7 way plug replacement - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-19-2021, 07:32 AM   #1
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Name: David
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7 way plug replacement

My 7 way socket on the tow vehicle recently required replacement. I installed a new Curt socket purchased from Etrailer, advertised as fitting all 7 way plugs. I should have tested this claim before installation but didn't and after installation find that my Scamp plug (original 2014 factory installation) will not fit properly. It's close but something doesn't quite line up. My tekonsa 7-way tester fits, as does a new Curt plug so I have to assume the socket is not defective.

As solution, I've purchased a Curt plug for installation on the trailer side. In order to be installed on the cable it of course comes apart into three sections and all these seams appear to me to be sources of water infiltration and I'm hesitating cutting off the nice watertight one piece molded plug and cable on the current factory-installed cable. I know I can replace the entire plug and cable with another one piece molded unit but I'd rather not get involved in replacing the cable all the way back into the trailer wiring.

Anyone have experience with these replacement plugs (trailer end) regarding water infiltration? Am I just being overly concerned?
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Old 10-19-2021, 07:43 AM   #2
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IMO, these molded trailer plugs with the waterproof j box are the best solution. I've bought a couple of these, one for the Escape, and one for the Trillium.

No connection to this seller.

On any new RV part, I always check Amazon and ebay. Sometimes, Amazon is the best deal, sometimes its ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/183359591605

Picture from ad, not shown is the cover plate for the J box.
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Old 10-19-2021, 08:41 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
IMO, these molded trailer plugs with the waterproof j box are the best solution. I've bought a couple of these, one for the Escape, and one for the Trillium.
Thanks Bill. I'm not familiar with these. Certainly appears to make future replacements and troubleshooting easier. The box is mounted inside the trailer?
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:02 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
Thanks Bill. I'm not familiar with these. Certainly appears to make future replacements and troubleshooting easier. The box is mounted inside the trailer?
Since the box is not water proof, mounting it inside the trailer is best. On my Trilliums, the cord for the 7 pin plug enters the trailer from the bottom, near the front, on the street side. It is bent 180 towards the front of the trailer and pinned to the floor using a cable clamp. From there it goes into the box.

Most of the wires exit directly to the signal and running lights. The +12VDC and -12VDC go to a DC distribution block like this: https://www.princessauto.com/en/10-c...t/PA0008684631
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:20 AM   #5
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The box claims to be waterproof and I prefer to mount on the tongue. I would not spray it down with a high pressure hose..
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:34 AM   #6
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I converted my Campster from four to seven to match my Pilot as well as pick up the battery and backup light lines. I used the Thrifty Bill approach. I don't think my box is totally water tight, but it is on the tongue in the Pacific NWet, and I've had no problems with water intrusion.
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:43 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
IMO, these molded trailer plugs with the waterproof j box are the best solution. I've bought a couple of these, one for the Escape, and one for the Trillium.

No connection to this seller.

On any new RV part, I always check Amazon and ebay. Sometimes, Amazon is the best deal, sometimes its ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/183359591605

Picture from ad, not shown is the cover plate for the J box.

Very cool, gotta get one. Gotta measure the length for my Scamp 19'
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:24 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
The box is waterproof and I prefer to mount on the tongue.
Bill; have you opened up the box since installing it. I found mine to not be waterproof unless sealed with silicone or some similar sealant
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Old 10-19-2021, 02:55 PM   #9
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trailer plug corrosion on connections

The big problem is the plug contacts to tow vehicle are brass and corrode very quickly to the point of disintergration. I use an electric silicone and liberally fill the exposed contacts with the silicone. do this each time you disconnect. I have had no trouble since using this process.
Good luck,
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Old 10-19-2021, 03:12 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jwcolby123 View Post
Very cool, gotta get one. Gotta measure the length for my Scamp 19'
John, Doesn't your whole cord go thru a hole straight into the Scamp19 on the front, same side as the entrance door. Mine goes thru a hole on front going into the bottom step storage area. I had my 12vdc to 12vdc battery charger mounted in that bottom step/storage area. So my 12 volt feed and the 7 wire cord along with the battery feed all come into there. So no need for the waterproof j box.
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Old 10-22-2021, 07:07 PM   #11
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John, Doesn't your whole cord go thru a hole straight into the Scamp19 on the front, same side as the entrance door. Mine goes thru a hole on front going into the bottom step storage area. I had my 12vdc to 12vdc battery charger mounted in that bottom step/storage area. So my 12 volt feed and the 7 wire cord along with the battery feed all come into there. So no need for the waterproof j box.
Yes to above location info.

