple cause and effect without factoring the difference in fulcrum distances which would definately make things a little less accurate.

The third hitch method you mentioned is a direct connection to the box receiver on the trailer to the receiver on the tow with a universal joint type connection in between which allows for full articulation without the looseness of a pintle hook up. I have seen similar connections on the tow bars used on big RV rigs which tow smaller life boats (cars) behind. I had thought about using that set up once I get this thing on the road. It could be kept on without the need to change for off road and on road towing.

Thank you again for your help.

Darrel

[Darrel Smith]

Thank you Myron.

My wife thinks I am going into my age onset second childhood with this project. The truth is that I think she is right. I now have a slight advantage over childhood dreams having had a fiew life experiences to whet my ideas and plans.

Darrel

[Linda of San Diego]

Darrel, I could not beleve it when I saw the pictures, that is my trailer (almost). I have a 1974 Hunter II (no mention of compact, anywhere), also red without the white stripe( but that's cool too). I also found it in someones front yard. The interior looks a little different, I have the white diamond tuck, but on the sink & stove side I only have 1 drawer and an icebox. I have replaced the curtains and cushions (they were southwest them, oranges and browns) done now in blue demim and strawberries. My dad rewired the trailer and replaced an electrical light. I had the popup tent remade. The outside was badly oxidized but we tried many things to clean it up, what worked best to remove the oxidizion was WD-40 in the gallon size and a sponge. I have taken it all over southern Calif and to Az. Everyone always want to see it. You have done a great job on yours. I will post some pictures soon.

Thanks,
Linda

[Darrel Smith]

Thank you Linda this project has been a labor of love. I thoroughly enjoy working on the trailer and hope to have it done by next spring. I have not done a thing on it for about a year now as other major project have priority. I have completely gutted the trailer including floor removal and am planning to rebuild using durable, lightweight and easily maintained materials. I will be posting updates as soon as I get started later this year.
Good luck on your Hunter II. I will be looking for your pictures.
Welcome to the forum.

Darrel

[Darrel Smith]

Wow where does the time go. I cant believe it has been almost a year since I last worked on my trailer. I finally got my honey do projects done (well almost) and decided it was time for my me do project and told my wife I will get to them when I'm done with my trailer. Actually I want to take it camping in august so I have to go to work on it.

Well my last post I explained that I had completely gutted the trailer said I would post pictures soon. It is not so soon but here are the pictures showing the empty shell.









I have a fiew more but that should give you an Idea of what I'm working with.

[Linda of San Diego]

Darrel,
You sure do have a lot of work to do. But it will be great once you get it done the way you want.

See pictures of my Red Hunter I under "Show us your rigs" under General Chat, Page 15.

Good luck on your project.

Linda

[Darrel Smith]

Linda your Hunter I sure looks like my Compact II when I got it. You are right about the inside layout being a little different. My "Bedroll" will be just that. I am planning to change the bed from a across the front layout to a lengthwise layout with a full 80 inches which will give us a 72 by 80 inch bed when made up and full dinette seating when made up. I will not have any stove. sink, A/C or ice box built in. Instead I will have modular arrangement so I can use them inside, outside, or removed, as the needs dictate.

One challenge I have had to work out is in changing the roof support. When I took out the cabinets they were holding up the roof. The roof is a little heavier with the pop up mechanism so it sags without the support. Also by enlarging the bed, the support location is moved about 20 inches to the rear.

Does anyone have suggestions how to take care of this problem?

[JoeyM]

hello darrel,
you have given me great inspiration to get moving on my compact II project. i will leaving for my first camping trip with my compact II on wednesday. looking at the pictures of the empty shell has given me numerous ideas on how to make a layout that best suits my needs. the issue with the supports will be challenging, but not impossible. i will be attempting to design a layout that will sleep 4. i will not need a cooktop or sink, but a refrigerator and bathroom would be ideal. i will check on this thread from time to time and share some ideas as well. keep up the great work!!!

joey

[Bobbie Mayer]

the issue with the supports will be challenging, but not impossible. i will be attempting to design a layout that will sleep 4. i will not need a cooktop or sink, but a refrigerator and bathroom would be ideal.
joey

Sleeping 4 AND putting a bathroom in a Compact II sounds pretty challenging.

As to the supports: Can you put up a plywood rib structure of some kind?

