Maintenance & Restoration

Jackie · 11-22-2005, 12:08 AM

When I got my trailer, I found that the Ensolite was so old and brittle, it needed to be replaced. (I know some people have been able to caulk cracks and then paint over theirs. With mine, the merest touch caused more cracking and splitting). Part of the liner under the rear window was also constantly wet, from leaks unknown, and a large portion was missing under the window.

Jackie · 11-22-2005, 12:18 AM

In order to replace the ensolite, I first had to remove the cabinets, which meant removing the rivets. I found that most rivets will drill out with a 1/8" drill bit, but not all. Some require a size or two larger to keep then from just spinning and burring a large hole in the shell

. I also learned about the marine epoxy stick to repair those holes.

Once the cabinets were out, I began to remove the Ensolite, which is backed by a thin layer of foam insulation. Often, the Ensolite would seperate from the foam. I used a plastic putty knife to chip and peal the layers off the inside walls of the trailer. Once that was accomplised, I used a wire brush on all the walls to get any left-over foam off, so I would have a clean start. ( I also learned NOT to wear shorts and sit on the floor while working on this project...fiberglass is fiberglass, just like the fiberglass insulation blankets...and is VERY ITCHY!!!)

I was not able to remove the closet, as it is very securely attached at the Scamp door latch catch...so I loosened it at all other points and worked around that.

This is the rear of the trailer, minus bench seats.

Jackie · 11-22-2005, 12:26 AM

Through a post on this forum, I heard about a product called Microfoil and chose to use that rather than the rat fur currently being used in the trailers. I wanted more insulation, and did not relish having to glue twice - once for Reflectix (which I believe is less insulation than I have) and then the rat fur. The microfoil is a polypropylene foam, backed on one side with silver foil, and on the other with white foil. I glued the silver side to the fiberglass, using the Scamp glue. It was the biggest jigsaw puzzle I have ever done! The white foil is washable and is my 'wallpaper'. The seams were taped with Microfoil tape.

The front and rear windows were removed during this time also, so that new rubber seals could be installed . I used automotive headliner around the windows, as the Microfoil is too thick to fit under the seals. I also used the headliner between cabinets and walls for the same reason.

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Jackie · 11-22-2005, 12:30 AM

I decided to keep the electrical wiring out, rather than glueing it behind the 'walls' as Scamp does. Since the wires are nearly 30 years old, I wasn't sure how brittle they might be. I wanted to be able to work on them easier if the need arose. I placed thm in the corregated tubing to keep the mess and tangle down.

I will show more complete finished walls as I post more of the restoration.

Chris Z · 11-22-2005, 07:31 AM

" I also learned about the marine epoxy stick to repair those holes."
Jackie---
I learn something new here everyday. I never heard of these epoxy sticks before.
My wife was complaining about the PVC pipe that holds the sewer slinky on the front of my Scamp. Nothing wrong with it except it had changed to yellow from the sunlight. I was thinking about mounting a tube under the rear bumper but wonderd what I would do with the holes in the fiberglass that would remain. Would this stuff work to fill the 4 holes on the outside. Does it match the white fairly well? Also, is it easy to use? Any recommended purchasing places?

Maybe locally, I never asked about it. Thanks
As I type this, I wonderd if holes went all the way thru to the front bath. Use it here too?

**Mary F** · 11-22-2005, 08:53 AM

>>My wife was complaining about the PVC pipe that holds the sewer slinky on the front of my Scamp. Nothing wrong with it except it had changed to yellow from the sunlight.

Why not just paint it? (I'm thinking of doing that to mine.)

Chris Z · 11-22-2005, 09:19 AM

Mary F
I am concerned that I would have a hard time with adhesion of paint especially on the end caps and threads and it would look REAL bad after awhile.

Mike Watters · 11-22-2005, 10:05 AM

Why not try one of the new plastic paints on the market? I tried them for the first time just last month working on my son's Halloween costume. I was really impressed by how well it works. After I sprayed it on a test piece - there was NOTHING I could do to make it flake off (including some very serious bending of the test hunk of plastic). It's very thin - more like a dye than a 'paint'.

In use (as a costume) the paint would scratch off in places (like where it rubbed together) - but nothing that shocked me.

If you hit the PVC with their 'white' paint - it would get rid of that yellow. Anywhere it scratched - it would just show through slightly yellowed anyway - not very noticable. If you were trying to paint it dark red it might be different - but white would be very forgiving.

mkw