30A Marinco inlet addition

[John in Michigan]

Kay, the 10 ga wire is fine, but since you will be tying into 30 amp shore power, unless your breaker box is rated for 30 amps or higher, you definitely have a problem.

[likeair2me]

The box already has two 15A breakers in it. Wouldn't that be a 30A box?

[John in Michigan]

Probably a 15 or 20 amp sub-panel box with no main breaker. There should be a label somewhere on the box indicating its rating.

Edit: Just as with any breaker/fuse panel, you can't base the box rating on the values of the breakers/fuses that are installed. For example, with a 30 amp rated distribution box, there could be 4 15 amp circuits installed (Steve Dunham's example).

[steve dunham]

The amp rating of a load center is based on the size of the bus and how the bus is braced for fault current. The breakers have no bearing on the rating.

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

The amp rating of a load center is based on the size of the bus and how the bus is braced for fault current. The breaker have no bearing on the rating.

[emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]

[stevebaz]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

The box already has two 15A breakers in it. Wouldn't that be a 30A box?

Remove the cover there should be a rating label on the back side. If your Scamp was wired like mine from the factory the incomming cord was wired to the buss inside. Attached to that bus was 2 -15 amp breakers. This is closer to a sub panel as the main supply protection comes from the outlet you plug into. Look at your power cord, you you should see embossed numbers. My origional cord was stamped 14-3 recrecational 15 amp and a series of code numbers. If you use an adapter and plug this cord into a 30 amp supply and overload the 2- 15 amp breakers you could easily melt the cord or burn up the 15 amp plug which ever would go first.

[likeair2me]

So I pulled the cover off of the breaker panel and these are the labels. One says 30Amp Main. Does that mean it is NOT a 30Amp panel and I am not reading it correctly?

And I have no intention of using the original cord with a 30A draw. That is the reason for the 30A Marinco inlet and the 30A cord. That is why I intend to replace the feed wire from the inlet to the box with 10ga wire, if indeed, the box is a 30A box.

Ding.
Come out of your corners fighting.

[John in Michigan]

OK, then it IS a 30 amp rated panel. In theory you should be able to run 30 amp shore power to it, but I'm NOT a licensed electrician, just an electrical engineer (with little experience with this type of equipment).

[likeair2me]

As a EE, I am sure you spotted the rust. I believe that is because the panel is under the 12v water faucet (that failed some years before I got it), and the water discharge for the sink is right in front of the breaker panel, which does not have a front cover or NEMA waterproof box. Minimal at best. I guess they never heard about running the electrical ABOVE any potential leaking fluids.

For now, If I can just run some A/C in the unit I will be happy. No major upgrades will happen until I get something like a PD4045, or the WFCO unit that Johnny has dealt with. If I can figure out a reasonable mount for the window, the A/C will plug in to the unused breaker on the right side of the cabinet. At least that way, I will get to use the camper for something other than a sweat lodge.

[John in Michigan]

Good luck Kay! I have 15 amp service in my Trillium 4500. To run the electric heater, I just run a 2nd 15 amp extension cord back to the campsite power post...

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

So Johnny, is your panel the WF-8540? And do you find it to have sufficient power distribution without tripping the breakers on 110V uses?

I actually have the 8725 which has a 30 amp main, and 3 branch circuits. It has what is called twin breakers - meaning 2 breakers in the space of a normal sized one so it is more compact and it has 4 DC circuits (1 for the battery) each with their own fuse. It will output up to 430 watts. It is a three stage type converter meaning it will do absortion mode, bulk mode and float charging of your battery(ies). It has a cooling fan, reverse polarity protection as well as over current, over temp & voltage protection too. The previous owner had it wired up with several a/c outlets powering a big 10000 btu Dometic roof top air, microwave, incandescent light fixture and a fluorescent light also. He also had wired in come dc incandescent lighting.

I reconfigured it on our reno, (2) 110 volt outlets 15 amps each 30 amp main 1 unused breaker, 4 dc circuits (water pump, led lighting, 12vdc outlets, and 1 spare circuit. We run our refrigerator and led tv on one outlet and our 5000 btu a/c on the other and can also charge phone off that one as needed. I can add another circuit if I need to but the need hasn't come up. We have never tripped a breaker or blown a fuse as we bought it or after the reno.

[likeair2me]

Johnny, does the unit supply surge/brown out protection too?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

Johnny, does the unit supply surge/brown out protection too?

FYI, for that I use (and recomend) Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea

[likeair2me]

Gordon, I see that the plug-in variety is much cheaper, but having it in a permanent location where it is protected is always better. One less thing to worry about breaking or getting crushed, or in my usual case, forgotten.

Is there a preferred mounting location min/max from the breaker box? Can I put one under the dinette bunk near the sink or does it need some distance?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

Gordon, I see that the plug-in variety is much cheaper...

Be sure you are comparing apples to apples.

Originally Posted by likeair2me

... but having it in a permanent location where it is protected is always better. One less thing to worry about breaking or getting crushed, or in my usual case, forgotten.

That is my thinking also but there are advantages and disadvantages either way.

Originally Posted by likeair2me

Is there a preferred mounting location min/max from the breaker box? Can I put one under the dinette bunk near the sink or does it need some distance?

See Progressive Industries Support

I put mine in my port side dinette / bed bench near the converter. I do notice a very slight hum from the contactor but it is only noticeable if it is dead quiet and I am lying on the bed with my head over the unit. I have one with a remote display which is in a cabinet where I can open the door to read the display.

[likeair2me]

Dead quiet is the sound of a power outage. LOL I keep the fan on when sleeping. When I travel I still use my white noise app on my phone. Saved me many sleepless nights.
Do the plug in types even have brownout protection?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

Do the plug in types even have brownout protection?

Again, ... see comparing apples to apples. Under voltage protection is the first thing on the list.

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

Do the plug in types even have brownout protection?

Of their portable (plug-in) units, only this one offers brown-out (aka low voltage) protection, and it is more expensive than the hard-wired unit.

https://progressiveindustries.myshop...ucts/ems-pt30x



I agree with Gordon, and I also installed the "hard-wired" 30 Amp PI unit. It is more expensive than the pedestal hanging types, (with the exception of the one noted above,) but they don't tend to grow legs quite as easily when you're not around. I also installed a larger access hatch with a keyed locking latch, which was needed to perform the installation due to the size of the circuit protector. It also serves to provide a much better access to what was useless space before. Not fighting with that silly little factory installed power hatch is so much nicer.

https://progressiveindustries.myshop.../ems-hw30c-pid

[likeair2me]

Now this is some helpful stuff. Are there space considerations when installing either the panels or the surge protectors? Does an offset space or ventilation space need to be part of the location plan? I've only got a 13' camper. Not much larger than a brief case, so it's all about location, location, location.

[Casita Greg]

Most converters do require some ventilation around them, (and most have their own fans which kick on as needed to cool them.)

But the hard-wired PI circuit protectors are encased in a hard plastic case and are "O" ring gasketed, so there really isn't any need for ventilation. They are sealed solid state units.

The only space consideration would be an area sufficient in size to mount the unit, (and a little extra room to route your incoming and outgoing power lines between your shore power outlet and your electrical panel.) They can also be mounted vertically on a bulkhead as well if that works better for you.