Something like what is seen in this picture:




Bobbie

[Darrel Smith]

Joey

Your sleeping for 4 with bath and fridge sounds challenging. If it is four adults I think it would be tough to sardine them in this little 10 foot by 6 foot space in the compact II. I want a generous sleeping area so we wont be cramped and will be using coolers, portable toilet. I have worked out a plan for shower facilities using some ideas from this forum. All will be modular as well so they can be used in or out as needed. I also will not be reinstalling my 16 gallon fresh water tank. I have devised a portable (modular) system which I am working on that will give me some versatility in that area also.


Bobbie

Those wood trusses could work but I am trying to stay away from any wood other than the floor in my trailer rebuild. I removed the cabinets and floor from mine because of wood rot and deteriation. I am going to use aluminum and fiberglass for the most part in my re-do so I won't have to worry about that any more.

( ps: Is that your boat project? nice!)

[Bobbie Mayer]

Nope, not mine, my boat is molded fiberglass! But if you use marine plywood it isn't going to rot.

Bobbie

[Darrel Smith]

Bobbie
I agree the wood should be waterproof. I am using a waterproof louan (mahogany) wood sub floor material for my new floor. I hope that will keep the floor from deteriorating.

I think I have figured out a plan for the roof support. I will use a 2x2 aluminum square tube running lengthwise along each side of the pop up opening. I will use a 2x2 upright aluminum support each side from the floor to the lengthwise tube positioned at the end of the dinette / bed position. I think this will give a cantalever support to hold the roof in position. The aluminum will be light weight and strong and I can run wires through it along each side to provide lighting points as needed. The front 2 feet of the roof tapers downward so I will trim the square tubing to match that taper to give continuity to the support. Also I will trim the back of the support to contour the door opening area and connect to my new aluminum door frame. That should provide a firm attachment at the end of the lengthwise support as well as the upright floor to roof brace support. I hope this explanation isn't too complicated.

The origional wood support was all laminated with fiberglass to the roof but I have removed all of that. I will attach this lengthwise beam to the Pop up flange with aluminum braces. I will provide pictures of my progress.

[Darrel Smith]

I finally started to put Bedroll back together. The problem with the factory floor, besides being rotted, was it fit down the middle of the floor and left open areas on the side. I think it was ment to keep it light and was covered by cabinetry. It also allowed water to run out under the floor. Unfortunately it also allowed dust and vermin to come in. I also decided that the four foot wide panel was the largest floor they could fit through the door. As you can see in the pictures the fiberglass wraps under the trailer like the casita but leaves a rectangular opening in the center.

My plan for the floor was to build it to cover the whole floor up to the curve of the fiberglass wall. Because I couldn't fit a full premade floor through the door I decided to cut it outside and then laminate it in place in the trailer.

I Really wanted a non wood floor but Aluminum and polyethylene were too expensive. I finally compromised by using luan panels which are used for subflooring applications in homes.

Here is the future floor:



First I made a template from heavy cardboard (neighbors discarded water heater box)




Here is the first cut using the cardboard template for a pattern transfer to the luan. I used two sheets for the first cut plus a 1 foot section through the middle.




This is the layout in the trailer





Here is the first cut of the second layer.




I still need to cut the five filler sections for the ends and sides of this panel and another full panel (repeat of first cut)for the third lamination. I got a killer deal on gorilla glue to use for the laminating adhesive. Lowes wanted 18 bucks for an 18 ounce bottle but had a sale on the 36 ounce bottle for 15 bucks. This is as far as I got last night. I will update this post as I go.

[Darrel Smith]

Here are more pictures of my resto mod of Bedroll.
This first one is the other floor sections cut out on the second lamination layer.




This is the third lamination for the floor.




These pictures show the Propane tank, Battery mount and tongue jack I have installed.





Notice that the jack is inside the frame and swings under the battery case. I did this so any off road obsticles would not catch the jack and rip it off.

[Darrel Smith]

Well the bedroll is rolling. I took it on an outing this month. It is not finished but usable. Here are a fiew pictures showing my progress to date.
the first pictures show the floor pieces being laminated.

[Darrel Smith]

[Darrel Smith]

This picture shows the completed floor and an aluminum shield I installed to prevent deterioration from the exposed floor under the trailer.