Alternative Decals

[Sitah]

I am in the process of removing the decals from my Casita--old and faded and new ones are way too spendy. You'd think Casita would give those away, since they are free advertising for them. Anyway...

I removed the "Casita" decal on the front and covered the slight ghosting with this decal I found on Etsy. It's the perfect size and looks pretty cool if I must say so. $24 from DBGraphixics on Etsy--free shipping.

[jerrybob]

Nice....good job. I agree......you'd think these trailer companies would want the free advertising. If you really want to have some fun.....put a Scamp decal on your Casita or vice versa......tell folks it was a special order.

[Bob in Missouri]

Another place for replacement graphics is on Ebay : rvgraphics4u


I personally have dealt with Walter and his graphics and service were great! He does have the factory Casita logo on his site.

[Casita Greg]

It wouldn't work for me. That's where my front porthole window is. And I don't like decals anyway. Every decal that came with my trailer was gone the first afternoon. I prefer the clean lines of the trailer without any decals.

[Pitterpatter94]

I agree with you. I am not a fan of decals. We just bought a new Casita and want to take off the Casita decals that are put on at the factory. Can you give me advice how to go about doing that? I want to do it while it is new. Thank you!

[JenPB]

Good job on your alternative!

The first thing I do when I buy a vehicle is take off the dealer's license plate holder that advertises their business. They don't pay me to advertise. However, when I picked up our Compact Jr. in 2008, we traveled with it for a couple years before I put decals on it, I suppose to give it some legitimacy. We had SO many questions: what is it; did you make it; is it a giant kitty litter box? The decal seemed to have cooled some of the did-you-make-it questions, and we still get a lot of attention, but it's manageable now.

I agree with you: manufacturers still in existence should give them away, or at least offer replacements inexpensively. It costs them next to nothing to make them in bulk, and us flying their flag only serves as free advertising for them.

[vintageracer]

Give Give Free Free. It's all about me!

Certainly this is a common thought in society today.

Apparently most of you have only drawn a paycheck in your working life and not made a payroll as a business owner.

The stickers are not FREE to you because they are not FREE to the manufacturer.

Each week that business owner has to make the payroll and that may mean the owner might not draw a paycheck that week due to unexpected expense and FREEBIE'S to customers.

Be glad that the stickers are available to you at all! Copyright infringement and Trademark infringement can be issues here stopping anyone from making and selling stickers to anyone but the manufacturer.

Pay the price for the stickers. Somebody else's paycheck depends on it.

It's NOT All About You!

[Bob & Jackie C]

Hi Greg,
Would like to add front window to our 2012 SD. Any information on how to do it would be appreciated,
BobC

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by Bob & Jackie C

Hi Greg,
Would like to add front window to our 2012 SD. Any information on how to do it would be appreciated,
BobC

Hi Bob,
I wrote this mod up extensively on the Casita Forum many years ago, (back in 2008,) when my trailer was new. (Only a couple of months old then.) The one thing that bothered me about the trailer from the beginning was not being able to see anything up front without physically having to go outside to look. Now I can look out my front bathroom window and check on my tow rig or anything else going on up front without the need to step outside. I also converted the convenience light over the propane tanks to a three-way switch and added another three-way switch inside, so I can also turn on the front light from inside at night to light up the area in front, and turn it on/off from out front as well.

Here's a "cut & paste" of my original post over on the Casita Forum regarding the window I installed.

And here's the specs and info on the window package I installed in my Casita.

Peninsula Glass Co. / Motion Windows Division

6005 N. E. 121st Avenue

Vancouver, WA 98682

1-800-468-4323

WA. local call: 1-360-892-2029

Fax: 1-360-213-1274

Window Specifications, (Per order sheet.)

10"w X 6"h, Series 1600 single pane, rectangle, stationary, black anodized frame, solar gray tint, 2 1/2" radius corners, 1 5/8" wall thickness.

Include Flange Sealant Tape per window, RV Type: Closed Cell Foam.

My price (in 2008) out the door incl. shipping was then $174.00, but it may have gone up a bit in the last few years.

Here's some links for them and the windows...

http://www.motionwindows.com/index.php

http://www.motionwindows.com/prod1600.php

http://www.motionwindows.com/measuring-guide.pdf


Installation isn't hard, but it can be a bit daunting, making a big new hole in the front of your new egg. I found that by triangulating and measuring from several symmetrical points on the trailer shell and frame, that I was able to get it centered pretty well. Always step back and get a visual look at your "centering spot" to be sure that you are finally satisfied that it is centered where you want it "by eye" as well before you start cutting. (The old "measure twice and cut once" axiom.)

There are two "walls" that you will be going through, so once you pattern out your cut line, I would suggest cutting a smaller (say about 3" ) pilot hole in the middle of your proposed hole just to make sure everything is where you want it. I understand that they no longer have the mysterious capped rivet in the front wall (see my photo above, just to the right of the window), and there was also another one inside the bathroom. What I found is that they are close in proximity to each other, but it wasn't the same rivet, nor were they in any way connected to each other. There is also carpeting sandwiched between the outer shell wall and the inner shower enclosure wall. You will also find an air space separation between the two walls of approximately 1 1/2". There aren't any interferences or hidden utilities in the area, such as wiring, etc. As to the actual cutting, I would recommend a Roto-Zip tool. A jig saw probably would work, but the Roto-Zip sure makes it much easier and neater. Even though the window frame has a certain amount of "depth" I wanted to really seal it well (it is a shower after all), so I gooped the small gap between the two halves (from the shower side) with black marine grade flexible sealant (I used Sika-Flex which I got at West Marine). Always pre-fit both halves dry first to make sure that they will snug up with the trailer wall surfaces before applying the seam tape. Due to minor variations in production, the distances between the inner and outer walls may vary slightly from trailer to trailer. A good "check fit" will be necessary, and you may possibly need to grind a little bit of the inner spacer lip. I didn't have to with mine, but it could be slightly different in your case. Just be sure to make sure that both halves don't actually touch internally, or you wont get a good tight seal. (This is where the marine sealant will fill any gap left over after tightening the halves together).

The actual installation is with screws through the interior half of the frame into the exterior half. Oh, and did I forget to mention...you will definitely need two people to install this, one outside to push against it and hold it in place, and one to screw the inside half to it. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

Greg

[jayoh999]

I found the best tool was the cheapest:
Ehdis 1.5-inch Plastic Razor Scraper with 10pcs Double Edged Plastic Blades for Removing Labels Stickers Decals on Glass Windows (Blue Color)



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You still must use a heat gun [on the middle setting] and in warm outside temps. I'm unsure if a hair drier would work with these plastic blades from "Jeff", aka Ammy. They are 36 years old on this '87 B-17 I am redoing.