1993 Scamp 16' repair and remodel - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-27-2015, 03:29 PM   #61
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Small steps

Today, I finished pulling the old carpet from the inside including the baseboards. I scraped everything clean down to the metal and then painted POR15 to seal the baseboards. The can of POR recommends two coats so we'll try to hit that again in the near future but I don't know when we'll get fair weather like today: December 27th and it's was 72° at 2:00 pm when I started. We bought a quart and I didn't know how far that stuff would go so I poured out 1/3 of the can and used it to coat all three baseboards, the rear bumper and most of the front hitch. It's really cloudy outside and I don't know if the rain will hold off long enough for the POR on the hitch and bumper to set but I was going to throw it all out anyway since the can specifically instructed not to "paint from the can."

The finished product looks pretty good compared to what I started on but it's a stinky mess to clean up. Glad I bought the cheap brushes and just threw it away.

I believe there's enough left in the quart can to hit most of the frame under the Skank with at least one coat in a attempt to seal off a lot of that metal from additional corrosion. POR15 has a great reputation with car enthusiasts for protecting the frame on rebuilt antique and vintage cars. I figure it can't hurt the Skank.
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:25 PM   #62
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I ordered these, they are popular for Boler/Scamp hinge repairs - also a you-tube video



This short video shows you how easy it is to rebuild your Boler or Scamp door hinges with our marine grade Stainless Steel hinge repair kit from Complete Guide to 13′ Boler Fiberglass Trailers
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:37 PM   #63
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This short video shows you how easy it is to rebuild your Boler or Scamp door hinges with our marine grade Stainless Steel hinge repair kit from Complete Guide to 13′ Boler Fiberglass Trailers
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:11 AM   #64
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I pulled the bathroom window out yesterday and cleaned the face of the Skank as well as the backside of the window of the foam rubber sealant and acrylic caulk that the PO had applied in an attempt to stop the window from leaking.

Actually, it took me about three minutes to get the window out and over an hour to clean the window frame. What a mess! I used a single side razor blade to clean the outside of the trailer skin and a putty knife on the window frame and then wiped it down with alcohol to completely remove any remnants of the caulk.

Reinstalling the window was a little tricky but the butyl tape was pretty sticky and held the window in place while I went back inside to catch the window with the frame/screws to complete the installation.

I think I used too much butyl tape because I was having trouble getting the frame to pull down against the skin of the trailer. Oh well, live and learn. If I have to re-do the job I won't be too unhappy since this was a small window and I consider this a victory as a learning experience.

Oh yah, it was way too cold at 55° to allow the butyl tape to remain pliable as well as sticky. That means it'll be a while before I can finish resealing all the other windows.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:26 AM   #65
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I have to remember to not rotate the camera when taking pictures because they won't post to correct position unless I adjust them in my computer. I've been too lazy to make those adjustments so they posted rotated 90°. Sorry 'bout that.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:04 PM   #66
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My oh my, where to begin

I've been on vacation for the last week and Laura and I have joined forces for the last four days to really make some changes to the Skank! We are ready for a road test!

Starting with removing the spare tire mount on the rear outside and added the bumper mount for the spare. When I pulled the second mount bolt from the back wall it pulled through the wall completely and freaked me out! I immediately imagined that tire pulling loose from the one remaining mount bolt and bouncing down the road at 55 mph. Not going to be a problem for us because our new tire mount is really cool and very reliable.

The rope cover is off for now and those rusty bolts are history!
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:15 PM   #67
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Fresh water fill is off and new shore power line attached

We've decided to incorporate an external fresh water tank the uses a cooler attached to the braided water line when boondocking so we've removed the interior fresh water tank and gained the storage.

I've also managed to pick up a new shore power connection that enables us to remove the power cable extension cord from under the dinette seat so we gain all that area for storage. I plan to move the Shurflow pump to under the sink area.

We've removed the old flooring and replaced the almost new carpet with inexpensive vinyl that is more pet friendly and easier to sweep out when camping without a vacuum. We settled for something from Lowe's Home Improvement that was $.89/sqft. This would have been a lot cheaper if they would have sold us a smaller section but the roll was 12' wide so we ended up with a large pieces of scrap. Here is a picture of the dinette complete with the flooring and the Reflectix glued to the exterior walls to add some thermal barrier to the naked areas under the dinette seating. We massaged the vinyl to get it to lay better as we installed the bench seating because we opted for a "loose lay" installation in case we decide we want to rip it up for something else when we re-plumb all the water lines later.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:18 PM   #68
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Laura & Bill,

The flooring looks great!!!

