BAL tire leveler

[GeorgeR]

I think it's nice the refer is level........

I agree, my target is bubble in the middle as well. If I could use BAL lifter a bubble device would be the only measuring tool I would use. Unfortunately 21RB Bigfoot is at BAL’s weight limit and has two axles. Perhaps I could use 2 BALs but this could become cumbersome and I am not sure there is enough room for side by side BALs. Using blocks under tires was always hit and miss for me and I rarely hit a target in one attempt. With prior angle measurement I bull’s eye in one shot. I probably could use bubble as a gauge to estimate how much lift is going to be needed but I never master my eye calibration. I have seen folks with expertise of looking at a parking spot and predicting how many inches lift per side is needed but it I am not as good.

George.

[Bill K]

I just picked up a large shopping bag with handles at Gorden foods for $1.99.

When I got home I put the Bal, box and all in the bag and it worked out great.

Bill K

[Thane]

The screw can be greasy so I cover it with a piece of foam pipe insulation when storing the leveler. I've only used it once and it was fine. I'd like to figure out a way to mount on the tongue for storage.

[ddayton]

I agree with many – the BAL wheel leveler is a great thing to use. In order for it too work properly it is necessary to keep the screw mechanism well lubricated so yes, it can be messy to store and transport.
Since the screw mechanism is the messy part, I created a canister out of inexpensive PVC parts.




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Oh yes, another thing – in addition to a leveler it is a great wheel chock.

Don

[Bill K]

Thanks for the great idea Don, I will make one this week.

Bill K

I agree with many – the BAL wheel leveler is a great thing to use. In order for it too work properly it is necessary to keep the screw mechanism well lubricated so yes, it can be messy to store and transport.
Since the screw mechanism is the messy part, I created a canister out of inexpensive PVC parts.

Don

[ddayton]

My side-to-side leveling process is:
Before entering the site, we "walk" it to locate the hookups, spot any bad low/high spots and 'attack' trees. Having decided upon a probable location I point out to the PIC where I would like to have the rear bumper stop. This spot is normally about one foot beyond where I would like to setup. Then, while backing in (or pulling in) I watch the large bubble level mounted on the belly band of the egg.



When the PIC signals that the back bumper is in position, depending upon the information from the large bubble level, I may pull or push the egg a bit to get a 'best starting level' position. Then a signal to the PIC and she puts 'her' block (a short board) in front/back of the low side wheel and I pull/push the egg onto the board. The PIC chocks the high side wheel while I put the truck in park, set the parking brake and turn off the ignition.



I get the BAL leveler, place it around the low side wheel. Using a cordless drill and guided by the small bubble levels mounted in each wheel well, level, and/or chock, the low side. Often the PICs block is all that is necessary to level the trailer and the BAL level ends up being used as a chock. But when needed, the BAL level is a great solution.


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On an average day it takes about 4 min for the walk, site enter and side-to-side leveling thing.

Don

[Time K]

I think what happened with the welder is that in jacking up the frame he flexed it enough to make it straight, but did not go beyond the yield point, the result being frame would return to its bent shape when the jacks were taken away. The sister bar wasn't strong enough to resist the frame's memory of the bend, so it bent to conform to the frame.

It's real hard to take out a bend like that because it's nearly impossible to subject the frame to a sufficient force against gravity and the stiffening effect of the trailer's body to go past the yield point in a calibrated manner. You want to only go far enough to take out the kink, not so much as to put in a reverse kink, and not so little as to have no significant effect.

If it makes you feel any better, Steve Lang's Fiber Stream also had a bend in the same place. Perhaps it wasn't quite as bad but it certainly was noticeable.

Dana, Frederick - your discussion is surely good food for thought for anyone that considers mounting weight that extends beyond the frame fore or aft on any trailer. I've learned two things today:

1. The BAL leveler - didn't even know they existed until today. I might just pick one up!
2. Frederick, your story illustrates the complexity of repairing a problem and the law of unexpected consequences when loading or modifying a trailer beyond it's original design. Dana<<I believe it is much more likely that the yield point was exceeded by a combination of weight and vertical acceleration -- in other words, a weighty tail and a very sharp jolt that probably bottomed out the springs.>>

Thanks to both of you for your sharing your experience and your knowledge.

[Frederick L. Simson]

2. Frederick, your story illustrates the complexity of repairing a problem and the law of unexpected consequences when loading or modifying a trailer [b]beyond it's original design.

Unfortunately, the combination of the lightweight frame and the placement of the Black and Gray holding tanks cantilevered behind the rear axle ARE the original design of the Fiber Stream. I have come to the conclusion that I must empty the tanks before towing for any significant distance for there is no telling how bad even freeway pavement is.

I'm sorry for hijacking this leveler thread with my woes; but I was responding to the use of stabilizers to level; which I believe to be an uninformed practice. You can't always expect your trailer frame to be over-engineered to be completely rigid.

[Roy in TO]

Not a hijack at all Frederick. Your comments confirm that my frame also torques using the stabilizer jacks. All the more reason to get a BAL leveller.

[Raya]

I have only one question. What the heck is "imitation nylon?"