'74 Compact II restoration started

[Bill K]

All it takes is MONEY.

Bill K

If only I had a garage/shop..... :dreams:

Raya

[Dana T]

Really nice work, Fran. I'm glad to see you posting again, and making forward progress. Sometimes my progress is not in the forward direction...

The fridge looks much better than before, as does the mounting. Just make sure you seal off the vented back area from the cabin of the trailer so the combustion products (carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and water) don't wind up inside the trailer.

[francene]

Good reminder, Dana. Thanks.
A carbon monoxide detector would be a must, too, I hear.
Plus, it doesn't hurt to sleep with a window cracked open a bit, I always say.

Fran

[francene]

Looking at the wall between the stove and the bed (on the driver's side), I'm curious: Does the Compact II normally have enough extra length/width for a little closet there, or are you making a "trotter box" for your feet to go in (where the last foot or two of the bed is in a nitch and the rest of the space is used for something else)?

The Compact II does have room for a small closet there; there was a closet in that space, and I'm just putting it back there!

Nifty, and I may have to copy your red 'fridge door insert. Did you buy something new to put in there, or paint something, or...?

Raya I removed the rust that was on the original metal door insert, primed and painted it. It's white on the other side, but I thought I'd spice things up with some color. Used Rustoleum Satin spray paint, Color "Paprika", many coats.

Also, is there a special paint for the refrigerator guts, or did you use a basic, hardware-store type spray paint, or something else? I like the looks of that a lot better than the typical rusty ones. Oh, and can you tell how you prepped that area, with all the coils and what-not? How did you get in there and with what?

I used Rustoleum Primer and paint. I used mostly sandpaper, small files where I could, the wire brush attachments on a Dremel tool where it would reach, and kept vacuuming up the rust as I went along so as not to get it into the works. An old toothbrush comes in handy to brush away rust particles. I used the blue masking tape over the parts I didn't want to get paint on, and sprayed very carefully. I used a small paint brush to reach areas where I didn't want to spray. The tubes get warm in operation, but not that warm to need Hi-Temp paint. I hooked up the fridge to 110v a week after painting it, to 'burn off' odors from the paint, before the fridge got put back inside the trailer.
The painted tubes got warm, but the paint did not discolor or anything.

Hope this answers your questions.
Thanks for your comments~ (I like the 'trotter box' idea!)
Fran

[Raya]

Hi Francene,

Thanks so much for your answers to all my questions

(I like the 'trotter box' idea!)

I really like the function of a trotter box on a boat. It puts the last foot or two of a bed in a compartment (the trotter box), and then you can use the space above it for something else (typically a closet, or a kitchen counter, or a desk). Best part is that if you sleep there, then in the morning you can just shove (ahem... *stow*) your bedding in the trotter box and... instant neatness and all is secured

Here are a some photos showing a trotter box on a boat. In the first photo you can see it at the far end of the left-hand settee/berth (there are some electronics sitting on it). And in the second one you are looking from the other direction and you can just see the navigation desk on the near right, and then the other end of the trotter-boxed berth ahead of it on the right.








Here are two, on a simpler boat. The galley (kitchen) is at the far end, on top of the trotter boxes. Approximately 24" to 30" of the bed/berth/settee runs into the trotter box, so there is about 5' of settee/couch exposed:











Same boat, looking the other direction:





Speaking of disappearing bedding tricks, another way I've done it - on boats without trotter boxes - is to use the zippered casing from a large (~24" x 24") throw pillow. I took out the guts and then during the day I rolled up my bedding and put it into the pillow case, where it became a throw pillow for the day; then at night it rolled out and became my bed (and then no need to figure out a place to stash a bunch of big throw pillows at night - I never can figure out what to do with those on a bed full of "shams" and throw pillows and such --- carefully throw them on the floor? )

Raya

[francene]

Thanks for those interesting photos, Raya. Wow, such beautifully designed boats! Great ideas for efficient use of space, done in a beautiful way with teak or mahogany.

I collect teak and mahogany scraps from woodworkers, so maybe I'll put some of it to use. I see an idea for the table;my trailer didn't come with one. I don't want to put a flange on the floor if I can get away with it. I'd like to have the table do double duty as the bed supports.

