Originally Posted by Bob & Jackie C
Would like to add front window to our 2012 SD. Any information on how to do it would be appreciated,
I wrote this mod up extensively on the Casita Forum many years ago, (back in 2008,) when my trailer was new. (Only a couple of months old then.) The one thing that bothered me about the trailer from the beginning was not being able to see anything up front without physically having to go outside to look. Now I can look out my front bathroom window and check on my tow rig or anything else going on up front without the need to step outside. I also converted the convenience light
over the propane
tanks to a three-way switch and added another three-way switch inside, so I can also turn on the front light
from inside at night to light
up the area in front, and turn it on/off from out front as well.
Here's a "cut & paste" of my original post over on the Casita Forum regarding the window I installed.
And here's the specs and info on the window package I installed in my Casita.
Peninsula Glass Co. / Motion Windows
6005 N. E. 121st Avenue
Vancouver, WA 98682
WA. local call: 1-360-892-2029
Window Specifications, (Per order sheet.)
10"w X 6"h, Series 1600 single pane, rectangle, stationary, black anodized frame, solar
gray tint, 2 1/2" radius corners, 1 5/8" wall thickness.
Include Flange Sealant Tape per window, RV Type: Closed Cell Foam.
My price (in 2008) out the door incl. shipping was then $174.00, but it may have gone up a bit in the last few years.
Here's some links for them and the windows
Installation isn't hard, but it can be a bit daunting, making a big new hole in the front of your new egg. I found that by triangulating and measuring from several symmetrical points on the trailer shell and frame, that I was able to get it centered pretty well. Always step back and get a visual look at your "centering spot" to be sure that you are finally satisfied that it is centered where you want it "by eye" as well before you start cutting. (The old "measure twice and cut once" axiom.)
There are two "walls" that you will be going through, so once you pattern out your cut line, I would suggest cutting a smaller (say about 3" ) pilot hole in the middle of your proposed hole just to make sure everything is where you want it. I understand that they no longer have the mysterious capped rivet in the front wall (see my photo above, just to the right of the window), and there was also another one inside the bathroom. What I found is that they are close in proximity to each other, but it wasn't the same rivet, nor were they in any way connected to each other. There is also carpeting sandwiched between the outer shell wall and the inner shower enclosure wall. You will also find an air space separation between the two walls of approximately 1 1/2". There aren't any interferences or hidden utilities in the area, such as wiring, etc. As to the actual cutting, I would recommend a Roto-Zip tool. A jig saw probably would work, but the Roto-Zip sure makes it much easier and neater. Even though the window frame has a certain amount of "depth" I wanted to really seal it well (it is a shower after all), so I gooped the small gap between the two halves (from the shower side) with black marine grade flexible sealant (I used Sika-Flex which I got at West Marine). Always pre-fit both halves dry first to make sure that they will snug up with the trailer wall surfaces before applying the seam tape. Due to minor variations in production, the distances between the inner and outer walls may vary slightly from trailer to trailer. A good "check fit" will be necessary, and you may possibly need to grind a little bit of the inner spacer lip. I didn't have to with mine, but it could be slightly different in your case. Just be sure to make sure that both halves don't actually touch internally, or you wont get a good tight seal. (This is where the marine sealant will fill any gap left over after tightening the halves together).
The actual installation is with screws through the interior half of the frame into the exterior half. Oh, and did I forget to mention...you will definitely need two people to install this, one outside to push against it and hold it in place, and one to screw the inside half to it. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.