Take care,

Dean
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:30 PM   #69
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vinyl in the front section of the living area

This installation was a team job because my arms simply weren't long enough to reach across the tiny trailer to stretch the vinyl and hold things in place. Laura was right there to help get the final product smooth and trimmed out. We added metal threshold strips the the ends to hold things in place and decided to remove the cabinet door from the front couch area to allow the dogs to have a secret hiding place when the traffic gets too heavy in the galley aisle way.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:38 PM   #70
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This reno have been a process that includes making holes in the fiberglass skin that will need to be patched. However, we've been enjoying an average temperature of about 40° that prevents us from patching anything. We've opted to simply put a piece of tape over a hole to prevent water from getting in and we've found that almost every auto parts retailer in town has fiberglass repair supplies as well as Bondo sufficient in the volume for our needs.

We still need to rework the A/C area because the floor in the closet is a mess so I've simply screwed a panel over the hole for now since A/C is the least of our worries for the immediate future.

The Skank is coming along...
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:23 PM   #71
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I immediately imagined that tire pulling loose from the one remaining mount bolt and bouncing down the road at 55 mph. Not going to be a problem for us because our new tire mount is really cool and very reliable.

!
How is the dumper mount attached? Just to the dumper as in the photo?
If you did not do some serious reinforcement to the dumper to the main frame, it may not be as reliable as you may think as the factory dumper is not meant/designed to take that weight
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:00 PM   #72
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Gosh, the flooring is absolutely beautiful!!!
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:05 PM   #73
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How is the dumper mount attached? Just to the dumper as in the photo?
If you did not do some serious reinforcement to the dumper to the main frame, it may not be as reliable as you may think as the factory dumper is not meant/designed to take that weight
Have to agree with you Carol, they just don't make dumpers like they used to .
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:38 AM   #74
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How is the dumper mount attached? Just to the dumper as in the photo?
If you did not do some serious reinforcement to the dumper to the main frame, it may not be as reliable as you may think as the factory dumper is not meant/designed to take that weight
Carol, do you mean the "bumper"? I imagine it can handle the weight of the spare tire since the rear bumper has the receiver for the hitch mount that would afford the ability to add a bike rack or some other accessory The slight weight of the spare tire and mount shouldn't be too much. I estimate that the mount and the tire/wheel combination weighs less that 100 lbs and a representative from Scamp informed me that their rear bumper mount and sustain about 300 lbs. So, we're ok. Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:52 AM   #75
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Installing the Scamp receiver hitch requires the addition of a frame cross member under the rear of the cabin. The receiver tube is welded to the frame member as well as the bumper. I ordered and installed the hitch receiver kit from Scamp according to their instructions, and the extra frame member caught me by surprise, too. The website description forgot to mention that little detail... I'm with Carol on this one. I don't think the bumper alone is stout enough to support a spare tire mount.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:57 AM   #76
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Remember the 'lever principle'.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:42 PM   #77
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1993 Scamp 16' repair and remodel

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Remember the 'lever principle'.
Actually, it seems to me the lever principle works in favor of a spare tire versus a bicycle rack of equal weight, since the bicycles hang out further from the bumper. Still, I think either requires additional attachment to the frame.

Bicycle racks have been reported to cause towing stability issues (i.e., sway ) if overall loading, balance, and tongue weight are not managed carefully. Moving the spare tire 6"-12" further rearward, plus the weight of the mounting set-up (whatever you come up with), could do the same. Bottom line is that with a small, lightweight trailer, little changes can have a proportionally greater impact on stability.

There is a company (Orbital??) that makes a receiver that bolts directly to the frame of Casitas and Scamps, bypassing the bumper altogether. If it can support a couple of bikes, it might also be able to support a spare tire mount. If I had a do-over, I'd have gone that route. Perhaps you could mount the upright post from an old bicycle rack into the bolt-on receiver, and attach the spare tire to the front of the post (between the post and the cabin). That would keep the weight forward. Just thinking out loud here...
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:12 PM   #78
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There is a company (Orbital??) that makes a receiver that bolts directly to the frame of Casitas and Scamps, bypassing the bumper altogether.
Actually the Orbital receiver also is attached to the bumper, on the Scamps.
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:28 PM   #79
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I called Scamp

and they informed me that the hitch for my year would support up to 300 lbs. Now, before y'all flame me for saying, "well, they told me...," let me say that this was a factory installed bumper and hitch assembly as far as I can tell.
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:18 PM   #80
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Bill, I certainly didn't mean to flame you and I'm truly sorry it came across that way.

I did not understand that you already have a factory installed receiver, which I assume has the additional frame reinforcement and attachment. So, as long as you factor in some extra weight on the back as you load the trailer, I see no problem with going ahead and using the receiver to mount the spare tire. I do like the idea of keeping it as close to the back of the trailer as possible.

Donna, thanks for the clarification regarding the Orbital set-up.
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all electric, bed extension, bumper mount spare, external fresh water tank, extra overhead cabinets, rebuild, renovation, scamp, sixteen, sliding rear window, thetford casette toilet


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