AC for Trillium 1980 1300 Deluxe

[jbclabaugh]

Considering a purchase....No AC, and we do plan to travel out west, so that is a needed upgrade. I am reading the roofs do not support a rooftop one without endangering roof sag. Where, and how is a good place to do a small portable install? The design we are considering is rear dinette/bed, front dinette. Has a 20 amp plug. Has Jalousie windows in rear sections. I am assuming this should be professionally installed, even though my hubby is very handy. Thanks...just trying to see if this is a wise purchase.

[thrifty bill]

Some modify the escape window (typically in the rear) to handle a window AC. Unless the power center has been replaced and upgraded, a 1300 has 15A 120V capacity at best.

Personally, I'd keep looking if AC is a must. These old Trilliums, which I love, are not cheap. Recent pricing is similar to what a newer Scamp 13 with roof air sells for. You lose the great windows, but you gain roof AC.

I'd make a list of your requirements, and shop accordingly. Its kind of like buying a car, or a home. I always make a list of requirements and preferences. A preference is something I can live without, but a requirement is a MUST. It's OK to put AC on your MUST list!

Rare, but there were some Trilliums made with roof air. They have a special transition piece on the roof. Finding one is nearly impossible and modifying a unit for roof air would be quite costly.

And realize to have AC, you will need shore power. A generator "can" work, but many campgrounds have strict limits on generator use.

[Governor Bud]

Since we are almost always connected to shore power,
In winter I use
an inexpensive home depot radiator heater keeping camper at 60. In summer this is a good way to go without having permanent installs.


https://articairchillbox.com/50off/?...YaAifUEALw_wcB


I'd go with a quality trailer and not base decision on retrofitting the roof or the rear window and letting the tail wag the dog. Nothing of quality is cheap and the Trillium's hold their value if well maintained and stored. Off topic: one will see front drive VW campervans going for more than they were new.

[jbclabaugh]

Good point about not retrofitting. I might be able to make the cooler you suggested work for us. We will likely avoid hot locations in the summer on our retirement travels...Except of course the New England area..it can be hot at times as you know!

My husband is very excited about the prospect of a Trillium.

[Lynn W in FL]

I'm facing the same dilemma with my 1975 Trillium 1300, I had thought I would just add one to the roof. But as mentioned here on the forum they weren't built for that and the roof would probably sag. Just working on it with only a box fan has been a challenge here in Florida. One of those tiny air coolers wouldn't be hard to fit somewhere, but the adding water part doesn't make any sense to me at all since high humidity is always an issue. I know it will be nice when I finally get it road-worthy, but it is a lot more work than this 74 yr old lady planned on. So consider carefully.

[Steve Hague]

This is a photo of the roof transition piece that Thrifty Bill mentioned. This photo comes from a 1978 Trillium sales brochure.

[thrifty bill]

Just a note on the "Chill Box" above. Its essentially a swamp cooler. These add significant humidity to the air, which is not a problem in the SW deserts. But they don't work well at all in the high humidity SE. Google swamp cooler for more information.

I do not consider a Scamp to be an inferior trailer. The vintage Trilliums are very nice, but do not accommodate A/C well. Newer Scamps, Casitas, and even Trilliums do handle roof air. But the vintage Trilliums do not. Some stick a room AC out the escape hatch, not the most elegant solution but it does work.

This one was very well done.

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ium-68049.html

[Steve Hague]

We have just completed the installation of a MaxxAir fan on our 1978 Trillium 4500. At the start of the project there was a 3/4 inch sag in the center of the roof just in front of the existing roof vent. After removing the old vent we fashioned a plywood square to fit where the old vent trim piece had been in the ceiling and used a jack post to push the roof up so that the center was 1/2 inch higher than the sides. I then masked off a 28 x 32 inch area around the vent opening and ground the gel coat off with an angle grinder. That gave me a sense of commitment. We then laid on seven layers of fiberglass mat, two chopped strand and five 1708 biaxial mat. This added more than 1/4 inch thickness, more than doubling the roof thickness in this area. After sanding away the rough edges, I used Bondo Gold to even the surface and painted with Wet Edge top side paint.
The roof did not move after I removed the jack post and is now extremely stiff. Probably overkill, but I just wanted to do this once.

[jbclabaugh]

We have purchased our 1980 1300 Deluxe fron Gov Bud. He had recently installed a heafty DC roof fan. It moves the air. We will give a try as is in New England first. We are coming up with our name for our delightful gem! We plan for our big trips in a couple years after hubby retires. Very excited!

[jbclabaugh]

Thinking of Lynn W. in humid Florida. I ran across this, although at the moment it is too pricey for my budget...

It runs off a lithium battery which is the price of 2 to 3 air conditioners.

https://www.zerobreeze.com/products/...29542713720934

A true small ac. Some sort of temporary vent could be made in the window above stove?

[jbclabaugh]

SO I ran across this in my searching.

Not in our budget right now, but if I lived in high heat and humidity, it might make the must have list.

https://www.zerobreeze.com/products/...0aAvdhEALw_wcB