Francene

[francene]

Hi all,
F I N A L L Y got the refinished poptop with newly sewn fabric, padded vinyl inside, new hardware and refinished lift mechanism and hold down latches, put back on! Whew!

Thanks to those that answered my questions on reassembly.

Got to make better sketches or take more photos next time I disassemble so many parts in the future.


Fran

[Dana T]

Oh Fran, that looks so nice! The poptop looks wonderful.

The bright blue lift mechanism is a really nice highlight.

I see you have some nice sheet metal ductwork behind the refrigerator top vent -- that should help the airflow through the coils.

I like your battery box behind the propane tank -- much nicer than having the battery inside.

Where did you put the spare tire?

Everything shines so brightly -- the door edges, the door frame, the window frames, even the belly band.

Your Compact II is now a real looker!

I hope you and your husband have lots of good times together with it.

[francene]

Thanks for your nice comments, Dana. You are very observant. I did spend a bit of time lining behind the fridge. Quite a lot of heat is given off from the coils, I wanted to protect the fiberglass. There's some insulation behind the sheet metal as well.

The spare will go on the tongue, off to the side of the propane tank. I'll try to get a photo of that side of the trailer soon.

This project is progressing and one day, I'll look around and there will be nothing more to do. Then it can be used and there'll always be refinements if I need to tinker.


Fran

[Dana T]

I don't know if the frame on your Compact II is as lightweight as it is one my Compact Jr. Mine is made of 2" x 1" C-channel, which is OK for normal loads. However, the C-channel doesn't resist twisting along its length very well. I would be concerned that the spare tire hanging off to one side of the channel, along with the bouncing, would overstress the channel and cause it to twist then fail. If you use a mount like this one, the torsional load will be quite significant: http://www.etrailer.com/p-FSTC1000301.htm

By way of explanation, my trailer originally had a boat swing-jack bolted to the port-side C-channel, and it was imparting quite a bit of twisting when the trailer was wheeled over anything but smooth pavement -- even a lawn was an issue. So I got a wheel for the tongue jack and removed the swing jack because I didn't like the torsional stresses the swing jack was putting on the frame.

You can see the swing jack in the right-most picture in this post:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...st&p=326104

The square plate is where it mounted to the frame, and is about where I would guess you would put the spare tire mount.

One way to reduce the torsional load would be to have a brace that runs from the top of the spare tire to the opposite frame member -- this would form a nice diagonal brace that would greatly reduce the tendency of the spare wheel to oscillate in time to the bumps and expansion joints in the road.

[francene]

Hi Dana,
Thanks for your thoughtful comments. Yes, my spare tire mount is similar to the one at etrailer. The front of the Compact II I have has 2" square channel, not open 'c' channel. There is 'c' channel under the fiberglass body of the trailer, however.
But the front tongue area has the heavier duty steel, thankfully. Don't know if this was standard on the CII's.

Your idea to put a brace on the spare is great; I am amazed how heavy a tire/wheel is!

How are you doing on your trailer these days?

Best,
Fran

[Pat Goodwin]

Hi all,
F I N A L L Y got the refinished poptop with newly sewn fabric, padded vinyl inside, new hardware and refinished lift mechanism and hold down latches, put back on! Whew!

Thanks to those that answered my questions on reassembly.

Got to make better sketches or take more photos next time I disassemble so many parts in the future.


Fran

You are amazing! The blue mechanism - wow. I see you figured out how the pieces go together. Your trailer looks so good. Congratulations. Pat

[Dana T]

Hi Fran, we took ours out for a spin today. My wife had never ridden in the car when I was towing the trailer -- she always met me after I had set everything up. Today we hooked up the trailer and she rode with me as we went down the freeway, then got off and wended our way through town and found a parking spot. She grabbed her bicycle out of the trailer and went for a ride, then we had lunch. Then we drove up a very windy road with no shoulders. So she got a pretty good idea of what it's like to travel with the trailer. She still likes it, so I guess we're good to go!

I forgot to ask -- did you sew the new poptop skirt yourself? Even if not, what material is it made of?

Oh yes, another question -- what did you use as wall covering to cover the insulation?

Thanks!

[francene]

Hi Dana,
Sorry it took so long to get back to your question. I've been busy off the computer.
Great to hear your wife is o.k. with trailering. Sounds like you had a good experience.

