Couple of years ago I found an ad on Craigslist (from a semi-local RV Dealer) for a set of 4, BAL crankdown stabilizer 'jacks' for a lightweight trailer. Ad said they wanted $25 for all 4. Figured for sure it must be a misprint as these things sell for upwards of $60-70 a pair in the box. I called the dealer (about 35-40 minutes away) & she confirmed that was the correct price for all 4 jacks; that each already had installed, one of the round, 6" steel basepads which is usually an extra cost option, & they'd came off a brand new pop-up trailer that the new owner wanted some kind of 'power' jacks. I've never liked the Atwood type, 'swing down' stabilizers, & I was then working on (still working
) an '84
Scamp 13 that some PO had welded auto 'scissors' jacks to the rear bumper that I for sure wanted to change out. Also had on hand a brand new, in the box, pair of BAL stabilizers that I'd bought when JC Whitney had a big sale & free shipping. Anyway, when we bought our 2001 17SD in January this year I began planning how I'd add the BAL stabilizers to replace the existing Atwood type jacks. For the past 2 days I've been crawling around under the rear of my
Casita, measuring & 'eyeballing' the chassis
. My main problem was the difference in height between the outer frame rail & the lighter, smaller steel angle where the rear of the BAL would have to rest. I knew from experience in building my teardrop trailer that the bracket at rear of the BAL did not require a great deal of strength, just something to provide stability & support. I considered using heavy duty 1/8" thick aluminum angle but just couldn't get 'comfortable' with it
. I looked around the place & found a piece of 1/8" thick steel 'C' channel with 3 1/4" web & just over 2" walls. Cut a couple of 2 1/2" long pieces from that & 'lopped' off one wall & a 'smidge' of the web; ended up with a couple of 'L' brackets 2 1/2" X 3 1/16" X 2" which would set the rear of the BAL jacks level with the bottom of the side rail 'C' channel. Clamped, marked, & drilled the brackets, & then did the same for the trailer chassis (broke 2 hi-speed steel bits while drilling 'pilot' holes for the actual size [5/16"] holes) but that was of small matter. I tell ya, it ain't as much fun doing that kind of stuff at 75 as it was at 55
. Got 'em installed & they work great, much easier on my old bones than wrestling with the Atwood jacks. Still haven't removed the Atwoods but that'll come later. May use an alternate method & just drill out the hinge pin & leave the base of the Atwoods, unless someone wants 'em bad enough to figure out a way to cut 'em off. In that case, they can have 'em gratis as long as they don't cut/scar up the trailer chassis too badly. I still hafta un-mount the 'new' BALs & prime/paint the new brackets, & various other scratches/dings the
Casita chassis has acquired over 14 years. I think when I add the other BALs to the front of the
Casita, I'll just mount 'em on a strip of 3-4" wide steel strap & bolt that to the trailer chassis about where the tongue emerges from underneath the trailer. There's no 'center' angle piece(s) between the side rails in that area. Meanwhile the 2 BALs at the rear along with the tongue jack should do fine; in fact I may never actually get around to adding the front jacks... The BALs do appear to be hanging a little low but I was careful to check the 'angle of departure line' from the bottom of the tire to the rear bumper, & they actually have a little more clearance than the Atwoods.
A few pix of my 'redneck' engineering job -