Baja Burrito Resto Mod - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 09-03-2018, 07:51 PM   #121
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Name: Tony
Trailer: Trillium & Burro
Posts: 28
Without digging too deep into the King Starboard specifics - how rigid is it and how would the bonding between the fiberglass shell & plastic work? The shell to floor bond would be key as thatís the only connection to secure it all together and keep it on the frame.

I looked at Coosa as an option but after talking with a local yacht repair facility, I went with their recommendation and picked up a couple sheets of 1/2Ē hydrotek BS-1088 marine grade plywood. Itís much more rigid than the coosa, much higher quality than the old rotted plywood I removed and Iíll be much more meticulous with the epoxy/fiberglass encapsulation and installation.

I figure if the old floor made it 36 years, the new one will outlast that (& probably me). Now just have to get back to it...

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Old 09-04-2018, 06:49 AM   #122
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 119
Floor Repair - Attaching the floor to the shell

When the Burros were originally made, the floor was not bonded to the fiberglass shell, just more or less encapsulated by the shell. The floor is the only thing that holds the shell to the frame.

In your renno, a lot depends on how you cut the floor out. I chose to cut the upper inner shell lip off, install the floor then bond the floor to the shell again by pouring fiberglass resin in the crack between the shell and the floor (similar to what Toeknee alludes to). Some people keep the upper and lower lip and stuff the flooring in between the two lips. If the fit is tight, I'm not sure you would have to bond the two, but I would figure out a way to do so if it were mine.

There is no real right or wrong way. That is part of the fun. However I think Toeknee's choice of materials and method is pretty fool proof and a good way to go.

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Old 09-06-2018, 05:11 AM   #123
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Name: Gary
Trailer: UHaul CT13
Posts: 270
You've done a great job on your camper! Congratulations, on the camping trip and "putting it into play". Really sharp picture, with the sun through the trees behind it.
"You'd care less what people think of you if you knew how seldom they did." E Roosevelt
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Old 09-06-2018, 05:44 AM   #124
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1971 Trailswest Campster
Posts: 2,912
Originally Posted by gablee88 View Post
First of all, this is coming from Jeff, Gabrielle's less attractive but more handy better half. She put me onto this thread since the Burro she brought home last weekend is going to need a new floor. It's going to need a lot things, but the floor will be the first project i'll have to tackle. Thanks for the details here, as it will help quite a bit as I get ready to do this, probably in the evenings throughout this week.

One thing i've noticed on ours is that there is damage at all four corners where the frame meets the outer shell. Just some glass work that i'll have to tackle, but that's part of life I guess.

Anyway, to the point of my post, I was wondering if there was any reason not to use marine King Starboard (think a 4'x8' cutting board) for floor material. I can get it in multiple sizes and thicknesses, but was wondering if there was a reason NOT to use it in stead of plywood in this application. It's not really that much more expensive than marine grade plywood, but will definitely not rot. One small catch is that it's not as rigid as plywood of the same thickness. I'm thinking the cross bars are close enough that this won't be that big of an issue, and I could always add additional cross bar supports to the frame if the floor does tend to sag a bit.

One more thought, question: Once I replace the floor, i'd like to be able to easily pull the shell again in the future. from what I can tell, the only thing holding the shell to the frame is the floor, but if I screw through the floor into the frame, then put floor covering over that (tile, linoleum, etc), i'm concerned i'd have to remove the floor covering in order to pull the screws. Any thoughts on getting around this? is there enough area under the seats and cabinets to put all of the connection points there, an not in the main floor area? I'm just trying to plan ahead. I know I don't want to get into a frame reno now as it's in OK shape, but probably will sometime in the future.

Starboard has its uses but as you realized it does need good structural support. When it gets hot it will become less ridged and can deform and stay bent after cooling down. Not too surprising, it is a somewhat soft plastic. Same stuff they use for cutting boards. Strong, but not so hard that it destroys the edges on good knives. So overall it is not a good substitute for plywood. Good stuff for making swim platforms off the stern of power boats! That is its primary use in my marine neighborhood. That and countertops for fish cleaning stations.

As to the floor covering. You could use a loose lay vinyl. That material is a higher quality flooring that typically has fiberglass in the backing layer. It is held in place with double sided tape but only around the perimeter edges. This makes it much easier to remove if needed. Being a premium vinyl flooring it typically has a thicker wear layer coating on the upper surface versus the glue down vinyl flooring. Go to one of the big flooring stores, you might get a good deal on a remnant piece.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:06 PM   #125
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
Posts: 269

Really appreciate this thread and the details of your work. The Burro I got will need a lot of the same work you put into yours. Floor being a big one. Looks like I'll have to pull the shell off the frame. Going to be a challenge as I have no space to work on it at home. It sits now at a storage place, covered for now for winter. When I do get to working on it, it'll be pretty limited too.

I know the frame needs wire brushed and repainted, at least. From what I can tell while looking under it, it doesn't seem TOO bad, but a better evaluation will come when it's out in daylight. I was already thinking to brace the interior and it looks like it worked out well for you. I'll have plenty of holes to patch up anyway. Since I bought the trailer, I've mainly just removed a bunch of stuff that will need replaced anyway or what I didn't need. WIll end up doing a full rewire while I'm at it.

Thanks for sharing your work. It'll help me out along the way.
1982 13' Burro
Burro Renovation
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Old 12-06-2018, 12:01 PM   #126
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Name: Billy Sharpstick
Trailer: Scamp 13 - 2005
Posts: 143
Floor material

I redid my Burro floor a while back. I considered marine or exterior plywood, but ended up using Advantec with vinyl plank on top. Advantec is a subfloor material that looks like chipboard but is cured with a completely waterproof resin of some sort. Totally waterproof.
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Old 06-01-2019, 09:22 AM   #127
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Name: Deb
Trailer: 1980 13 foot Burro owner, renovating
Posts: 1
I love this! I'm actually going to copy and use to help me to get to know the bones of my Burro...good humor
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:24 PM   #128
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Name: Randi
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 1
Burro restoration

Hey, can you please explain and take pics of how you ran your electric?
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:07 AM   #129
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
Posts: 119
Originally Posted by BearBurro View Post
Hey, can you please explain and take pics of how you ran your electric?
If I had to do over again, I would install a standard camper power center.

I chose to use a standard home breaker box and a car fuse box. My thoughts were that this would be a little more heavy duty, last longer and more reliable.

One thing I did do that I like is that I used heavy gauge outdoor wire for all my 12v wiring. It should hold up over time and resist possible wear from sharp edges and rubbing against fiberglass.

Sorry for the late reply. I rarely check this now that I finished my resto. Email me at if you need something. This goes for others who have questions about this resto. Good luck.

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brochure, burro, floor replacement, replacement window, tongue replacement, window seals

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