An idea for poptop replacement...

[Bobbie Mayer]

I am thinking of just cutting out the old top where it isn't easy to remove, then attaching new fabric with Velcro. Plus: Easier to do. Also, I can make an all-screen top for warmer weather and one with flaps and windows for cooler weather. And I could store these in the trailer (not in place) and minimize the hassle of closing over a fabric layer.

It sounds do-able; I haven't looked closely at it yet to see if I can foresee any snags. But for those of who have worked with poptops, do you think this would work?

[CliveAlive]

Do it!

Seriously though; I don't have a pop-top and never have. But I did catch a couple of episodes of "Extreme RV" on the TV over the weekend and they featured the Cricket trailer. I think I recall somone posting about it on here before.

It's not FG. But the point is that they use a Velcro attachement system for their pop-top too. Here.

[Bob Miller]

I just removed the fabric from my 1973 Hunter Compact-II and the basic fabric cleaned up real well and, after almost 40 years, is still usable. (Let it lay on the lawn in the sun for a day before cleaning) I am having Riverside Tent & Awning sew in new screens and make new window flaps ($200) and will put it back in with new s.s. screws after painting is finished. The basic point is that what I have fits. I have seen several remade fabric sections and very few fit correctly, either to small and you can't get the top up, or to large and baggy.

[Bobbie Mayer]

Originally Posted by CliveAlive

Do it!

Seriously though; I don't have a pop-top and never have. But I did catch a couple of episodes of "Extreme RV" on the TV over the weekend and they featured the Cricket trailer. I think I recall somone posting about it on here before.

It's not FG. But the point is that they use a Velcro attachement system for their pop-top too. Here.

Wow, that Cricket is very well-thought out.

I couldn't find any info on the Velcro attachment, though.

[Bobbie Mayer]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

I just removed the fabric from my 1973 Hunter Compact-II and the basic fabric cleaned up real well and, after almost 40 years, is still usable. (Let it lay on the lawn in the sun for a day before cleaning) I am having Riverside Tent & Awning sew in new screens and make new window flaps ($200) and will put it back in with new s.s. screws after painting is finished. The basic point is that what I have fits. I have seen several remade fabric sections and very few fit correctly, either to small and you can't get the top up, or to large and baggy.

Hm, that might be true, but removing and replacing it in a Campster isn't easy. I'm not worried about making something that fits. But I'll keep that in mind as if I do have to remove it I might just be able to put in the new screens (windows are fine) myself.

[Bobbie Mayer]

I was googling ways to do this and ran across this
Pop top insulation | 1705.net

It has insulated panels for a pop top. If I go the velcro route, I could sub out screen for insulation in colder weather. Or have both.

[Bobbie Mayer]

I think I am going to go for it; I'll wait until I get the fabric to cut the old one out, then use sticky velcro on the frame and sew on on the fabric, and make new fabric sides. I'm thinking coated nylon or cordura fabric for the sides, with roll-up plastic windows over netting just as the originals, except I'm a bit worried about sewing that clear vinyl stuff.

[Thee Jimbo]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

I just removed the fabric from my 1973 Hunter Compact-II and the basic fabric cleaned up real well and, after almost 40 years, is still usable. (Let it lay on the lawn in the sun for a day before cleaning) I am having Riverside Tent & Awning sew in new screens and make new window flaps ($200) and will put it back in with new s.s. screws after painting is finished. The basic point is that what I have fits. I have seen several remade fabric sections and very few fit correctly, either to small and you can't get the top up, or to large and baggy.

Bob you made patterns right- when you had it out ; )

(The key to a good fit)

[Bob Miller]

No pattern, but what I can do is make an exact measurement drawing. It is symetrical and the only observeable difference top to bottom is a 3/8" tuck in the bottom that was put in at the factory.
The fabric seems easy to replicate, but where the holes go will be dependent on where they are drilled on your unit, plus mine as streached a tad over the last 40 yeas I am sure.

[Len Cater]

I own a Cadet which has a popup and I was replacing the material on the gap and put in screening to increase airflow and light. I initially used velcro and found that it quickly becomes contaminated with dead bugs and insects who are attracted by the light. In the end I used fabric tape, the kind that you iron the 2 sides together.
My thoughts.

