Lanny Webbs information from a previous post. Quite a job!!!
==Lanny, please excuse me for butting in, your information is so-o-o good it's just gotta be posted here. PineConeDon===
Here are some of the pictures of my carpet installation. I used the contact adhesive I got at Lowes. It was the paste type. I rolled it on both surfaces, let dry for about 20 minutes then had a good hour to put it up.
The ceiling went up without a hitch. Once the adhesive is dry it isnít sticky at all but bonds instantly when it hits the other surface so be careful. My plan went as follows:
I cut a piece 58 inches wide, the carpet came in a 12í roll. Starting at the back window, this took it well behind the top of the shower and inside the closet ceiling. My camper is the 16Ē. I marked a center line down the back of the carpet and down the ceiling inside the camper shell. I built a support from a 1x4 and 2x2s. See picture.
I made the legs slightly longer than would fit between the floor and ceiling. I set them at an angle on top of scraps of wood on which they could slide without damaging the new floor carpet. Notice I also cover all the new carpet in case I dropped glue.
I draped the carpet over the wood support frame and aligned the centerlines. Then I hit the base of the support wedging the carpet to the ceiling firmly. Once in place and straight, I rolled on adhesive on both the carpet and the ceiling on one side, let dry then crawled under the carpet and worked it across and down the side.
I then repeated the opposite side. Notice the additional support that was just a 2x23 with a 2x2 top I could use to press the carpet into the contoured area. This worked wonderfully. Once both sides were done, I formed the back curve toward the window working from center out. The corners were a little messy but not bad and they will be inside the cabinet over the table in back. You might note I taped all the new awg 10 wiring along the walls so I would have it for the new fan and inside the cabinets.
The sides were a lot trickier. I had a hard time aligning the new edge against the already mounted edge. If I had to do it over again, Iíd trim the carpet backing back at an angle giving me more carpet nap. Fortunately most of these edges will be covered up and I learned a few tricks about filling the joins with nap that should make them almost disappear. This is as far as I got but should be able to finish up some time this week. Hope this helps and GOOD LUCK! Lanny
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e6f9c605220bCasita carpet 40.jpg/>
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e6f9c84dbcd0Casita carpet 30.jpg/>
This shows the original support made from the 1x4 and two 2x2s plus a secondary support I used to force the carpet into the curved ceiling. The second support was made from a 2x2 for the upright and a 2x2 for the top forming a "T." I started pressing the carpet to the fiberglass shell working from the center out toward the side. When I got to the curved edge, I placed the top of the "T" of the second brace in the in the indention and hit the base of the support with a hammer forcing it upward pressing the carpet firmly into the curve. I then continued pressing the carpet adhering it to the ceiling until it was fully attached. The next step was to go to the other side of the center support, roll on the adhesive and repeat the process.
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e6f9ca520a7bCasita carpet 20.jpg/>
This is facing toward the front of the trailer. Notice the center line on the carpet. The gray square over my head it a tarp covering the vent opening.
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e6f9cca1f2dbCasita Carpet 10.jpg/>
Pete, After several weeks of back and forth between Casita
, Shaw Carpet Mills in Dalton GA, and Dalton Carpet outlet here in Athens, I was getting nowhere. Dalton Carpet didn't want to fool with a special order as small as mine. Shaw wouldn't sell me direct. I decided to put in a pad first then put in carpet on top of it. Twice the work but it looked as my only option. Low and behold, I went to my local Lowes and they stock the exact carpet with the Konga backing that Casita
uses. Oddly, the backing comes in various thickness' depending on the color. I wanted gray. The only carpet color they had with the 1/2" backing was.... GRAY! It sells for $10.39 per running foot. The roll comes 12' wide. If you're interested I discovered several things that made the job much easier. I can post them if you want.
Gordon, usually I'd have used the resperator but if you notice in this shot, all the windows
as well as the vent in the ceiling and the door were removed. I had 4 window fans mounted two over two blowing through the window in the back. You can barely see them if you look. It kept a good air flor throughout the trailed while I put up the adhesive but I hear you. lanny
The Roberts 7015 is carpet seam adhesive. I watched a guy install carpet at work and he use it. You place a bead of the adhesive in the join, then cut pile from the scraps and push it in the crack. When its dry you vacuum up the loose carpet and repeat the process if necessary. This is a photo with the rear seams indicated. I did a pretty lousy job joining the side pieces to the top. If I could do it over I would have the pieces overlap the top by a 1/2 inch or so. The carpet compresses easily and can be pushed in to meet the ceiling piece already installed. I tried to have the two butt up against each other and it left a noticeable seam. Fortunate, most of this will be covered up with cabinets etc. but I was disappointed. Once I discovered you can easily press the carpet back in place and have it squeeze together, my seams were almost invisible. Other than mine, I have never seen a Casita in the flesh, so to speak, so I don't k now how it looks on most of them.
Liz, My 86 has the center of the ceiling higher than the rest which results in a curved edge you will have to deal with. If you look at the "seams" picture above you will see them about 3 feet apart in the center. If you look at the last shot, you will see my seam edge on the side. If you overlap the carpet here about half an inch, once the carpet is attached you should be able to compress the extra carpet and push it down so the edges of both pieces will meet. I didn't do this and mine seams show much more than I'd like. When I tried this in other places it worked like a champ.
Good luck Lanny