1974 Amerigo FG-16 "Alice" Gut & Re-Build - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-14-2015, 07:42 PM   #21
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Post 9 1974 Amerigo "Alice" Gut & Re-build

Even more Gutting fun!
The replacement of the belly band begins...
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:58 PM   #22
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Post 10 1974 Amerigo "Alice" Gut & Re-build

on it goes...
Belly band wood was totally rotted out.
Used hole saw for running lights access. I found some desk computer cable hole covers that matched interior fiberglass color perfectly and will install those in the holes after the wiring is done.
I am going to install all new LED lighting inside and out. I have some nice LED running lights that I found on Amazon and some white LED panels for the interior that I found on ebay.
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:20 PM   #23
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Post 11 1974 Amerigo "Alice" Gut & Re-build

Post belly band replacement, Then the paint job...
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:33 PM   #24
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Post 12 1974 Amerigo "Alice" Gut & Re-build

The paint job and Flooring installation. Installed reflectix on the underside of all flooring, Then after flooring installed, re-fiberglassed front section edges to shell like it was from the factory. Also, put a coating of fiberglass resin on the top side of new flooring.
You will notice the old fridge and stove vents have vanished! I probably weng through 1.5 gallons of fiberglass resin patching things up. The fridge vent patch turned out really good, but the stove vent was tough as it was cut out in the middle of a ridge. It is still visible but at this point, I no longer care :-)
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:49 PM   #25
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Post 13 1974 Amerigo "Alice" Gut & Re-build

Flooring install w/fiberglassing-beginning of insulation of the shell
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:11 PM   #26
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Post 14 1974 Amerigo "Alice" Gut & Re-build

Pink insulation was a 1/4" folded up stuff I got at Home Depot, then installed Reflectix over it. I used HDX spray on glue and metal flue tape to hold it all together. The HDX glue did not work very well gluing the pink stuff to the shell, but it worked very well gluing the reflectix to the pink stuff. I think the reason the HDX glue did not work very well gluing the pink insulation to the shell is that the pink insulation did not form very well as it is kind of stiff. Lots of cutting and sizing. I think all told, I went through close to 30 cans!
I also built new window frames and re-installed the windows, the windows help hold everything together. I am kind of disappointed in the condition of the windows-they are not designed very well and are showing their age. But, at close to $500 a pop to replace them new I guess I can live with them.
The weather stripping between the glass and the frame was shot-hard as a rock. I found this stuff at Menards. It had a double "T" coming off of one side. I trimmed the outer "T" off of it with a scissors and it fit into the channel pretty well.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:23 PM   #27
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Post 15 1974 Amerigo "Alice" Gut & Re-build

Ok! Now that the Trailer is re-done, the belly band has been replaced, the shell is painted, the interior is insulated, the new flooring is in-It is time to tackle the door. One of the FO's thought it would be a good idea to just splooge silicone all over the place, and I mean ALL OVER the place between the door frame and the shell. I spent many hours getting it off of the shell in prep for painting, now I get to scrape it off of the door frame. What a mess. The weather is turning colder now and I have gone through two summers of working virtually every weekend on this project. I was hoping to have it done for hunting season this year, but alas...it was not to be, but hey! I did not have any plans for next summer!
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:28 PM   #28
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Do you have a pic of the window repair stuff that you found? Or a pic of the repaired window? Was the repair done on an Amerigo?
Thanks!
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:35 PM   #29
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I plan on re-building it in a similar fashion as original, except i ditched the stove/furnace and fridge. I am replacing the stove/furnace with a slide in stove top I picked up new on Amazon for $75 and a camco quartz heater. I also got a deal on a new dorm sized electric only fridge. I lost a couple of hundred pounds of weight and asphyxiation worries in the process.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:38 PM   #30
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I used 4X8 sheets...
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:45 AM   #31
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They really loved that one pattern of flooring.... my snap n' nap has the same pattern, well until I take the floor up to replace it.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:13 AM   #32
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Stuart, If you are talking about the Amerigo window latches, I posted some pics of what I had done here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ows-72039.html
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:52 PM   #33
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Thank you. Did it take 4 sheets? Did you use the marine grade $80 a sheet stuff? Did you piece anywhere? We're trying to lay out (mentally and on paper) how the new ply will go in and how much it'll take and cost, and how small the pieces can be before they're too small for strength...right now it's a hodge-podge of pieces no bigger than 2x2' --
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:50 PM   #34
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Flooring plywood

