ac unit - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-22-2021, 12:58 PM   #1
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Name: Lynn W
Trailer: Trillium
Florida
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ac unit

I finally bought a 5000 btu wall unit that is currently sitting in the spot for the fridge(because there's a vent)until I figure out where it can go permanently. The back is flush with the wall of the camper but the water is pooling under it. I tried duct taping a hose to the drain but it fell off, besides the instructions state that is not as efficient because the condensation cools the unit. So, how far can it safely stick out when driving down the road? I think 4-5 inches would be enough to expose the drain hole.
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Old 07-22-2021, 01:48 PM   #2
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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Trilliums have what I call pontoons on the outside of either side of the frame. You should drill a ľ" drain hole in the lowest spot on the pontoons, just ahead and behind the wheel wells, a total of four holes. That way, you can drain your AC unit into the pontoon that is below where the fridge was.

The drain holes will also prevent any leaks that may develop in your trailer from rotting out the plywood in the floor. When I did this to my six Trilliums, some had so much water in them that they drained a couple of gallons.
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Old 07-22-2021, 05:03 PM   #3
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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Sadly, the pontoons are not open in the fridge slot. There is a piece of plywood that goes to the wall and under that is another piece of plywood. That lower layer connects to the plywood under the entire floor. Underneath that piece of plywood is the pontoon.

IMO that’s a bad spot to set an AC on a Trillium.
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Old 07-22-2021, 05:25 PM   #4
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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yeah, not an ideal location. Though Lynn could still drill straight through both layers of plywood, and the bottom of the pontoon and run tubing out the hole.

Still, not ideal.
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Old 07-22-2021, 06:21 PM   #5
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Name: Lynn W
Trailer: Trillium
Florida
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temporary location

As I stated, it's a temporary spot for the ac. Even with a box fan, the inside temperature was 95+ and I haven't gotten much done because of that. I live in Florida. AC is a must this time of year. I had planned on a roof/ceiling unit, but here on the forum the consensus is that the vintage fiberglass weren't made for that and the roof would sag. Putting the ac in the spot where I remove the furnace MIGHT work if there's enough room for the back to slant down. I bought the most compact unit I could find. I'm just trying to work with what I've got.
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Old 07-23-2021, 06:28 AM   #6
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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What are you doing about the outdoor air circulating through the hot (outside) part of the AC?
here needs to be a good exchange of air through that part. A metal or plastic catch pan underneath the AC would handle the condensate problem, especially if it were tilted towards one corner with the drain hose connected there.
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Old 07-23-2021, 06:54 AM   #7
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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Portable AC, with a vent out the kitchen window (if you have one) can work. If I was going to add AC to my Trillium, that would be my choice. Instead, I seek out cooler camping options which here in the mountains of NC is more practical. Florida, not so much. Most of the vintage FG trailers will not support roof air.

There is a very strong market for vintage Trilliums right now, might consider looking for another different brand with AC. The Casita 13s had a simple AC set up, in the front corner that worked well.
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