True, no need for the waterproof junction box. However my cord is as old as my trailer (1995) so the objective is really just to replace the pigtail plug to get nice shiny (and sealed) non-corroded pins to the tow vehicle.

Having done that, placing that box in the area under the front seat now gives a nice neat little box to connect the wires from the RV side.
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Old 10-23-2021, 06:57 AM   #12
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Just noticed that with my previous set-up, both trailer plug and TV socket, appear to be brass connectors. Replacement components I've encountered are a bright silver - plated steel I guess. Is there a problem with a mixed metal mating or does replacing one end require replacing its mate to match?
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Old 10-23-2021, 08:45 AM   #13
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Better safe than sorry

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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
Just noticed that with my previous set-up, both trailer plug and TV socket, appear to be brass connectors. Replacement components I've encountered are a bright silver - plated steel I guess. Is there a problem with a mixed metal mating or does replacing one end require replacing its mate to match?
If the contacts have not already corroded I strongly advise to liberally coat the contacts at least on the plug end with silicone after each use. Otherwise they will corrode very quickly!
good luck
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Old 10-23-2021, 10:04 AM   #14
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I had an electrical fire in my first Scamp at the rat's nest of wire, Scotch Lock connectors and electrical tape where the cable from the 7 pin entered the trailer under the front couch. I replaced that mess with a junction box, also I replaced a similar connection point under the couch at the right side with a second junction box. I see in my new Scamp, they have done that work for me.
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:01 PM   #15
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rats nest I guess!

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Originally Posted by Dennis mn View Post
I had an electrical fire in my first Scamp at the rat's nest of wire, Scotch Lock connectors and electrical tape where the cable from the 7 pin entered the trailer under the front couch. I replaced that mess with a junction box, also I replaced a similar connection point under the couch at the right side with a second junction box. I see in my new Scamp, they have done that work for me.

Precisely my point. The cable comes through the wall and descends into wiring hell.


I very much like that little junction box that shows on the one we are discussing.
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:33 PM   #16
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Five minutes after you install the new plug, it could fall out on the highway and get ruined.. then you will wish you had a nice junction box for the new one. Or it will be fine for many many years.

My main concern was with the wiring for the brakes. Since I rarely tow at night, if the lights fail its not a big deal... Brakes.. big deal. So I have both pos and neg wiring to the brakes from a junction box in the front storage area. No scotch-locks, wire nuts, or frame connections.
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:45 PM   #17
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Five minutes after you install the new plug, it could fall out on the highway and get ruined.
I made a simple safety-rope to make sure that doesn't happen to me.
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Old 10-23-2021, 01:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jwcolby123 View Post
Precisely my point. The cable comes through the wall and descends into wiring hell.


I very much like that little junction box that shows on the one we are discussing.
That little junction box is attached to that cord. To put it inside your trailer, you will have to cut the cord and run the cord thru the hole into the trailer and splice it inside. Would be much cheaper to buy a separate junction box and run a cord inside to the junction box!
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Old 10-23-2021, 03:42 PM   #19
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That little junction box is attached to that cord. To put it inside your trailer, you will have to cut the cord and run the cord thru the hole into the trailer and splice it inside. Would be much cheaper to buy a separate junction box and run a cord inside to the junction box!
If you are talking about the one below, then I did not need to cut the cord. Remove the ring terminals from the posts, loosen the cable clamp, pull the cord out of the box, then fish the cord into the camper. The ring terminals are on staggered lengths of the wires so you don't need a huge hole, but if it does not fit through the hole in your camper then in that case you might cut the terminals off and crimp on new ring terminals to attach to the posts in the box after feeding the cable into the camper. Also use a grommet where the wire goes into the camper.
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Old 10-23-2021, 04:27 PM   #20
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If you are talking about the one below, then I did not need to cut the cord. Remove the ring terminals from the posts, loosen the cable clamp, pull the cord out of the box, then fish the cord into the camper. The ring terminals are on staggered lengths of the wires so you don't need a huge hole, but if it does not fit through the hole in your camper then in that case you might cut the terminals off and crimp on new ring terminals to attach to the posts in the box after feeding the cable into the camper. Also use a grommet where the wire goes into the camper.
This^^^^^

This cord is only about trailer lights. I also need another junction box to distribute 12V. The battery comes through the wall via wimpy little wires. I need to serve it with an 8 gauge through the wall.

There appear to be a handful of direct connects in that area to lights, an old outdated stereo, and at least one 12v plug. All of which feed into that same spaghetti mess of way too small gauge wires. I'm looking at installing a 12v fuse block fed by the (new) battery 8 gauge wires through the wall, and from there feeding assorted stuff.
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