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Old 06-23-2003, 08:05 AM   #61
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Orginally posted by Nancy D

Is fiberglass resin like bondo that the more hardener you put in the faster it dries? I can remember years ago when working with bondo if you were a newbie at it, we were, you could use less hardener and it would give a longer working time.
Nancy
The problem with adding more hardener with fiberglass is that it cures too fast and becomes brittle, and consequently isn't as strong. Fiberglass is an exothermic reaction so if you mix too much, it gets too hot which also affects the integrity. In extreme cases, I've seen it get so hot as to melt the tupperware container it was mixed in. I find that the most I can mix and work with before it starts to gel up, is about 1/4 cup.

If working with cloth, cut your cloth to shape first, then mix your resin. Use disposable paint brushes and a sheet of cardboard. Brush some resin on the cardboard, then place the cloth on the resin, and then impregnate the cloth with resin using the paintbrush until the cloth becomes somewhat translucent. then with the brush, pickup the cloth and position it on the spot you're repairing (unless the piece is big enough to want to slide off the brush, then you'll have to use your fingers). Using the end of the bristles on the brush, dab the cloth until it blends in and all the airholes are gone. You can brush some more epoxy on the surface to smoothen it off once you're finished layering your cloth. Having a thicker layer of resin on the top layer of cloth, also gives you some sanding room so you don't take off too much of the cloth.

After each round of cloth, I soak the brush in acetone while I'm preparing the next cut of cloth and mixing resin. When I'm ready to start, I shake the brush dry and get started.

I did about 12 layers of cloth to fix the drivers side rear corner of my Boler before I painted the outside. You can see the damaged piece in these pictures: http://www.beer.org/boler/

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional body man or fiberglasser. I was taught how to do repairs by a boat builder in Sidney BC and the skill has come in immensely handy over the years.

Hope that's helpful.



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Old 06-23-2003, 08:19 AM   #62
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Great, thanks Herb. The closest thing I've done is a resin lamp back in the 70's it was FUN. but it had a mold. this sounds kind of like papier-mâché.



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Old 06-24-2003, 11:03 PM   #63
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Jana,

You can put your mixed can of resin in a container or ice & water to slow down the reaction time, while still giving it a proper ratio of catalyst to resin, as per Herb's very good instructions. It'll heat up to outside tempreture and more very fast after you apply it.



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Old 07-04-2003, 04:38 PM   #64
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My project continues.


<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f0600b519c1d13boler2.jpg/>
What previous owner had done to top.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f0600d2b9f8f13boler1.jpg/>
Piece ready to splice in.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f0601770083313boler2.jpg/>
New top to go on with stove and sink to be installed.



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Old 07-04-2003, 08:26 PM   #65
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Wow, Ches, you're really putting some work into that. That door fix is great. That new counter top looks nice, too.



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Old 07-04-2003, 10:53 PM   #66
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Lookin' good!

Hi Ches, your new counter is looking great.

Do you have the side window removed too, kinda looks like it in the picture?

Hey, I have another dumb question for you. I was noticing on one of the pictures of your door that the window is a bit pock marked in the bottom right, mine's exactly the same way. What do you suppose it's from?



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Old 07-04-2003, 11:27 PM   #67
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Hi Lainey
That pock marks is from having door window opened then opening door and it hits the wall of your RV.I have a new one to replace it.

Yes side windows are removed and to be installed after we paint.



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Old 07-05-2003, 08:35 PM   #68
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Counter repaired.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f078a70d6d90counter3.jpg/>
Before

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f078a8b61a95counter1.jpg/>

Repaired


<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f078abbde2c4counter2.jpg/>

First coat of paint(TEST)



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Old 07-05-2003, 08:38 PM   #69
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Hi All
The first lesson i learned was not to be afraid of fiberglass repairs.If you make a mistake just sand out and start again.:wave



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Old 07-06-2003, 07:28 AM   #70
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Paint

Ches, that looks good. What type of paint did you use?



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Old 07-06-2003, 09:23 AM   #71
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Suz

Ches, that looks good. What type of paint did you use?
Hi Suz
That was just a little white spray paint in a can I had left over from:wave another project.I just wanted to see what it would look like after repair.I also wanted to show folks that anyone can do it.That was my first time trying something like that.



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Old 07-11-2003, 08:34 AM   #72
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good stuff

Hi Ches- been a while since i checked your thread.........looks like a super job all around. I don't have the skill or patience to tackle that kind of restoration. Look forward to seeing more as it happens-

phil



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Old 07-11-2003, 02:08 PM   #73
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Hi Phil
Thanks.:wave



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Old 07-13-2003, 01:29 PM   #74
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Hi All
Project continues---Counter top with sink,stove installed loosely and my 2 way fridge. Icebox/110volt.While travelling will use converter and power fridge or if boon docking,ice/generator.The blue stuff at bottom of fridge is styrofoam insolation.I put in a block of ice and it lasted 56 hrs in the sun in my yard.I have a drain in fridge to outside.I drilled a hole and set up a hose.Works great.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f11b29972c07top1.jpg/>

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f11b2a81117ftop2.jpg/>

All will be put in permently after interior is painted.



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Old 07-13-2003, 01:38 PM   #75
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Hi Ches,
Everything looks great. I admire your stove top. Is that an old one that you painted? If so what kind of paint? Or, is it a new one? If so where did you get it? We've scrubbed and scrubbed our "stainless steel" stove top, but it is still rusty and pitted. We asked about getting it sand blasted and were quoted a $600.00 set up fee. We got a laugh out of that. Thanks.



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Old 07-13-2003, 01:51 PM   #76
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Hi Maggie
Paint brand name is tremclat--Type of paint--Hi Heat.I got this idea from one of our members who had redone his stove.

This stove top had been bent and rusted .I straightened out and sanded then painted.

$600.00 for sand blasting is outrages.You could buy a few good stoves for that price.
:wave



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Old 07-13-2003, 02:01 PM   #77
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Hi All
Photo of bottom of ice location.It has drain and stryafoam is shaped so all water runs to drain.Insolation is stuck in place using clear silicone.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f11ba6707546drain1.jpg/>



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Old 07-13-2003, 02:12 PM   #78
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Sandblasting stove top

Maggie,

Look around more for sandblasting. We had an intake manifold which would b e about the same size as the stove top done at a small industrial sandblasting company for $20.00.



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Old 07-13-2003, 08:53 PM   #79
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Hi All
Test fit of new table.Lawn chairs will be replace with bench seating.I just used them to test.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3f121b2161a93table1.jpg/>



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Old 07-13-2003, 10:12 PM   #80
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Orginally posted by Maggie O.
We asked about getting it sand blasted and were quoted a $600.00 set up fee. We got a laugh out of that. Thanks.
Sandblasting should cost no more than about $20-$30. Here in Calgary we have a 'do it yourself' sandblasting place. It's about $1/min. I did the entire frame of my truck for $70CDN. I routinely go there to do bumpers and such, and $70 is the most I've ever spent.

Maybe they were quoting you on sandblasting and ceramic powder coating even though that's still about 3 times the price that should be.



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