Add permeant stabilizer Jacks

[markjeff]

Hey all

I'm going to pick up my 1983 17 ft Bigfoot on the weekend. I'd like to add stabilizer jacks to the frame. Has anyone done this? Is it possible with out weld.. etc

Thanks

[Darwin Maring]

If I were doing it, I would go to a junk yard and purchase some vehicle sizer jacks and weld them on.

[Bobbie Mayer]

I had some welded on. Absolutely wonderful, made life SO much easier.

[floyd]

BAL makes a great stabilizer assembly which would work wonderfully.
It was profound overkill but we installed BAL stabilizers on our Scamp and we love them. In our application, they even act as stable jacks for tire and brake work.
They also provide their own built-in crossmember.

[Jack L]

I'm not sure what brand I have, but they are similar to the ones in the photos that Floyd posted. They are great, but they do require some simple welding.

[40bpm]

I plan to install the BAL stabilizers like Floyd's on my Bigfoot 17'. It looks like you can drill and bolt them on with supplied self tapping bolts which is what I plan to do. Let us know if you get it done.

[markjeff]

Originally Posted by 40bpm

I plan to install the BAL stabilizers like Floyd's on my Bigfoot 17'. It looks like you can drill and bolt them on with supplied self tapping bolts which is what I plan to do. Let us know if you get it done.

Thanks Bpm! I'm way more keen to screw something in than weld.

[40bpm]

You're welcome. This is high on my list of things to buy and install, so I'm very interested in your experience should you get it installed.

You've probably already seen this, but here's a link to the BAL web page:
BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry

And here's a link to their installation instructions:
http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ma...#39;').pdf

Let us know if you get it done.

[skyaki]

I had a set of stabilizer jacks on my a previous trailer. Operated them with a cordless drill. Simple, effortless and effective...

[Michael Pupeza]

I've had the BAL jacks, as shown in one of the previous pictures, for about 7 years and they are a treat. While not advertised as such, I'm sure they would hold up the trailer off the wheels if needed. Welding is preferred as those holes in the frame are not a good idea, as the frame does flex a bit. My door sometimes sticks a bit more if the jacks are not equally tightened. Since they do hang down a bit, follow the instructions using the string from bottom of tires to front and back lowest spots and ensure the jacks are clear. I use the hand cranks but an electric drill with a socket would make life pretty easy.
Mike .....>

[Talia]

Originally Posted by markjeff

Thanks Bpm! I'm way more keen to screw something in than weld.

Phrasing!

[Mike_L]

I have used both the stab jacks, as shown, and scissor jacks which are more robust
and thus stable. Stab jacks are okay on a lighter unit say up to 2000lb. Above that the scissor jacks are better. Also, the scissor jacks can be used to lift the unit to change a tire if necessary. Placement is critical for stability. Too close towards the center and they don't provide maximum stability. Placement at the ends of the unit may cause the unit to sag slightly making the door etc. stick and easier to strike when boon-docking. Welding works well if properly done but is more permanent and harder to replace damaged jacks if this happens. Sheet metal screws can be used on a box chassis. Use nuts and bolts if you can get access. Don't forget to lube the mechanisms each season.

[Harvey]

I added BAL stabilizers to the rear of our Casita 17SD last year. See this thread http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ita-70944.html . Our Casita already had the Atwood stabilizers in place but at my age I don't like using 'em. I had the BAL jacks on hand & enough scrap metal to fabricate the mounts so that's what I used. Works great. I'm still considering adding them to the front...

[Yvon Chayer]

I added BAL stabilizers to the rear and front of my Bigfoot
I have welded small 1/4 steel plate to frame and bolted the bal leveler to the plate
Leveler was already removable for mantenance or replacement


Fast operation and not disturbe the ground clearance when at the up position

[Timber Wolf]

I wonder if installing a set of these BAL type stabilizers slightly more forward wouldn't work as well as all the way back under the bumper like the current "Atwood" type are on my Scamp. The Atwoods are back there for accessibility to deploy and stow, no such requirement with the BAL, which operate from the side. Farther forward (just a foot or so) would aid with clearance. I would hate to buy nice stabilizers, fabricate mounts and weld/bolt them on, just to tear them off or bend them someday.

Had another thought, just brainstorming here, mount a thin gauge 4" square tube just above and behind the factory bumper. Use it for storing the slinky or canopy poles and mount the BALs under it so that they are more or less flush with the bottom of the factory bumper/frame when stowed. This way you achieve maximum ground clearance and stability at the same time.

[Mr Lynn]

Originally Posted by Mike_L

I have used both the stab jacks, as shown, and scissor jacks which are more robust
and thus stable. Stab jacks are okay on a lighter unit say up to 2000lb. Above that the scissor jacks are better. Also, the scissor jacks can be used to lift the unit to change a tire if necessary. . .

Some stickbuilt trailers come with scissor jacks on two or four corners, which I think is a terrific idea. Sure wouldn't mind having a couple on the rear (at least) of our Casita. Maybe in the Spring. . .

/Mr Lynn

[Russ Foster]

Just this last year I removed the jacks and cross members....literally took every bolt, nut and washer off......had the feet and cross members powder coated black, then reassembled with stainless etc.....

Looks fantastic.......stabilizers are mounted on front and back.....what a difference in stability.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

I wonder if installing a set of these BAL type stabilizers slightly more forward wouldn't work as well as all the way back under the bumper like the current "Atwood" type are on my Scamp. The Atwoods are back there for accessibility to deploy and stow, no such requirement with the BAL, which operate from the side. Farther forward (just a foot or so) would aid with clearance. I would hate to buy nice stabilizers, fabricate mounts and weld/bolt them on, just to tear them off or bend them someday.

Had another thought, just brainstorming here, mount a thin gauge 4" square tube just above and behind the factory bumper. Use it for storing the slinky or canopy poles and mount the BALs under it so that they are more or less flush with the bottom of the factory bumper/frame when stowed. This way you achieve maximum ground clearance and stability at the same time.

My thoughts too, I placed them as far forward as possible and still clear the gray tank. This puts the support in the sweet spot. You can still sit all the way against the rear window with solid stability. On my 13 it feels like the trailer is on a foundation. Plus the placement eliminates the need to carry a jack.

I have installed this type of jack, front and rear, on a Scamp16 for a friend who was a bit shakey on her feet and sensitive to minor trailer movement. She loved them.
The rear was a beam, the fronts had to be separates...

[grolympia]

being cheap and not into long projects, I visited harbor freight and purchased 2 trailer tongue jacks (less than $50 total) and 8 extra long bolts and attached them to the rear bumper of our Casita.

Note careful to make sure the clamps were on both sides of the frame member supporting the bumper.

The jacks swing parallel to the bumper enroute and lock down while in camp.

don't have to get down on my hands and 70 year-old knees, our casita has a tripod stance for stability.

[Mr Lynn]

Originally Posted by grolympia

being cheap and not into long projects, I visited harbor freight and purchased 2 trailer tongue jacks (less than $50 total) and 8 extra long bolts and attached them to the rear bumper of our Casita. . .

Hey Gary, got a link? The only ones I see are actually for the tongue, and don't swivel up.

/Mr Lynn