I did sew the pop top from scratch. The fabric is a strong material with a tough, backpack-type woven material on one side, coated with a water resistant vinyl(?) on the other. Believe it or not, I found it at Walmart. They get 'ends' of material there, and you never see the same stuff again. Fortunately I bought enough; just enough, as it turned out. I had to insert some fabric to make it fit, and ended up using almost all of it, save for a few tiny patches of cloth! Whew! Anyway, it was quite inexpensive, so I figured if I goofed it up, I could start again with fabric from Joanns or maybe look on ebay. That's where I found the vinyl foamed-backed material for the ceiling and walls.

I have not covered the insulation yet. Chuck Hagen, who redid a CII near me, left his uncovered under the sink and seating area, and backed his closets with wood panel. I think I'll cover the insul. under the seats with leftover wall covering . The closets will be backed with wood, over the insul. If I have vinyl fabric left, I'll use it to cover under the sink.

Best,
Fran

Hi Fran, we took ours out for a spin today. My wife had never ridden in the car when I was towing the trailer -- she always met me after I had set everything up. Today we hooked up the trailer and she rode with me as we went down the freeway, then got off and wended our way through town and found a parking spot. She grabbed her bicycle out of the trailer and went for a ride, then we had lunch. Then we drove up a very windy road with no shoulders. So she got a pretty good idea of what it's like to travel with the trailer. She still likes it, so I guess we're good to go!

I forgot to ask -- did you sew the new poptop skirt yourself? Even if not, what material is it made of?

Oh yes, another question -- what did you use as wall covering to cover the insulation?

Thanks!

[Robert Johans]

Hey Fran,

Hope it's not too late to jump into your thread, but I had a comment about your fridge.

There's an interesting thread about 3-way reefers going on right now, and I wanted to share a thought...

If your fridge hasn't yet been enclosed with cabinetry, you may want to consider adding a "shroud" of appropriate insulation around the four sides (left, right, top and bottom) of the unit. It is my understanding that these absorbtion-type coolers are easily affected by ambient temps as well as infrared light.

RJ

[francene]

Thanks for your suggestions, Robert.
My fridge has not been enclosed yet; I actually was thinking of insulating the walls for the reason you mentioned. I've already put insulation above the fridge. The Dometic installation instructions say to construct a box above the fridge to prevent rising exhaust fumes (in propane mode) from accumulating there.

Where would infrared light come from, though?

Best,
Fran

[Raya]

I think the infrared would be heat, wouldn't it? Essentially heat "waves" from the sun? I mean, technically I think it may be light, but maybe I just don't think of it that way because it's not in the visible spectrum (unless I am all washed up here).

[francene]

Raya,
I just read the thread about 3-way fridges, with Harry Young as guest speaker. He is a great source, for sure.
Yes, I agree; 'infrared' is probably the sun beating on the exterior vents, radiating heat and some light into the back of the fridge compartment.

Fran

[Robert Johans]

Thanks for your suggestions, Robert.
My fridge has not been enclosed yet; I actually was thinking of insulating the walls for the reason you mentioned. I've already put insulation above the fridge. The Dometic installation instructions say to construct a box above the fridge to prevent rising exhaust fumes (in propane mode) from accumulating there.

Where would infrared light come from, though?

Best,
Fran

Hi Fran,
I'm not an academic, engineer or scientist, but it's my understanding that infrared can radiate from any heat source. So I'm thinking even a hot highway could be a source of radiation. Theoretically, ambient heat would affect your fridge via conduction, whereas another heat source could affect your fridge via radiation. In practical terms maybe IR isn't such a big deal, but that's what I've been told...

Since I was starting from scratch, I went through the trouble of building an insulated box (with reflective insulation) that both surrounds my fridge on four sides (left, right, top and bottom), as well as prevents ANY heat or exhaust generated by the fridge from going anywhere but OUT.

RJ

[francene]

Progress is creeping along. Finished the plumbing except for attaching the water pump. Framing in the seating/sleeping area is finished; next step is wiring. Still have to frame up the former bathroom, though.

Here are some photos of the project; it's getting cold in the garage these days, plus I'm now sharing the space with a car during the winter.

Fran