I used plain old 5/8" plywood. The rear took one sheet, the front is wider and I had to use the big piece sideways to reach the side walls. I believe I had purchased three sheets. I think "Marine grade" would be a waste of $ if you can even find any. The factory used the same stuff I did. I just coated the top with fiberglass resin after replacing the fiberglass cloth/resin securing the floor to the walls. The factory floor lasted 40 years with no resin coating...
Another thing I did that was better than factory was to fiberglass cloth/resin the seam towards the front of the camper where the "sideways" sheet met the smaller piece. I had placed a 2X4 under the floor to secure the two together with stainless screws, then did the fiberglass on top of the seam.
There is a valley in the fiberglass pan to accommodate the 2X4...
Make sure you use 5/8" or you may not be able to get your door frame back in....look for an original section and measure it.
The less pieces, the sturdier it will be.
I have one piece in the rear, two in the front.
My new floor is rock solid now!
See post 13 Pg 2
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:33 PM   #35
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Hi, Mr. Stu,
We had thought 3 pieces, too, one in the very front, a larger one spanning the doorway to the step, and then the upper piece.
With the fridge out, the grate/vent area makes a really nice extra window space...but is that possible?
Are you putting the furniture back in the same places? Any unusual innovation? We're playing around with it on paper, but a lot will probably go in exactly the same...still, we propped that vent open and were really enjoying the wide open space!
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:36 PM   #36
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Red face Silly me--missed this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Stu View Post
I plan on re-building it in a similar fashion as original, except i ditched the stove/furnace and fridge. I am replacing the stove/furnace with a slide in stove top I picked up new on Amazon for $75 and a camco quartz heater. I also got a deal on a new dorm sized electric only fridge. I lost a couple of hundred pounds of weight and asphyxiation worries in the process.

OK. got it. So you're going all electric, that is, no propane? We're doing the same, though so far we're not planning on putting in a fridge or stove, just using ice chests and a small cooktop and little appliances. Maybe a solar panel eventually.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:18 PM   #37
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Flooring/stove/vents...etc

I will be using propane for the stove top and heater, just not the fridge.
As far as flooring goes, I went with one sheet in the back upper, then as large a piece as i could from that forward then a smaller piece to fill in the rest in the front. I would recommend doing it that way so that your weight when you step into the trailer is distributed more evenly. The front fill in piece will mostly be covered by the bench seat. After my bench seat pull out is in, the only place I will be walking is on unbroken sheets of plywood.
Yes, I plan on a similar arrangement as original except I will not be re-installing the chemical toilet or the big heavy appliances. I will have a propane slide-in 3 burner cook top and a camco propane heater (Wave 3)
Item
I am going to re-build the kitchen cabinet/counter top and the refrigerator cabinet. I completely glassed over the old heater and fridge vents. I live in Minnesota and will have the occasion to use my rig in the winter. Those big vents would have made for very cold nights!
As far as anything new/Innovations go. Virtually everything but the windows is being replaced. I purchased a new power distribution center, all new wiring, all LED lighting inside and out.
I am going to over wire my rig with 12v and 110v in all of the cabinets and have led lighting inside all of them as well as on the underside of the upper cabinets. I am also going to pre-wire for a bluetooth car stereo should I decide to add that later. I don't want to have to pull paneling for a later upgrade...
I am bummed out it is getting colder so fast!
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:41 PM   #38
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layout

P.S. The only reason I am going with the old layout style is for roof support. With the added factory fiberglass ceiling liner, I have seen pics of some of these where major roof sag had occurred...
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Old 10-17-2015, 07:39 AM   #39
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Thanks! Agree with the plywood layout. BIG question--how, exactly, does one work on the plywood removal & replacement without stepping on the fiberglass underneath? Hate to admit it, but we're doing this outside in the driveway, and planning to use a big tarp to cover it during the winter (which is almost here.) We'll probably have to wait till next summer to pull the windows and therefore the upper inside panels (mostly).


And...after reading about your ideas, yes, having a fridge would be a good thing; those dorm size fridges even have freezers, sometimes, how do you keep them inside a cabinet? Stop them from sliding around? How much air space do they need around them to work properly?
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Old 10-17-2015, 01:14 PM   #40
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flooring

I just put a scrap chunk of plywood that i could move around that was big enough to support my weight. I kneeled on that while I worked.
I purchased one of the taller dorm fridges with a freezer. I am going to re-build the cabinets anyway, I will just build it to fit and hold it in place. Probably use some sort of velcro arrangement to keep it closed while towing...
As far as air goes for the fridge, probably enough will get around it on the sides and the rear. since it is not gas operated I am not terribly worried about it.
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