1981 Scamp 13' Mods

[BruceG]

We pulled our 1981 Scamp 13' home the last week of March. I know you all have seen one before, but we got one in pretty good condition (and paid a bit too much). The previous owners took good care of it inside and out. But of course it needed a little cleaning and I can't resist starting in on the modifications right away.

So far this includes cleaning the exterior shell, adding an exterior light, adding a side hatch door and new power inlet, shelves in the tall closet, a removable table extension piece to make the bed a bit wider, three new tires, and pulling out the ruptured leaking copper gas line to the stove.

Still to come - new gas line, new battery, battery box and charger, adding more 110v outlets, a radio (and speakers?), rewiring the 12v accessories, and I'm considering a new axel and brakes, and brake controller and a sway bar stabilzer.

It is pretty close to being road-ready now, and we are anxious to get camping. We're also planning to attend Eggfest / Scamp Camp in LaCrosse, WI, September 15-19.

More mods to come soon.

[BruceG]

<div align="left"> I have never been a fan of the power cord that pushes in through the hole in the side of the camper.


</div>
It kind of makes the space under the dinnete seat unusable for other storage. I was at Cabela's and found a locking hatch cover for a boat and bought it not knowing if it would fit. It turned out to be the perfect size for the left rear panel , just in front of the rear side clearance light (the best part is that it was half-price in the bargain cave). Now I can access the storage under the seat for the power cords and water hose from the outside. I also got a charger power inlet for a boat with a "waterproof" cover. It fit nicely between the hatch and wheel well.

Hatch Cover: Sure-Seal Access Hatch, Lockable Latch, 11" X 15"
Power Inlet: Marinco Onboard Charger Inlet 15A, 125V

I carefully measured (several times) and masked off the hole and cut it with my jig saw. I reinforced the inside edges with 1x1 wood strips glued and screwed to the fiberglass wall and then set the hatch cover in butyl putty (on several recommendations of other threads in this forum), drilled pilot holes and screwed it in to the wood backer strips with stainless steel screws.

Then I drilled a hole next to the hatch with a hole saw and mounted and wired the power inlet. The hardest part was going to five stores before I could find the exact size hole saw (1 7/8") for this model power inlet.

[BruceG]

I also have added two fold down rear supports bolted with U-bolts to the the rear bumper frame.





I added a 12v exterior light and new foam weather strip for the door seal.





I'll show you what I did with the table/bed extension as soon as the varnish dries and I get it installed and can take a picture.

[Joe Steadman]

Looking good...

[Pam Garlow]

I need those fold down jacks on my trailer too. Can you post a photo showing the attachment to your bumper? where did you get them from
Thanks

[Joe Steadman]

I need those fold down jacks on my trailer too. Can you post a photo showing the attachment to your bumper? where did you get them from
Thanks

Mine came with them? I thought they where standard?

[BruceG]

I need those fold down jacks on my trailer too. Can you post a photo showing the attachment to your bumper? where did you get them from
Thanks

I got the jacks from Scamp - http://shop.scamptrailers.com/ - I mounted them with U-bolts and lock washers, and made some blocks to put on either side of the bolts so they don't shift. I hope you can see it in the picture.

[BruceG]

Here is the piece of 3/4 oak plywood that I built to fit around the table when it is down in the bed position. There are wood supports under the wings on the angled sides to hold it in the correct position, and it has a support across the bottom for extra stiffening support. Now we can sit on the edge of the bed, and won't be sliding off the edge when sleeping.

[Rachaelholland]

Bruce...that is brilliant!!! I was trying to come up with like that!! How did you do the wood supports to keep it in place? Thanks

[BruceG]

Bruce...that is brilliant!!! I was trying to come up with like that!! How did you do the wood supports to keep it in place? Thanks

Rachel - I don't have a photo of the supports right now, but I'll take one and post it later. The extension board partially sits on the same molded lip that supports the table top. The angled wings on either side did not have a support under them and would tend to allow the whole extension to tip. I cut two 3/4" X 3/4" wood pieces the length of each angled side, drilled holes through the boards and the fiberglass bench side and added a 1X2X7" backer board on the inside of the bench as extra support. I used 1 1/2" machine screws with lock washers and nuts through the supports, bench and backer board. I also used construction adhesive on the backer board to glue it to the inside of the bench.
By the way. I made a full size template of the extension piece out of cardboard first and then traced it on the plywood before cutting it. Nothing in this trailer is square, parallel or plumb, so I think it is important to make templates for everything before cutting.

[james kent]

Here's something similar. It sits on a bit of the table support and is also supported on the front edge. Just a bit of plywood and a length of piano hinge so that it'll fold flat

[BruceG]

Attachment 28301


Here's something similar. It sits on a bit of the table support and is also supported on the front edge. Just a bit of plywood and a length of piano hinge so that it'll fold flat

That's a great idea. I like the cutout so you can still get to the under-table storage when traveling.