About Donna's awesome curtain rod attachment - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-05-2015, 03:16 PM   #1
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About Donna's awesome curtain rod attachment

I think Donna's idea is GREAT, and just wonder about a few details: What kind of screws does she use (sheet metal)? Does she drill new holes or remove some screws and use those?

Inquiring minds would like to know!

(I apologize for not posting a link to that discussion, but can't remember where I saw it!)

LP
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Old 08-05-2015, 05:49 PM   #2
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Am I the Donna you're talking about? I've posted a couple of different current rod attachments over the years. None of them were mine. IF I remember right, at least one didn't use screws but was riveted through the clamp ring of the window.

Was it this one? http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post192793

If I'm the wrong Donna, I apologize.
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:42 PM   #3
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Yes, you're the Donna to whom I was referring! I remember the photo and thought that was your rig. Now that you've provided the link, I see that "rivets" are mentioned instead of screws.

Can you or anyone tell me how rivets are used to do this?

Thanks
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:53 PM   #4
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Well, just looking at the picture:

Make the bar (it appears the same width as the window frame), and you'll need a usable length for your application

Drill holes for the top bracket and holes that will hold the bar to the frame, but do not interfere with other screws or rivets in the frame.

Paint the bar black and add the top bracket (Looks like this was riveted from the back because the bracket may be in the way of properly using a gun).

Remove the clamp ring, drill holes that measure up with the bar. Rivet the bar to the clamp ring

Reinstall the clamp ring.

That's what I'd do, is this what you're asking?
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:15 PM   #5
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about the clamp ring and

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Well, just looking at the picture:

Make the bar (it appears the same width as the window frame), and you'll need a usable length for your application

Drill holes for the top bracket and holes that will hold the bar to the frame, but do not interfere with other screws or rivets in the frame.

Paint the bar black and add the top bracket (Looks like this was riveted from the back because the bracket may be in the way of properly using a gun).

Remove the clamp ring, drill holes that measure up with the bar. Rivet the bar to the clamp ring

Reinstall the clamp ring.

That's what I'd do, is this what you're asking?
Yes, it's the last part that has me befuddled. The first bits I could easily figure out. But "clamp ring" is new to me. Is that the inside metal part of the window (mine has screws all around it)? And how do we remove it, unscrew all of the screws?

Then, I have lots of tools and gadgets, but have never done rivets. But I bet there's a youtube for that.

Just in looking at the picture, I imagined the metal piece was simply screwed into the window frame using sheet metal screws. I'm glad I asked before getting out my drill.

Thanks for your help,
LP
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:47 AM   #6
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LP, here's another curtain idea... I saw where someone had done this but haven't found the post yet.

I believe your L'il Bigfoot has an overhead cabinet across the back, right?

Have you thought about suspending a continuous rod from the closet by the door all the way around the back to the kitchen cabinets? It would hang from the overhead cabinet across the back. Think wraparound curtains, a la Airstream. I'm not exactly sure how the kitchen side might work, since I believe the L'il Bigfoot has an extra-long streetside window (which I love!!).

In this solution, all the hardware attaches to internal cabinetry, nothing to the windows or shell. It would give better light control, and the curtains should completely clear the windows for uninterrupted views when fully opened.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:14 AM   #7
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Donna D, or anyone else, if you were buying a NEW Scamp 16 would you maybe ask them to NOT install any curtain rods?

I'm wondering if it might even be better to just use Velcro on window coverings and forgo the holes in the shell.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:15 AM   #8
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Yes, yes, yes!!!!

On my 13'er that would eliminate 24 rivets, and, as seen, there are other ways. I'm not sure Velcro would be my first choice, though. If removed and reattached frequently, it will raise the nap on the rat fur. Maybe on the door, since we rarely open that curtain. On the big front window, we don't use any curtain at all- it gets tangled up with the sleeper on the top bunk. Instead, we just hang up the gravel guard at night.

I would also have them leave off the sewer hose holder on the front. That's just plain ugly, and, again, there are alternatives.

And no, I am not opposed to rivets in principle- just unnecessary rivets.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:12 AM   #9
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Thanks Jon.. thats helpful.. This is hard to decide without a Scamp to look inside of right now and I only have a week or two to decide.

The front bunk will not be used in mine so the curtain in the way is not an issue. I would hate to have to go outside and put the gravel guard on everytime I wanted to change clothes however.

I was thinking of maybe attaching window coverings on the bottom with Velcro and letting them hang down under the window when not in use. (Maybe unattractive but I prefer practical over appearance). Then somehow hook the top of the window covering to something (or use Velcro again) when privacy was needed.

I assume the rivets go through the insulation and rat-fur so mounting curtain rods "the Scamp way" (if I later decided to do so) would not be hard for me to do.. agree?

