Adding catalytic heater - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-25-2019, 08:59 PM   #21
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Name: K C
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If you want to bring in fresh air but keep out the rain you can adapt one of the vents in this link to being a screened thru hull vent. Put it on the lower half so that the angle of the fiberglass shell makes it self draining to the outside should rain water try to blow inside. You can use some stiff wired to create a long hook handle for adjusting how far open or closed the louvers are. There are a lot of fittings in the marine business that can be adapted for use in travel trailers to create louvered fresh air intakes. As I had to need to have some controlled fresh air that kept the rain out without opening a window I did quite a lot of looking at local marine supply stores to see what possibilities there were for adapting marine fittings. My waterfront neighborhood in Seattle has a LOT of marine supply stores so it was easy to look at things in person. This was one of the fitting I thought has real potential for an adjustable fresh air intake that would keep the rain out.







Webasto 1320207A High temperature 60mm threaded White Grille



https://www.suremarineservice.com/He.../1320207A.html
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
............................

If we want to extend our camping season we will have to upgrade to a Bigfoot trailer .

I wanted to use our Escape this year during hunting season but with below zero temps predicted , I couldn’t afford the propane plus I have little faith in the furnace .
And that's why we have the Martin to backup the furnace, and the Buddy as a backup, backup.

Hate to break this to you, but our Bigfoot was on it's third furnace (two previous owners both replaced it), our Scamp furnace quit working once, but repaired, and our Jayco 5th wheel furnace also failed and was replaced. Don't know of a single camper that has a truly reliable furnace. We like to camp without hookups, so an electric furnace is not the answer either.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 11-27-2019, 12:13 AM   #23
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 17 Bigfoot CB
British Columbia
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
Get the heater. Mount the bracket you have in mind. Then measure the surface temperature of the bracket when the heater is running. That will tell you if it gets hot enough to spin the fan on one of the thermoelectric (stirling engine) fans.



Just realize that they do not move a lot of air, very low cubic feet per minute so while it does push some air around it is not even close to being able to move air the way an electric fan can. You can hold your hand in font of one of those fans and not feel all that much air movement.



I have one, it was a gift from a friend who had it on the gas fireplace at his coffee shop. He was closing his shop and I had asked for it planning to purchase it but he said he got it as a gift so he was just passing it on as a gift. I plan to try it out on my Nordic DT diesel fueled ceramic cooktop/heater just to see if it will spin. It should, others have reported it works.
I was wondering how much air they moved. Will need to test one somewhere. I was happy with the computer fan at .17amp draw, and it was quiet enough. Totally silent with zero power usage is the ideal if it is possible. Based on my test some air movement helped reduce the Humidity caused by the propane catalytic process.
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Old 11-27-2019, 12:15 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
If you want to bring in fresh air but keep out the rain you can adapt one of the vents in this link to being a screened thru hull vent. Put it on the lower half so that the angle of the fiberglass shell makes it self draining to the outside should rain water try to blow inside. You can use some stiff wired to create a long hook handle for adjusting how far open or closed the louvers are. There are a lot of fittings in the marine business that can be adapted for use in travel trailers to create louvered fresh air intakes. As I had to need to have some controlled fresh air that kept the rain out without opening a window I did quite a lot of looking at local marine supply stores to see what possibilities there were for adapting marine fittings. My waterfront neighborhood in Seattle has a LOT of marine supply stores so it was easy to look at things in person. This was one of the fitting I thought has real potential for an adjustable fresh air intake that would keep the rain out.
Good suggestion! May also need a screen to keep critters out. Will have a look at my local marine supply.
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Old 11-30-2019, 11:56 AM   #25
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Trailer: Boler 1300
Alberta
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Lots of condensation

I just added in a catalytic heater inside my Boler and it works ok to heat but it creates a lot of condensation in all the windows and surfaces. For this reason I am going to remove it and replace it with a regular propane vented fan forced RV furnace. I should have done it right in the first place. I do have solar panels on the roof as well so power is no problem. Just my thoughts. Do it right in the first place.
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Old 11-30-2019, 01:37 PM   #26
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I just added in a catalytic heater inside my Boler and it works ok to heat but it creates a lot of condensation in all the windows and surfaces. For this reason I am going to remove it and replace it with a regular propane vented fan forced RV furnace. I should have done it right in the first place. I do have solar panels on the roof as well so power is no problem. Just my thoughts. Do it right in the first place.
Did you try using a quiet computer case fan for some low volume air movement? As soon as I turned one on the relative humidity inside started dropping based on measurement, while the outside humidity increased.
As I already have the oem rv propane furnace, I wasnt going to remove it, but it is quite loud.
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Old 11-30-2019, 07:44 PM   #27
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I have a nice Max Fan ceiling fan. I will try using it on recirculate when I next try the catalytic heater. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 12-01-2019, 07:35 AM   #28
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A good source of fresh air already installed in your camper is your vent hood. Just open your outside flap and you should be fine, without bugs or fan or drilling another hole indoor camper. A clothespin will keep it open on most vents....
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:38 AM   #29
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I won’t be camping in the cold this winter, but am delighted to read these various thoughts on heaters in enclosed spaces. Last year our power went out for about 5 days after a snowpocalypse uncharacteristic for our location; we live in town and this almost never happens. No wood stove in this house, but we hovered near the gas fireplace during the day and under down at night.

I haven’t yet purchased any portable heat for the 1989 Lil Bigfoot (amazingly, the furnace still works but the switch to light it is a pain), but if we had such an animal it might have helped us in the house — if I were comfortable about how much ventilation we needed to be safe. I've been meaning to come here and ask advice about this. I hope this question would not be hijacking the thread?

We have the most beautiful vintage kerosene heater with a glass enclosure for the flame. Hubby occasionally used it in the garage, and we loved lighting it on the patio at night — light plus warmth. Using the family room as an example, about 14 x 22 with a patio door and an attached bath with a window I wonder how much ventilation I would need to safely use that heater in that room during another power outage?

Of course it does not have a thermostat, but you can adjust the flame high or low using a little knob (like a kerosene lantern). I realize that the main answer would be to rely on the carbon monoxide monitor, which i can do, but would like to hear some thoughts on using this if anyone cares to comment. I’d also like to know if this would be safe in my LB...? With windows cracked? The heater is one of these: https://images.app.goo.gl/eeKUE1dmVsYe3JNq5

Thank you in advance for any advice!
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Old 12-14-2019, 12:38 PM   #30
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Well, I guess I DID hijack the thread
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Old 01-16-2020, 08:43 AM   #31
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Name: Gerry
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We now carry a Direct Vent Fireplace www.finishedbiz.ca/marketplace
Dickinson Marine Propane Fireplace. Safe. 25% off until Jan 30.
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Old 01-16-2020, 11:24 AM   #32
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Dickinson

Ive looked at those, nice units, but they still need 12 volts for the fan, and the original goal was to eliminate that.
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Old 01-16-2020, 01:47 PM   #33
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I see! That's serious outback camping. No battery? Get a solar panel?
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:49 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by lilcamperpainter View Post
I see! That's serious outback camping. No battery? Get a solar panel?
Got a good battery, just trying to use less of it. And the furnace fan cycling all night is disruptive.
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