[Tim 972]

Bob, will you be posting an exact measurement drawing as you previously mention in the near future? I am currently doing a complete frame off on a cj and it didn't have a poptop for me to use as a pattern

[Bobbie Mayer]

Compact II is different from Compact Jr.

Len, I'm confused as to what you did. Was it velcro to close the windows? I don't think bugs would get to the velcro on what I'm thinking of as it would always be attached.

I haven't done anything yet as I'm hoping to score an old tent at a garage sale and scavenge the fabric and netting.

[teri85]

Bobbie,

Go for it. I used velcro to attach the material to the top of the pop-top. You could use the velcro on the bottom too. I used nylon that would be used on tent floors, waterproof and doubled it.

Just make sure that the bottom is a little bigger at the perimeter than the top. Your plan should work if the wood for the mechanism is good. That would be the only catch.

Recheck the posts I did on my pop top.

My trailer is at a friends as we have had our drive way redone.

Teri

[Bobbie Mayer]

The wood is good. Why make the bottom bigger than the top? Is it that the frame is smaller at the top? I guess I will have to measure anyway.

[teri85]

The top is mounted on the inside of the frame and the bottom goes outside of the fiberglass on the wood which is outside. So there is a slight angle. Hope that makes sense.

I had to expand mine on the outside a few inches to be able to staple to the frame comfortably.

[Bobbie Mayer]

Oh, I see. But I'll probably put the velcro on the inside for both. Still, the inside top is smaller, I think, since it sits inside the outside wood rim, doesn't it?

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by teri85

The top is mounted on the inside of the frame and the bottom goes outside of the fiberglass on the wood which is outside. So there is a slight angle. Hope that makes sense.

I had to expand mine on the outside a few inches to be able to staple to the frame comfortably.

Just adding a correction to this information as I recently replaced the fabric on my Campster pop up top and I did the job myself carefully taking measurements from the frame. The measurement for the fabric length around the to and the bottom is exactly the same. What you are not accounting for is that at both top and bottom the fabric is attached to the wood frame and those frames are a matching pair as far as the inside length around the perimeter goes.

It is important to note that if you still have the original pop up fabric you should not make your fabric an exact match to that upper and lower measurement as over time that vinyl material will have shrunk. So what will happen if you take your measurements from the old pieces is that your new part is going to be too small to fit properly. Instead measure the actual dimensions needed for the perimeter lengths of the sections from the wood frame and do not take it from the old original yellow vinyl material.

[theresa p]

Hi Bobbie---a number of years ago I replaced the canvas on an old tent trailer (pop-up).

I used velcro and it worked extremely well. Probably better than the original because there was that small degree of adjustment allowed by virture of the width of the velcro.

I used the velcro with sticky back but not the "cheap" stuff---the REAL velcro has a superior adhesion. And Velcro glue can also be used, if needed.

The original makers of your trailer, IMHO, would have definitely used Velcro if it had been available to them at that time.....in this application, it is the perfect solution.

And scoring a tent at a yard sale and re-purposing it is a great idea. You might also consider looking for the panels from gazebos that have been blown over/damaged by wind....those are a-plenty and the panels and screening are usually stronger canvas-style material.

But don't fret sewing the vinyl! It is easy. Just edge it in either bias tape or a similar product and it sews readily on your machine. A good hint, if you find the actual vinyl sticks on the surface of your throatplate is to place it between sheets of tissue paper and it'll slide easily.

Good luck and don't forget to show us your finished product!!

[Bobbie Mayer]

Originally Posted by theresa p

Hi Bobbie---a number of years ago I replaced the canvas on an old tent trailer (pop-up).


Good luck and don't forget to show us your finished product!!

Long since done- this post is 4 1/2 years old!

I will give a few caveats to anyone else. I did eventually staple down the velcro as it started pulling loose from both wood and fiberglass. You have to have something to make it pull to the inside as you lower it- the original had elastic embedded in the non-window portions; I just put a Bungee around the whole thing. (Someone else's idea that I stole.)

One nice benefit is very easy access to the poptop mechanism if you need it.

Never travel without the canvas in place (that's how I lost my top, I believe- the canvas makes the clamps have to stretch and therefore hold more tightly).