Just had another thought (edit).. I wonder if curtain rod holders could be attached with Velcro.. they would never have to be removed. Might need a mounting plate Velcro-ed to the rat-fun with the curtain rod supports mounted on the mounting plate.. Hmmm
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
...
Have you thought about suspending a continuous rod from the closet by the door all the way around the back to the kitchen cabinets? It would hang from the overhead cabinet across the back. Think wraparound curtains, a la Airstream......
Like THIS maybe ??
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:53 AM   #11
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That wasn't the one I saw, but IKEA would be a first stop if I were contemplating a wrap-around curtain. The difficulty is matching the radius of the shell. The design I saw involved some custom bending, but I don't recall what material was being used.

And yes, a Scamp-style retrofit would be easy enough, but I doubt a Velcroed mounting plate would be strong enough for curtain rods. You could always slit the rat fur, cut out a square of insulation, epoxy in a block of wood, and glue the rat fur back down on top. The curtain rod would cover most of the damage done.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:27 AM   #12
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Here're a couple of links on wrap-around curtains:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ted-57824.html

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...t-65616-4.html (post #49 and following)
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
LP, here's another curtain idea... I saw where someone had done this but haven't found the post yet.

I believe your L'il Bigfoot has an overhead cabinet across the back, right?

Have you thought about suspending a continuous rod from the closet by the door all the way around the back to the kitchen cabinets?
YUP, definitely considering this option! I have the wide side window by kitchen. What I'd like to do is install a narrow wooden shelf, like a cornice, over both side windows, these would attach to the kitchen and back cabinet. On the other side, the closet has been removed (rats), but I'm in the process of designing a replacement cabinet.

[Speaking of IKEA hacks (in the other thread we were referred to), I'd love to use some IKEA units there to have drawers in place of a closet, but am worried those materials would be too heavy... I need the pounds for my stuff, not the storage for my stuff.]

Anyway, the shelf on the curbside would have to attach to the back cabinet and my new closet, which means new closet first, which means possible trip to IKEA, which is 3 hrs away, so would like to tow trailer and spend night, but don't have hitch yet... you see how everything leads to everything else? (for the want of a nail the shoe was lost...)



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Old 08-06-2015, 11:37 AM   #14
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window clamp?

Still mystified by the window clamp. Is that the metal part on the inside which is screwed into the window?

In the method Donna describes, the clamp is removed and the metal bar is riveted in from the back side of the clamp.

I also wonder about leaving the clamp in place, removing several of the screws, and screwing into the metal bar from the front of the clamp.

Any thoughts?

LP
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:20 PM   #15
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A different strategy: in our Boler, I installed a flexible u-shaped track to the walls that held slides for curtains. Although in that case, I attached the track to screen molding attached to existing rivet holes, it might work to attach the track semi-permanently using Velcro to rat fur. Unfortunately, that was a while ago, and I can't find the link to the product.

In our Parkliner, we use blinds, all of which are attached to upper cabinets.
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:42 PM   #16
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I like the blinds idea too. I had them in my Kencraft, years ago. In some of the windows we put curtains over the blinds too. Really loved that trailer.
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellpea in CA View Post
Still mystified by the window clamp. Is that the metal part on the inside which is screwed into the window?

In the method Donna describes, the clamp is removed and the metal bar is riveted in from the back side of the clamp.

I also wonder about leaving the clamp in place, removing several of the screws, and screwing into the metal bar from the front of the clamp.

Any thoughts?

LP
Yes, it is the metal part with all the screws. It's function is to "suck" the window against the outside of the body by "clamping" the window between the inside and outside of the hull.

If you look at the second picture in the link I post on the first page, you'll see a slick curtain rod that's suspended from the overhead cabinets. Robert Johan's does terrific work. If my rememberer is working right, he got the parts at IKEA.

If you come up with an idea you like, don't let Scamp put those blasted curtain rod holders in... 24 less rivets!

AND, no stinky slinky on the front either... like that's a thing of beauty... four less rivets there too!
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:16 PM   #18
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Hi Ellpea,
I'd like to see photos of the interior of your rig so I can visualize it and understand better how you might install curtain rods/tracks. If, as you say, you want a continuous rod/track the top of the window frames should be aligned horizontally and you'll need places to anchor the rod/track. Anchoring spots could be wood, metal, fiberglass, etc. I, too, am thinking how to do this in my rig, a 13' Scamp.

The top of my windows do not align perfectly, but they are close. I have a fiberglass closet on the left side, fiberglass cabinet above the window in the back and fiberglass side on the right side above the sink. Before I drill any holes I want to be sure the rod/track system would work and would be strong.

I agree with those who said Velcro will not hold well enough. Velcro works well in holding very light things.

In the close-up photo you can see that I was experimenting with a bottom rod (an old tent pole) attached with a cubicle clip. It did hold well but there is not enough room under the side windows to do this unless I re-sew ALL my curtains, ugh. I may use a curtain wire (or picture wire) instead on the sides.
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