Am I the only one who sees a problem here? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-20-2018, 03:17 PM   #1
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Unhappy Am I the only one who sees a problem here?

Attachment 116916Propex heater installed professionally at a RV repair place. Does anyone see a problem with this picture?

Note; the combustible air exhaust is the silver tube that is attached to the wooden underside of my Scamp 13 ft. and the black tube, attached to the frame, is the fresh air inlet.

Wouldn't it make more sense to attach the metal and very HOT tube to the metal frame and the fresh (cold) air intake to the wooden floor? Or, am I splitting hairs?

Sorry, the image is upside down. (Now fixed)


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Old 03-20-2018, 03:22 PM   #2
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Perhaps I should have posted in the problem solving thread....can an administrator move it over if needed?
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:25 PM   #3
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First thought is that the exhaust gas must be routed to the outside, and not allowed to come up through the floor.

Second thought is that the Propex install manual (which is online last I looked) is very specific on installation requirements so you could get the answer there I think. There are many requirements that must all be met at the same time for a proper install. The requirements were such that even after I studied on it for some time, I could not come up with a good way to put a Propex on my particular camper.

Here is one requirement for the model you might have... are the ends of the pipes far enough apart?

The combustion air pipe can be terminated underneath the vehicle making
sure the end of it is at least 0.5 metres away from the end of the exhaust and that they are not pointing directly at each other.
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:27 PM   #4
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I doubt the exhaust gets hot enough to ignite the wood, but it would be worth checking the manufacturer's installation manual for an opinion on that.
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:32 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
First I need to get my bearings on the photo..

First thought is that the exhaust gas must be routed to the outside, and not allowed to come up through the floor.

Second thought is that the Propex install manual (which is online last I looked) is very specific on installation requirements so you could get the answer there I think. There are many requirements that must all be met at the same time for a proper install. The requirements were such that even after I studied on it for some time, I could not come up with a good way to put a Propex on my particular camper.
The exhaust goes to the outside of the underside of the scamp from the hole in the floor and directly under the heater. Everything else looked pretty good, except for not caulking around any of the holes in my floor. I wish I had just installed it myself instead of paying so much money for someone else to do it.
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:01 PM   #6
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I wish I had just installed it myself instead of paying so much money for someone else to do it.
Many of us have also come to that conclusion.
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:44 PM   #7
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My concern is Carbon Monixide getting back into the camper.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:05 PM   #8
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The piping looks flexible so you should be able to move it to where you think it's safer.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:09 PM   #9
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Fixed the image. A lot easier for an OP to do first though.

I have installed a Propex myself. Quite easy to do.

I would definitely caulk that hole with a fire blocking caulk to seal it up. This was in the instructions I believe.

I screwed the exhaust to the fibreglass underside of the Trillium using metal straps with no issues. I should check to see if the paint is discoloured.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:27 PM   #10
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if you are worried about it being that close to the wood just put a one inch metal spacer beneath the clamp. That will be a sufficient distance to relieve any potential fire hazard. You can purchase metal spacers of different lengths and diameters in the individual hardware parts bins at any of the regular hardware stores such as Ace, True Value, etc. In airplanes we called them "standoffs", same kind of thing, essentially just a spacer that keeps the object being clamped to it standing away from the surface it was being fastened to.

So... a very easy adjustment costing a very small amount of money and time to do. You will also need to change to a longer faster so get that when you go shopping for the spacer.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:33 PM   #11
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When you put your fire blocking foam around the holes surrounding the tubes be sure you first put pieces of stainless steel pot scrubber material into the hole and then spray the foam. That pot scrubber material will prevent mice from clawing through the foam and it will also give the foam something to grip into. Easy does it on the foam, remember that it is going to expand. You can get the stainless steel pot scrubbers in grocery stores and in hardware stores.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:51 AM   #12
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K Corbin has a great idea - IFI. They sell rodent reaistat foam. Purchase it and the Stainless steel.
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:50 AM   #13
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K Corbin has a great idea - IFI. They sell rodent reaistat foam. Purchase it and the Stainless steel.
Huh, bet you wear a belt AND suspenders? Seriously, I had never thought of the stainless scrubbers and did not know about the rodent resistant foam, both great ideas.
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:14 PM   #14
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K Corbin has a great idea - IFI. They sell rodent reaistat foam. Purchase it and the Stainless steel.
Rodent foam sounds interesting but is not appropriate in this particular instance.

As stated in one of the other replies in this case because it is being put around a hot exhaust pipe the installation instructions require the use of fire fire blocking spray foam. Its available at hardware stores. The current building codes for homes and commercial buildings require it to be used at the electrical panel circuit boxes around the holes where wires enter and exit the box. That is why you can find it in hardware stores.
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Old 03-21-2018, 01:29 PM   #15
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Candiwoods, it is an expensive lesson. Camping 'shops' can't do it as well as yourself.
You can read, so if it comes with instructions, either in your hand or on line, you're all set. You have the ability to follow instructions...I assume you are married ...so that's a go and you can take your time and do it right as you see it !
And if there is ever a mistake made, you'll know specifically who is at fault. lol

As someone else mentioned, we've all come to realize we can do it just as well and usually better!

Mike
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Old 03-21-2018, 05:52 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Candiwoods View Post
Attachment 116916Propex heater installed professionally at a RV repair place. Does anyone see a problem with this picture?

Note; the combustible air exhaust is the silver tube that is attached to the wooden underside of my Scamp 13 ft. and the black tube, attached to the frame, is the fresh air inlet.

Wouldn't it make more sense to attach the metal and very HOT tube to the metal frame and the fresh (cold) air intake to the wooden floor? Or, am I splitting hairs?

Sorry, the image is upside down. (Now fixed)

Attachment 116922
ne thing you had better do is mouse proof the holes as they can get through 3/32nds and have no problem from a 1/4" and on up.
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Old 05-12-2018, 10:43 PM   #17
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How are you liking the propex heater?

Any interior pictures of the install to share?
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:35 PM   #18
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The exhaust pipe is supposed to be angled downward till it's end to prevent condensation buildup inside the tube and ultimately poor performance of the heater and rust.

It appears the where the tube is reattached to the floor it creates a low point in the tube where water will collect. The tube gets very hot. I wouldn't attach it to wood either.
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Old 07-15-2018, 10:47 PM   #19
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Huh, bet you wear a belt AND suspenders? Seriously, I had never thought of the stainless scrubbers and did not know about the rodent resistant foam, both great ideas.
At Duluth Trading Company you can get suspenders designed to hook to your belt.
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