Battery/solar panel disconnect - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:44 AM   #1
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Name: Carl
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Battery/solar panel disconnect

I found this switch a few weeks ago and thought it might be a good low cost battery disconnect switch. There are various current ratings and pole counts available. I purchased the 2 pole double throw version rated at 63 amps, part number HK2-63A, cost on amazon $14.00. The switch material is not magnetic and looks like copper coated brass. Overall it is very good quality. I will use it to isolate the battery and the solar panel from the charge controller. Because the battery must be connected prior to connecting the solar panel, I modified one of the switch contacts, as shown in the pictures so that, as the switch closes, the battery contact closes before the solar panel contact closes (late make). I used my dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the contact area back and bevel the edge. To remove the cover you have to remove the label on top of the switch then remove 2 screws. I also removed the little circuit board in the handle, which contains a couple LEDs, because I don’t need it and it is a connection between the two poles. If a dedicated solar panel disconnect is desired, wire the late make contact in series with the second switch.
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Old 04-29-2020, 11:11 AM   #2
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... I purchased the 2 pole double throw version rated at 63 amps, part number HK2-63A, ...
Of course its no longer rated for 63 amps since you reduced the contact area. The new rating is likely OK but it is an unknown value.

But more important is the delay time.. looks like using this modified switch closure it would normally be a small fraction of a second. My Renogy Wanderer also requires the battery be connected first so it can power-up, and the power up takes about 2-3 full seconds. I dont connect the panel until the controller shows the battery voltage and starts to cycle through the displays. Renogy does not specify how long the controller needs to be powered up before connecting the solar panel, but I would guess they would assume everyone would take at least 4-5 seconds.

Also remember that you should cover the panel when connecting or disconnecting wires or flipping switches so that there is no arcing. Repeated arcing will degrade the contacts.
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Old 04-29-2020, 02:09 PM   #3
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Thanks for the comment Gordon. I have 2 switches, a 2 pole for the battery/solar panel and one for the solar panel. The solar panel connections are in series. This configuration may be overkill but I do it for idiot proofing. I have a renogy rover in my camper and will be installing an epever in my cottage solar system with series connected panels. Both require battery first connections and as you stated, the solar manufactures don't specify any time information, so I assume a few milliseconds is adequate. My guess regarding the connection order is that it has something to do with the internal power supplies, it would be interesting to know for sure.

Regarding the reduced cross sectional area of the switch blade, you are correct the ampacity will be reduced somewhat, however, it is on the solar panel side which is only about 6-7 amps max.

Regarding the arcing. The panels don't arc nearly as much as the battery connection. I have the epever 40 amp version and it must have a lot of input capacitance because it makes quite a snap when connecting the battery! The switch does have a cover so I am not to concerned about it.
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Old 04-29-2020, 02:18 PM   #4
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.. the solar manufactures don't specify any time information, so I assume a few milliseconds is adequate. My guess regarding the connection order is that it has something to do with the internal power supplies, it would be interesting to know for sure. ..
Sounds like a call to the manufacturer might be in order.. unless they are in China.

My Renogy controller is a 12/24 VDC one.. and it takes it a few seconds to to get a 12 volt reading and go to that mode. Now if I connect the solar panel before the controller knows what voltage the system is, and the panel can be as high as 21 volts, I wonder what would happen. Think I will just wait five seconds before connecting the solar and leave it as an unanswered question.
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Old 04-29-2020, 05:23 PM   #5
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You would probably have to talk to the design engineer. Probably not gonna happen!
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:29 AM   #6
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The ability to switch both before & after the controller is a good idea. Many manufacturers state that the battery must be connected before the solar panel(s).

This obviously doesn't happen with a portable panel (with mounted controller). I called Renogy about the the 20 amp Voyager controller I purchased to replace a dead controller on my portable panel since the warning to connect to the batteries first was in the directions. Their answer was - "Don't worry about it". They are more concerned about high power systems working close to the controller capacity.

Still, in a permanent installation of rooftop panels that are not easy to unplug, a disconnect switch makes sense. I use a 30 amp marine circuit breaker for the 320 watts of solar on my roof. It also allows me to shut down the solar during long term storage (I have lithium batteries that do not require or recommend float or stand by charging when not being used).
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Old 05-01-2020, 07:15 PM   #7
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..
This obviously doesn't happen with a portable panel (with mounted controller). I called Renogy about the the 20 amp Voyager controller I purchased to replace a dead controller on my portable panel since the warning to connect to the batteries first was in the directions. Their answer was - "Don't worry about it". They are more concerned about high power systems working close to the controller capacity...
.
The response I got was:
The panels can be connected to the controller right after the batteries are connected. There should not be an issue as long as the batteries are on there first.
But I am not real comfortable with that answer. What if the panel(s) were connected one second after the battery? 1/10 second? One millisecond?

I asked for clarification but have not received it yet. I doubt they will be any more specific.

But at least Renogy does reply to customer questions.
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Old 05-02-2020, 12:07 AM   #8
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So how do the controllers built into the panels such as suitcase models work? Panel is hooked to controller with leads from there to battery so... thing puts out power to the leads without any battery attached. Just curios.


$14 for a main battery disconnect switch is a good price. The ones I have seen have all been over $20 and they didn't have a cover.

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Old 05-02-2020, 07:26 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
Still, in a permanent installation of rooftop panels that are not easy to unplug, a disconnect switch makes sense. I use a 30 amp marine circuit breaker for the 320 watts of solar on my roof. It also allows me to shut down the solar during long term storage (I have lithium batteries that do not require or recommend float or stand by charging when not being used).
Since the purpose of a fuse or breaker is to protect the wire couldn't you have just used a switch?
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Old 05-02-2020, 08:16 AM   #10
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Since the purpose of a fuse or breaker is to protect the wire couldn't you have just used a switch?
Yes.
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Old 05-07-2020, 11:11 PM   #11
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Another Switch

I have a 305 watt grid tie panel on my 4500 trillium and use 3 of these from Harbor Freight. One to disconnect the panel from the controller and one to disconnect the controller from the battery and one to disconnect the battery from the main power wire into the trailer power converter. They work well and are only $6.99 each.

I have them also on my Class A motor home with two 305 watt panels using the same wiring setup.

Also have on on my Daihatsu utility truck to disconnect the battery when not in use to keep any draw on the battery if it is going to sit for any length of time.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Batter...tch-63425.html
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